January has arrived. Every time this month comes, I have to take my wife to Chiang Mai. This year is no different, even though we have moved from Bangkok to Korat. The bus ride is just as fast as when we lived in the capital.
My go-to method for exploring Chiang Mai is always the same, no matter where I'm headed: renting a motorbike. I take the bus to the Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Terminal, and from there, I walk straight to the motorbike rental shops near the Grand Diamond Hotel. There are many shops now, but I have a regular one called BIKKY. They have both manual and automatic transmissions, new and old bikes, starting at 200 baht per day with no deposit. I've rented from them many times, the longest being ten days at a stretch, and I've never had any problems with the condition of the bikes or returning them. They've never deducted anything from my deposit. They're open from 6 am to 9 pm, and now they even offer delivery to the airport or train station.
This trip, I traveled from Korat at midnight on January 12th and arrived in Chiang Mai in the morning of the next day. I returned on the evening of January 17th. The goal was to visit Doi Inthanon again. Riding a motorcycle from Chiang Mai city is not difficult. You can go up through Chom Thong district or Mae Wang district. Any type of car can go up. This time, I chose to rent a Yamaha Grand Filano because it is convenient, has a lot of storage space, and you don't have to open the seat to refuel. It costs 300 baht per day, which is a bit expensive, but it's worth it for the comfort of riding with a passenger and carrying luggage.
I got the car and started my trip immediately. I planned to go up Inthanon through Chom Thong, down through Mae Wang district, and back to the city in a loop, a total distance of about 230 kilometers. And these are the various places on Inthanon that I visited and would like everyone to try visiting as well.
- 1 Mae Ya Waterfall -
Located within the Doi Inthanon National Park, even though it is not on the road up the mountain, when visiting Inthanon, if you don't come to Mae Ya Waterfall, it would be a shame. Because this is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in our country. It is about 15 km from Chom Thong district. There are signs along the way. This time I went up the mountain from the Chom Thong side, so I stopped here first. The road is good all the way, so you don't have to worry about driving.
After passing through the community and entering the national park, you will reach the fee collection point. The current rates are 50 baht for adults and 20 baht for motorcycles. If you have already paid the fee when descending from Kew Mae Pan or camping on Doi Inthanon, you do not need to pay again. You only need to pay once for the same national park.
From the checkpoint, it is another 6 km to the parking lot. Walk for about half a kilometer to reach the waterfall. Feel free to sing "Oh" with the magnificence. Here, there is water all year round, more or less depending on the season. If you have the chance, try visiting at the end of the rainy season.
- 2 Mae Klang Waterfall -
The first checkpoint on the way up to Doi Inthanon from Chom Thong district. If you want to rent a yellow car to tour the mountain, you can easily find one near the Mae Klang Waterfall Temple. Hitchhikers also tend to wait for rides from this point. As for me, I came on a motorbike, so I didn't have to worry about that. I just rode straight into the waterfall.
Mae Klang Waterfall is similar to Huay Kaew Waterfall at Doi Suthep in that it is located at the foot of the mountain and serves as a relaxation spot. There are many restaurants by the waterfall to choose from, and there are also places to swim. Thai people do not have to pay an entrance fee, only foreigners.
I took a quick photo of the top waterfall as a souvenir. It didn't take long to finish, so I moved on.
- 3 Upstream Management Units of Mae Khlang River -
After leaving Mae Klang Waterfall, I continued driving up to Khun Klang Village, the park headquarters. I wanted to arrange my tent before nightfall. The park's usual campsite is located in the pine forest of Ban Khun Klang, just a few hundred meters from the headquarters. I stayed there for several nights last year, and I plan to do the same this year.
Upon arriving at the office, the staff's response left me speechless for a moment. "The campsite at the park is currently closed for road repairs," they said.
Oh, how dare they do that! In the middle of January, when people are coming to enjoy the cold weather and see the blooming tiger lilies, the park authorities closed the camping ground. You have to be really smart to pull that off. (I'm still fuming, haha...) The renovation is scheduled to be completed by the end of February, but knowing how government projects go, it might drag on.
With the park's campground closed, I had to find somewhere else nearby. This wasn't difficult, as there were plenty of options in the area. There was a spot by Siriphum Waterfall, or the more famous and upscale Doi Chaung Ya. But in the end, I chose to camp at the Mae Klang Headwaters Management Unit, just a short distance from the park headquarters.
