There were many opportunities in my life to go and pay my respects to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, but I never went. I thought that I was close to him and that there would be many more opportunities, and I finally went on October 14, 2016, which was the first and last time I paid my respects. There was also something else in my heart that I wanted to do to repay him.
And we were given another "opportunity" from JetradarTH and ReadmeTH to travel in the footsteps of the King. The lesson from the last time taught us that "Don't miss the opportunity to do good things." So our journey begins.
It was a tough decision to make. There were so many projects that His Majesty had undertaken and places he had visited. We finally settled on a destination that was convenient for us to travel to, had an interesting story, and could be reached without taking time off work or needing a private car. Our final destination was "Ban Nong Lom, Doi Inthanon".
Getting there
- For skilled motorbike riders, there are many motorbike rental shops in the Arcade area, which is convenient for those arriving by bus. However, if you are arriving by plane, shops like Bikky offer delivery services to the airport. It all depends on the number of customers. If there are not many customers, they can deliver the motorbike to the airport. It is recommended to book your motorbike in advance and arrive on time. During peak season, you may have to wait for your motorbike as this shop is very popular. Booking in advance is very convenient. Add them on Line: @Bikkychiangmai to make a booking. Another option is Facebook: Bikkychiangmai
- For those who do not want to ride a motorbike for a long distance, you can take a yellow songthaew from Chiang Mai Gate to Chom Thong. Get off at Wat Phra That Sri Chom Thong Worawihan. Opposite the temple, there is a motorbike rental shop. Facebook: Joe Bike Chom Thong
- If you cannot ride a motorbike, there are songthaews that go up Doi Inthanon from the front of Wat Phra That. This is suitable for groups of people due to the size of the vehicle and the cost.
Arriving at Chom Thong, I went to pay respects at Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong Worawihan. After a long time away from making merit, I discovered that I could still enter the temple.
We rode a motorcycle from Chiang Mai. Our butts and legs started to feel numb. Also, the rider started to feel sleepy because the weather was very good during the trip. So we looked for a coffee shop to satisfy our sweet tooth (not related to sleepiness or numbness at all).
Coffee Ngeggee (Coffee Ngeggee) is located opposite Wat Phra That Sri Chom Thong, in the alley next to Poon Sin Gold Shop. It offers a variety of drinks, snacks, and light meals. There are many seating areas to choose from, both inside and outside the shop, as well as inside the house. The restrooms are clean, and the drinks and snacks are reasonably priced. It's a great place to stop before heading up Doi Inthanon. We stopped by both on the way up and on the way back.
From Chom Thong to Nong Lom Village
***Before going up to Doi Inthanon, check your oil carefully because there are many places to visit on Doi Inthanon.***
Nong Lom Village is located on the way up to Doi Inthanon at kilometer 23. Look for the sign on the right-hand side of the road.
3.5 kilometers from the entrance is Nong Lom village. From Nong Lom village to Ban Pha Mon is another 3.5 kilometers. Both villages are places where King Rama IX frequently visited and worked with the people. The road to the village is paved, but some sections are still dirt roads that are convenient but bumpy. What about the road when King Rama IX visited more than 40 years ago? The road must have been much more difficult.
Tourism at Ban Nong Lom is "community-based tourism," meaning the community manages everything, and everyone in the village has ownership. Therefore, when you enter, you must respect and honor the rules and regulations set by the community, including the traditions, culture, and local people. We booked our accommodation with Mr. Oat (contact information will be provided at the end of the review). There is no camping area here, and they are not yet open as a homestay because the villagers' way of life requires peace and quiet. Therefore, there is only one accommodation for tourists in the village, the "Yadena" house. The name of the house sounds French, but in the Pga K'nyo language, it means "You & Me," which is lovely. The house is on a hill, so we didn't go anywhere else because it was tiring to walk up from the road. They only accept one group of tourists at a time, whether you come alone, with two people, or in a group of no more than six people. Therefore, the accommodation price depends on the number of people.
