How to start without being boring? Well, let's start with a greeting. I must first apologize that this is my review, which was inspired by "rain". Yes, rain falling on the ground in Bangkok. But why do I think of the smell of the earth after the rain in Chiang Mai during the late rainy season and early winter of last year? I was looking at old photos from last year and thinking about Chiang Mai, and I felt like telling a story. Don't think anything else, just in case it's useful for anyone who's interested in going this year.
Let's go on a trip together...
This entire event occurred in the year 2558 of the Buddhist era, on the 2nd waning day of the moon… Wait a minute, am I being too detailed? This is a review, not a historical chronicle! Ahem… I went during the late rainy season, early winter, from November 7th to 12th, 2558. I roughly planned my trip, deciding where I wanted to go, and most importantly, it was my first solo trip ever. (The image fades to sepia tones.)
November 7, 2015, marked the first day of the journey.
::: The journey begins at the doorstep. :::
I opted for the sleeper train because I had already taken the bus and was tired of the scenery. I wanted to try a different perspective from the train. I was torn between the bus and the train for a long time because the prices were similar, and I had heard many stories about the train that everyone knows. However, when the time came, I had nothing to fear. I paid 821 Thai baht for the ticket...
I would like to express my gratitude to the "Team Train with Mr. Hammeun" page. Thanks to this page, I was able to gather valuable information about trains, which helped me make my decision to travel by train.
Departing from Bangkok by train from Hua Lamphong Station at 10:00 PM, we will be greeted by the majestic Mount Fuji on the left side of the window as we wake up in the morning. Ding Ding Ding Dong (the operator is here) 55555
A Journey Begins at Hua Lamphong
Arriving early to wander and take photos, Hua Lamphong is the first tourist spot we reached. I love the atmosphere here, it's so diverse. Every time I come here, I feel like my heart is traveling. Woahhhh, cheesy, right? 55555
My journey starts from the moment I step out of my room. Even buying curry at the mouth of the alley on a holiday, I consider that a journey. Okay, okay, what do you mean? It's just putting on my headphones, clutching my wallet, and stepping out. Play the national anthem (at this point, whoever thinks of "Thailand, the land of the free," doesn't stand up straight, right?! No way!!!).
My journey and yours is about learning. Our learning is about buying curry. You understand and I understand, so it makes us chicken panang, forty baht. It goes together, right? 5555555 Let's go, let's go, the train is about to leave. Wasting time, toot toot.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
I booked a lower bunk with a window for an extra 100 baht. It was definitely worth it. The train was incredibly comfortable, with the gentle rocking motion and the rhythmic clickety-clack of the wheels against the tracks. I'm starting to become a train enthusiast! I put on my headphones and drifted off to sleep. Sweet dreams, see you tomorrow. November 8, 2015.
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::: Embark on a new day with the train and a greeting from the mountains. :::
Dawn has broken, and I don't know where I am. I rub the sleep from my eyes and open the lens cover.
Here is the translation of the sentence:
"Here comes the first mountain, truly lush and green (is it lush?)."
Awakened by the mountain, I got out of bed and went for a walk in another carriage. At first, I thought that the ticket indicated which carriage I should stay in, and that I would have to stay there forever. However, the sleeping carriage did not have openable windows, which made it difficult to take pictures. Before I came, I asked the "Train Sitting Team" page if I could walk to the free train carriage. The answer was yes, so I went for it. Just don't disturb others... Let's go see the view outside the window.
The air is as cool as if the air conditioner were on. I spent quite a while here, soaking up the atmosphere. The cool air brushing against my face is great. I like this feeling.
I love this time of year, when the end of the rainy season meets the beginning of winter. The air is cool, but everything is still lush and green.
This scenic location features a railway line winding through mountains alongside the Yom River, adorned with scattered large and small rapids. This is Kaeng Luang in Phrae Province.
Feeling hungry, I decided to grab a bite at Krua Bokie. Previously, an auntie would always ask me at the sleeping compartment if I was hungry and if I wanted anything. We could order food and they would bring it to us, but I preferred to go out and eat myself.
Stir-fried pork with chili paste and fried egg, a delicious meal enjoyed with a cool breeze and scenic roadside views.
Eat and go, familiar with this show?
Another reason for choosing the train was to see the train pass through the Khun Tan Tunnel. I hope it was a fulfilling experience.
Just in time! I was chilling after dinner, waiting for the train to pass under the bridge. I had my headphones on and was about to play some music when I looked up and saw something red. It was the train, and it was about to go through the tunnel! I didn't have time to yell, so I dropped my phone, grabbed my camera, stuck my head out the window, and snapped two quick photos before ducking back inside. There was a loud thud, and everything went dark. I sat there for a moment, then checked the photos. Thankfully, they weren't blurry. I'm so glad I caught it!
From Khun Tan Tunnel, with the music playing, we arrived at Chiang Mai Station in no time.
11:30 AM Official welcome to Chiang Mai. 13 hours on a Thai train. Who says their trains are punctual?
From Chiang Mai Railway Station, I took a red songthaew for 40 baht to pick up the motorbike at Bikky's branch at the Arcade Transport Station. On the way back from the bus tour, I could return the motorbike there. I had already contacted the shop via LINE to book the motorbike. This time, I requested a Grand Filano. It was very convenient. We contacted each other via LINE, and when I arrived at the shop, I just showed them my LINE chat. The motorbike was ready, and I was ready to go. I went straight to my accommodation to take a shower and unpack my belongings.