There is no camping fee here. You can put as much as you want in the box. There are small and large tents for rent, as well as duvets and other equipment. However, I do not recommend it for people who are particular about cleanliness, as the bathrooms and toilets are few and not very user-friendly. The place is not very beautiful either. To be honest, it's just a place to sleep.
Regarding fuel, Ban Khun Klang does not have a standard gas station, but there are three or four self-service pumps available. They offer gasoline, diesel, and gasohol.
- 4 Pork BBQ -
Camping at Inthanon, you have to sit and eat moo kratha. No one said it, I just said it myself (laughs...). There are many moo kratha restaurants at Baan Khun Klang. Most of the camping areas can order delivery. In the evening, when the weather is cold, you can sit around and eat moo kratha. The atmosphere is amazing, isn't it?
I rode my motorbike to a restaurant I used to frequent, "400 Baht Pork BBQ with a 4 Million Baht View," located next to Doi Chaua. The small set costs 400 Baht, which is the standard price here. Compared to the amount of food, it's considered expensive, but the joy and deliciousness lie in the atmosphere. We grilled, ate, and enjoyed the scenery together.
For those on a budget, there are many affordable options available. Local restaurants serving rice dishes, noodles, and dumplings can be found throughout Baan Khun Klang. Alternatively, you can visit the restaurant located at the park headquarters.
- 5 Kiw Mae Pan -
According to the news, there has been a frost phenomenon on Mount Inthanon for ten days in a row. Naturally, my wife and I were eager to experience the first frost. We woke up at 4:30 a.m. and braved the darkness and cold to drive up to Kew Mae Pan, a distance of about 15 km. However, what happened next left us speechless. The sky was overcast with thick white fog, the first day of the year 2016. In such weather, not only the frost, but even the sunrise or any view was impossible to see. The visibility was extremely poor.
Oh... On the way up, there is also a checkpoint. Those who come from Mae Wang side and have not paid the fee should pay according to the regulations. As for those who camp or have already paid from Mae Klang Waterfall checkpoint, just show the old card to the officer for inspection.
Since we're already here, we might as well fight on. After finding food at the entrance of Kiew Mae Pan, we started our nature study trail, which is 3.2 km long. Every trip here requires a local guide to lead the way for safety, nature conservation, and to generate income for the local villagers. This helps to encourage them to help preserve the forest in the area. The guide fee is only 200 baht per group of ten people, and you can group together as you please.
I'm ready, madam is ready, group members are ready, the guide is ready, let's go! The thick fog makes the forest at Kew Mae Pan look mysterious and intriguing.
The first kilometer will emerge at the ridge, which is a characteristic alpine meadow, the habitat of the gaur. Oh... what a beautiful view (sarcasm!). Visibility is zero. Standing twenty meters apart, you can hardly see each other. The view of Mae Chaem district, Pha Ngem Noi, you can't see anything. I feel sorry for the group members who came to walk with me. I flew a long way from Phuket to visit the north for the first time, but I didn't see any view. And I only stayed here for one night. See you next time, my friend.
We walked along the mountainside amidst the white color until we reached a viewpoint where we could see the two royal stupas. See, the two stupas are right in front of us!
After passing the mountain range, we cut back into the forest, until we looped back to the same path we came in on, completing the loop. On the bright side, the white mood of the Kew Mae Pan is refreshing and the air is good for the lungs.
- 6 Peaks and Ang Ka -
Kiw Mae Pan is not the highest point of Inthanon. You have to go up another 4 km. Most people come to the top of the mountain for two reasons. The first is to take a picture with the sign that says "I have reached the roof of Siam". The other reason is to walk the Ang Ka Nature Study Trail, which is like the headwaters of the various waterfalls of Inthanon.
The Ang Ka Trail is not difficult to walk and does not take much time. There is a good wooden bridge that goes around the forest, which is a unique ecosystem. Anyone who enters will feel like they are in a primeval forest. In fact, it is said that this place is most beautiful during the rainy season because it will be green and lush with the scent of mist. During the winter, the colors of the trees, moss, and various lichens are a bit pale yellow, but it is still a very interesting trail to visit.