We are very excited about the homestay. We didn't expect such a beautiful place in a small village. It's a two-story house with two bedrooms upstairs and a spacious living room downstairs where you can relax and sleep comfortably.
The bathroom and shower are separate. If you turn the shower head correctly, there will be hot water to shower, which is hot water from solar energy. We went together, one person got to take a hot shower, one person got to take a cold shower, that person was me ^^
I love the hair dryer stand. I can use it to cut vegetables when I want to make Tom Yum soup. ^^
Let's take a look at the second floor... Looking out the window, you'll see a view like this.
The bedroom has 2 rooms and 3 beds, beautifully decorated with unique machinery. We were born in time to use all of these, whether it was a chicken coop, a winnowing basket, a fig tree, or a fish trap, before plastic containers replaced them. It makes me think of my grandmother's house in the old days.
The house has no fans because the weather is cool and comfortable all the time. There is no TV or Wifi, which allows us to fully immerse ourselves in the atmosphere and the people. As for our food, our brother Ji is the one who cooks it. The kitchen is next to the house. For the menu, we let brother Ji recommend what is delicious. Here, we eat a lot of vegetables because they are vegetables sent from the Royal Project. The fresh vegetables are delicious. The food that brother Ji cooks for the two of us is very generous and we finish everything every meal. ^^
For lunch, P'Jee cooked for two: stir-fried pork with chili, spicy soup, and stir-fried chayote (fuzzy melon, sweet gourd). I usually don't eat sweet peppers, but this dish was delicious! ^^
By four o'clock in the afternoon, the air here was already starting to cool down. We rode our motorbikes into the village to find a shop, taking the opportunity to explore the village as well. Before reaching the village, there was a vegetable plot covered with a plastic dome. We'll probably find out tomorrow what kind of vegetables are there. We saw rice terraces that had already passed the harvest season. If we came here during the rice-growing season, we would probably see green rice terraces. The villagers here seem happy. In the evening, children came out to play and have fun.
We returned for dinner again not long after the previous meal because P'Jee lives in another village and we didn't want to disturb him late at night. Another reason was that we had an appointment at the invitation of P'Sithi (Surasith Donjaiphraiwan), who is a farmer, tour guide, and local researcher, to talk at his house. Tonight, we will hear stories about King Rama IX's visit to Nong Lom and Pha Mon villages.
Today's lunch is all vegetables, no meat at all. Stir-fried mushrooms and broccoli. We didn't disappoint you, P'Jee, because it's all gone again. Staying here for many days, my body will definitely burst. Even though it's vegetables, eating a lot can make you fat. Look at the elephant.
Around 7 pm, we prepared to go to Ban Pha Mon at the invitation of P' Sit. The distance from Ban Nong Lom to Ban Pha Mon is only 3.5 kilometers, but it is 3.5 kilometers of complete darkness with no streetlights. The distance we could see was equal to the distance illuminated by the headlights of our motorcycle. It was very cold. There were times when we thought, "What are we doing here?" There was fear, but our curiosity was greater. We forgot to ask where P' Sit's house was, so we kept asking for directions. Our smiles must have shown the people here that we meant well.
Arriving at P' Sit's house, he was cooking and invited us to eat again. We said we had already eaten, but we didn't refuse. Haha. Today, P' Kai and his family also joined us. What we want when we travel is to sit and talk with the locals. This will give us more than just a trip. At least it's "friendship".
From the first coffee tree to the perfect cup of happiness
P'Sit told us that His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej visited Nong Lom Village in 1974. There were no roads at that time, so he had to walk. It was a time when Doi Inthanon was facing many problems, including political problems, environmental problems, and social problems. Many villagers were addicted to opium. P'Sit continued that when he was a child, life was very difficult. They only had one meal a day and one set of clothes. They didn't have any winter clothes. His Majesty came to see how the villagers were living. He asked Khun Ta Phayo (the village headman at that time), "How are you all doing here? Do you have enough rice to eat?" Khun Ta Phayo said that they didn't have enough and had to take on additional jobs. When His Majesty learned that there were coffee trees, he asked to be taken to see them. It took more than half an hour to walk there. There was only one coffee tree that His Majesty saw, and he ordered the villagers to plant coffee instead of opium.