- 7 Grilled Pork at the Three-Way Intersection -
Another one of my favorite restaurants in Doi Inthanon. I don't know the name of the restaurant, but I call it "Grilled Pork at the Three-Way Intersection" because it's located right at the three-way intersection of Ban Khun Wang. After coming down from the summit, I took my wife to eat grilled pork at this restaurant. I've been to many restaurants in Doi Inthanon that serve grilled pork and sticky rice, and I like this one the best. The dipping sauce is also delicious.
- 8 Royal Villas at Doi Pha Tang -
News has it that the rhododendrons are blooming late and not very beautifully this year. I noticed this as soon as I arrived at Inthanon. Along the roadside, both at Baan Khun Klang and the headquarters, the flowers were blooming sparsely. However, I still hoped to see beautiful pink rhododendrons at the Royal Palace on Doi Pha Tang. So, after finishing my grilled pork, I rode my motorbike straight there.
The ascent to Doi Pha Tang is not difficult. About a kilometer from the office, you will find a fork on the left. Turn there and drive another 8 km uphill to the ranger station and the royal palace, where Tiger's Claw trees are planted in dense rows. Along the way up, you will see many trees in full bloom, giving you hope that some of them will bloom on top as well.
However, when I arrived, I was speechless. As you can see in the picture, almost 100% of the trees only have branches and newly formed flower buds. The staff said that the flowers are blooming very late this year and it will probably be the end of the month before they are in full bloom. But since I was already there, I decided to take a walk around the area to see if I could find any trees that were already in bloom so I could take some pictures to comfort my heart.
- 9 Siriphum Waterfalls -
For those who visit Doi Inthanon, if you drive up to Doi Chang or come from Khun Wang, you will see a large waterfall cascading from a high cliff. That is Siriphum Waterfall. Ordinary tourists cannot go up there, but we can visit the bottom. The entrance to the waterfall is at Ban Khun Klang, near the Inthanon Royal Agricultural Station. There is a sign there. After I came down from Doi Pha Tang disappointed, I came to visit this waterfall instead.
The entrance fee is 20 baht. It is under the care of the Royal Project, which has developed the area into a semi-natural forest park. The park focuses on prominent fern species and offers a refreshing and pleasant atmosphere. After walking through the forest park for just a few hundred meters, you will reach the bottom of the waterfall. The sound of water falling from the cliff is loud and refreshing. This is the perfect place to end my day. I should hurry back and take a shower before I get too cold.
For those who want to stay in the area, there are houses available from the Royal Project. Or, at the entrance to the waterfall, there is a tent site. This is another good option.
- 10 Kiw Mae Pan (Round Two) -
Disappointed from the previous day, I had to try again. The alarm clock rang at 4:30 am, so I jumped up and got ready. I rode my motorbike up to Kiew Mae Pan again. Today, at the viewpoint at Km 42, the entrance to Kiew, the weather was clear and the sky was open, although there were still some clouds and fog floating in from the south.
After the sky was bright, we ate breakfast and got ready. Then we contacted the tour guide. This time, we requested a guide to take us in with only the two of us because we knew it would take a long time. We hurried to the viewpoint because the other parts were no different from yesterday. But as soon as we emerged from the forest, we had to swallow our saliva. The white fog was everywhere.
Okay, even though it looks better than yesterday, the fog is coming from the wind. I agreed with the guide that today we will wait until the sky is clear. While waiting, I can see a glimmer of hope. During the time when the fog is thin, I can see some of the view. So it's a wait with hope, not a wait in vain.
And after an hour or so, when the fog began to clear... Heaven appeared. Click the shutter, what else would you do?
The fog has cleared and the sky is so bright. The view from Kiew Mae Pan is always impressive, no matter how many times I see it. Anyone who decided to leave when the sky was white would not believe that an hour later the weather would change completely, like a different day. This is the reward for patience.
- 11 Wachirathan Waterfall -
Due to the leisurely time spent on the Mae Pan Giw (both waiting time and time spent walking and taking pictures), it was almost noon by the time we descended. We had to hurry a bit because there were still places we wanted to visit.
The place I wanted to go wasn't here, but because I planned to descend from Doi Inthanon via Mae Wang district, I wouldn't be coming back this way again. So I had to take some time to stop by Wachirathan Waterfall, which is located at Km 21. This is another large waterfall in Doi Inthanon that is definitely worth seeing. There are restaurants and cafes in the area that offer excellent service.