The villagers offered coffee beans to the king to enjoy. But after 1 year, the coffee beans that the villagers offered returned as coffee trees for the villagers to plant.
Subsequently, various government projects have been implemented to develop and introduce different vegetables for the villagers to grow, providing them with a livelihood and improving their living standards. As a result, poverty and opium have disappeared.
During the rice shortage of 1976, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great established the Rice Bank. He contributed a portion of his own rice, and every household in the village participated by saving rice. Anyone could donate, and those who borrowed rice after the harvest season had to return it with a small amount of interest. For example, if someone borrowed 5 "pigs" of rice, they would have to return 6 "pigs" of rice.
From our conversation with Mr. Sitthi, we see the King's sustainable approach to problem-solving. From a village where there was not enough rice to eat, villagers grew opium and became addicted, and forests were destroyed, today it has become a strong community with a variety of vegetables to grow and eat. The environment is beautiful, and there is tourism that the community manages itself. Income from tourism goes towards education and community development. Villagers are self-sufficient and rely on each other and nature, thanks to the projects that the King has provided for them. Another impressive thing is that the villagers here live with sufficiency, choosing to live with peace and happiness in moderation... This is the ultimate happiness.
Tonight, we see the stars more clearly than ever before. Similarly, the question we have always had about why His Majesty has to work so hard, what we have just learned has made us understand more.
For breakfast, P'Jee made rice porridge for us to fill up before we set off. Because we were going to see the original coffee tree that His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej had visited, with P'Jee as our guide.
Big Ji asked us if we wanted to ride a motorcycle or walk. We chose to walk because the slowness would allow us to see more.
This is the first coffee tree, the origin of other coffee trees that made Chiang Mai a coffee city and the starting point of the well-being of the villagers here. We thought we wouldn't have the chance to see it because the incident happened 43 years ago. The villagers here take good care of this coffee tree. Grandpa Panyo is sick, so we didn't talk because we didn't want to disturb him.
The Fruits of Love
If you happen to visit during the period when a particular household is weaving, you will have the opportunity to observe the process. Weaving demonstrations are not staged specifically for tourists. We are currently walking to the vegetable plot, which is located near the village entrance and is not too far away. As we were walking, we came across Father Luang Kittisak (the village headman), who kindly offered to drive us to see the portobello mushroom farm. It took me a while to remember the name.
Phra Luang Kittisak explained the mushroom cultivation process to us. The method is quite complicated. Unfortunately, the produce from here is exported. If this project is successful and yields a lot, Thai people will be able to eat portobello mushrooms grown by Thai people. This is the first generation of trial planting. In Inthanon, there are 3 places where the project is being carried out: Ban Nong Lom, Khun Wang, and Ang Khang.
From the mushroom farm, we walked on to see the vegetable plots. The villagers here grow zucchini, bell peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, etc. There is also a gypsophila flower plot.
Walking past the glass lettuce patch, it smelled so good that I immediately wanted some salad dressing.
Translate bell peppers
The gypsophila flowers are so lovely! The kind uncle who is taking care of the gypsophila is also very nice. He allowed us to take pictures of the flowers freely.
We walked back to the village and heard music coming from a house. Even though it wasn't the original melody, we recognized the song: "Rain falls from the sky far away, plants and trees stand tall and flourish." We couldn't help but think of His Majesty. The kindness of King Rama IX must be like the rain for this place and everywhere his people live.
The Path to Happiness at Doi Inthanon
The Orchid Conservation Center of Doi Inthanon
Doi Inthanon still has many beautiful tourist attractions. During our visit, the tiger orchids at the Inthanon Lady's Slipper Orchid Conservation Center were just starting to bloom, and we didn't miss it.