For beautiful photos, it's recommended to come in the morning. If you come in the afternoon, the waterfall will be in the shade and you'll have to shoot against the light, as in the photo you see. Since the photos weren't very good, I didn't stay long and moved on.
- 12 Pha Dok Siew Waterfall -
This is the main destination, Pha Dok Siew Waterfall, or some call it Rak Jang Waterfall, after the movie that used this location for filming. The reason we have to hurry is because we are afraid that it will be too late to visit. For this waterfall, we have to walk along the nature study trail, not the kind where you park and see it right away.
After inquiring about how to get there, I immediately headed to Baan Mae Klang Luang, Km 26, from Wachirathan Waterfall. Upon arrival, I went to Som Sak Coffee Shop, which serves as the community's tourist information center. I informed them that I was visiting Pha Dok Siew Waterfall, and they assigned me a local Palaung guide. The guide was licensed and trained by Doi Inthanon National Park. Similar to the Mae Pan Trail, we had to pay a guide fee of 200 baht per group of no more than ten people.
The nature trail cuts through a waterfall for about 3.5 km. The starting point is on the side of the road at about km 28 and the end point is back to the village at the coffee shop. There are two options for walking.
1. Take a car from the village to the starting point at the roadside. The trail is a 3.5 km descent, but there is an additional 200 baht charge for the car ride.
2. Hike from the village to the waterfall and then walk back down the same way. This option is free, but the trail is 5 km longer (2.5 km up and 2.5 km down).
I opted for the first option, willing to pay extra because it was getting late in the afternoon. More importantly, if I had to walk up and down, I'm sure I would have gotten a scolding from the missus (haha...).
It is important to note that the park prohibits entering the waterfall without a local guide. Please follow this rule strictly. There is no need to ask if you can hike on your own. I will not elaborate further on the rest. Enjoy the photos and see for yourself. I just want to say that the hike is not difficult, the waterfall is beautiful and refreshing. If you are in Inthanon, don't miss it.
- 13 Orchid Conservation Center of Paphiopedilum inthanon –
Okay, the last day, it's time to descend from Inthanon. I planned to go down through Mae Wang district, stopping by Khun Wang first. Along the way, I passed the Lady's Slipper Orchid Conservation Center, which is another popular spot for viewing tiger lilies, so I decided to stop by for a bit, even though I had heard that the flowers here had already bloomed to the point of excess and were waiting to wither.
There were quite a few people. The highlight was the reflection of the water, but as I mentioned, it was past its peak bloom. The flowers that were once pink were interspersed with red and green leaves, and the colors were not as vibrant. I only got what I saw.
- 14 Khun Wang -
After visiting the Lady's Slipper Orchid Center, we headed straight to Khun Wang, or its full name, the Royal Agricultural Research Center Chiang Mai (Khun Wang), one of the most popular spots for viewing the Queen's Flower in Chiang Mai. Located at the foot of Doi Inthanon but on the northern side, in Mae Wang district, it is about 17 kilometers from the park headquarters.
From the news, I knew that this year the tiger lilies at Khun Wang haven't bloomed yet. The famous tree tunnel is just branches. I wanted to get an update myself, so I had to come and see it. As you can see, the pink tigers are playing hard to get this year. But even so, the atmosphere is still excellent. There are corners to walk around and take small pictures, which is another kind of fun.
That's all for my trip to Doi Inthanon this time. Actually, I went back to the city, climbed Doi Suthep, and visited Khun Chang Kian for another day, but I won't talk about it anymore. I want to focus on the tourist attractions on Doi Inthanon, which, in addition to all the places I visited, also include Sirithan Waterfall, Inthanon Royal Agricultural Station, and various hill tribe villages. Unfortunately, due to limited time, I had to skip some places, which is a pity.
Let me reiterate that riding a motorcycle to Doi Inthanon is not that difficult. It can be done with either an automatic or manual transmission motorcycle. However, it is important that the rider is experienced and cautious when riding up and down the mountain. With these precautions, conquering the beauty of Doi Inthanon is within your reach.
If you're interested in reading other blog reviews I've written, want to chat casually, ask me questions (if I have the answers, of course), or invite me to travel, I'd be delighted to.
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Friday, September 27, 2024 9:55 AM