Travel
The route is the same as the way up to Doi Inthanon. If you come from Chom Thong, ride along Highway 1009 for about 30 kilometers. Before reaching the Doi Inthanon National Park office, there will be a sign "Ban Khun Klang - Ban Khun Wang" on the right-hand side. Turn right onto Highway 1284 and continue straight for about 8 kilometers. Along the way, you will pass Ban Khun Klang School and the Doi Chang Ya tent site of the National Park. The road is a bit winding but in good condition. Make sure to check your fuel level as gas stations are scarce after turning onto Highway 1284. We rode a motorcycle and almost ran out of gas. Inside the park, there are snacks and souvenirs for sale. Please respect the rules of the place when visiting. Do not pick or pull the flowers. Share the beauty that only comes once a year with others to enjoy.
In addition to the blooming tiger lilies, the Inthanon Lady's Slipper Orchid Conservation Center also houses a lady's slipper orchid conservation project, a royal initiative of Her Majesty the Queen. There are many beautiful lady's slipper orchids to admire.
Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail
Open from 6:00 AM to 4:00 PM. A local guide is required at 200 baht per guide. This is a way to distribute income to the local community and, more importantly, you will gain knowledge throughout the nature walk. The distance is approximately 3 kilometers, and it takes us 2 hours to walk there and back. The path is easy and not too steep, but if you walk without stopping, you will get tired. Our favorite spot is the golden meadow, as it is an open meadow with a wide view.
A viewpoint where most people stop to take pictures. Looking ahead to the point with smoke is Mae Chaem district.
At the cliff of Pha Ngem Noi, if we are lucky, we will be able to see the rare and endangered serow.
The red rose will bloom in the winter.
Another equally stunning viewpoint offers a clear view of both the Nphamethinidon and Nphaphonphumisri pagodas.
We asked our local guide, Lu, "Which of the great stupas belongs to the King, and which to the Queen?" Lu replied, "The upper one (brown) belongs to the father, and the other one to the mother." From the story of Nong Lom village, it is no surprise that the people here call the King and Queen "father and mother."
The Great Relics Pagoda, Nophamethinidon and Nophaphonphumisri
Located near the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail, the entrance can be found by riding back down a bit. The entrance fee is 50 baht per person. The two great stupas were built by the Royal Thai Air Force as a royal merit-making offering on the occasion of the 5th cycle birthday anniversaries of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit.
The Great Reliquary Stupa of the Earth, meaning "the great stupa containing the relics of the earth", was built in honor of King Rama IX.
The Naphra That Nophaphon Phumisiri means "the power of the sky, the auspiciousness of the earth". It was built as an offering to Her Majesty the Queen.
The setting sun cast a beautiful glow on the Napphaphonphumisiri Great Stupa. We sat and watched the sunset from here.
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From a land once filled with opium fields, poverty, and hunger, where forests were destroyed, 43 years have passed. The results of the work of King Rama IX are now clearly visible in the happiness and well-being of the people. His Majesty and the villagers here have shown us that living a simple life and sacrificing for the common good can bring happiness. This is something we can all apply to our daily lives.
....Happiness is being content with what you are...
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to P'Sit, P'Jee, P'Oat, P'Kai, and everyone at Nong Lom Village and Pha Mon Village.
We are also grateful to JetradarTH and ReadmeTH for giving us the opportunity to do something good for His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej the Great.
Thank you to everyone who has joined us on this journey and read our reviews.
Join us in doing good deeds, following in the footsteps of His Majesty the King, for our beloved King.
By "Jetradar.co.th" and "Readme.me"
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For booking, please contact 081-166-4344, Mr. Oat, or via Facebook: Baan Phamon Doi Inthanon
And follow our journey at Keep Going
The original text is in English, so no translation is needed.
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