Baanmek Hostel, a Japanese-style accommodation in the Nimmanhaemin area. I stayed here for two nights. The caretaker was a lovely and kind woman, either Japanese or Chinese. It took some time to understand each other, but her friendly and gentle demeanor (can you believe how much I'm praising her? 55555) made it easy for us to communicate. (I'm not thinking anything weird, right?) Okay, let's take a look at the accommodation.
The interior is divided into several small rooms, which provides a good sense of privacy. There are keys to lock the rooms, which gives peace of mind. This is different from other hostels that have multiple beds in one room, often with only a curtain separating them. In such cases, you can hear everything that happens in the next bed. However, this doesn't bother me because I don't spend much time in my room. I usually just come back to sleep.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
The room is equipped with a bed, a table, and electrical outlets to keep your devices charged. It is recommended to choose a room close to the air conditioner for optimal comfort.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
The downstairs atmosphere is perfect for reading, with cozy corners everywhere.
Anyone interested in grabbing a bite to eat? I'm starving!
Here it is, the Khao Soi Nimmanha restaurant. I opened Foursquare to find food in this area and it came up as number 1. The restaurant is located in Nimmanha Soi 7, not far from my accommodation.
Khao Soi with Crispy Pork and Deep-Fried Sai Oua
This translates to a dish called Khao Soi, a Northern Thai noodle soup, served with crispy pork and deep-fried Sai Oua (a type of fermented sausage).
Delicious. There are many toppings to choose from, all of which look delicious. I will definitely visit again to try them all. I am very impressed.
After dinner, we walked back to our accommodation to rest. Tonight, we will visit the Tha Pae Gate Walking Street.
5:00 PM, the sound of the alarm clock calls us to the walking street.
Park the car and visit Phra Singh Temple.
After visiting the temple, cross the street to the walking street.
The Sunday Walking Street at Tha Pae Gate is a vibrant market that comes alive every Sunday evening. Starting at 6 pm, vendors set up their stalls, offering a wide variety of goods until around 11 pm. This bustling market is a favorite among locals and tourists alike, providing a unique opportunity to experience the local culture and atmosphere. Visitors can stroll through the market, browsing the diverse selection of products and enjoying the lively ambiance. The sound of vendors calling out in the northern Thai dialect adds to the charm of the experience. While the market offers a wide range of items, the true allure lies in the immersive atmosphere. The relaxed pace, the friendly chatter, and the vibrant energy create a memorable experience that keeps visitors coming back for more.
Live music was playing, and I was lucky enough to see Mai Muang perform today. I spent a long time here, as if I were spellbound, standing alone, smiling and listening with pleasure.
The most important thing is that there are temples along the way for you to stop and pray. The temple that I am most impressed with and must visit every time is Wat Phantao. It is a beautiful wooden temple with a strong Chiang Mai identity. Every time I come here, I will come to pray and ask for blessings, hoping to come back again.
The next temple is Wat Chedi Luang, the largest temple in Chiang Mai. However, I did not visit it tonight and will save it for a daytime visit.
The musical instruments looked peculiar, and the music they produced was equally unusual, yet strangely enjoyable. Interestingly, the Thai audience remained still, while the Westerners couldn't resist the rhythm. They swayed to the beat, while I, a Thai myself, stood still, observing the Westerners' movements.
This group of hotshot street performers, accompanied by the old book vendor, strutted down the road, their boisterous chatter echoing through the air.
Uncle Free Hug
Live music is available in a variety of genres, allowing you to choose your favorite.
I walked to Tha Pae Gate and then walked back to Wat Phra Singh. I mainly got food and then drove to find a place to eat.
Here it is, the Friendship Bridge, also known as the Iron Pole Bridge. A romantic spot steeped in history. The cool breeze from the Ping River, the atmosphere of the bridge, and the sound of cars... (whoops, almost had it! 55555)
One day in Chiang Mai city has passed. Today was a relaxing day. I'm going to sleep and recharge for tomorrow's adventures. November 9, 2015.
:::Go to every mountain, don't wait below. :::
Today, I woke up early at 9:30 am. We will be going up to Doi Suthep and exploring the area at our own pace.
A scenic viewpoint, a bit too sunny. Located on a mountain, the air is completely different from the city. Is this what they call "the higher, the more beautiful"? (Wait, isn't it "the higher, the colder"? 55555)
I have arrived. The road is smooth with comfortable curves, and it is not dangerous for motorcycles.
Striking a pose with the locals, unfazed by the camera. Who said I was alone? Here's the introduction.
Pray to the Buddha for hair, hoping to get it again. Today the sun is shining brightly, the sky is beautiful.
The clouds are arranged in a beautiful line.
Enjoyable weather like this.
Continuing on, the road narrows to two lanes with occasional potholes. I remember driving here with my ex-girlfriend, and the increasing isolation, with only forest and no oncoming or following vehicles, filled me with fear. Worried about running out of fuel, we decided to turn back. That was with two of us. This time, alone, I'm determined to reach the end, no matter what, to confront and understand my fear, to prove that there's nothing to be afraid of.
Laughing at myself at this point. (What are you afraid of? Are you afraid of the shared taxi?!) Yes, there's nothing to be afraid of. The car is full, people are everywhere. This is the scariest thing: overthinking.
Local products are available in Doi Pui village, including a pig museum and modern amenities.
The road will continue to narrow down to a single lane. Please drive carefully.
The scenic viewpoint of Doi Pui Hmong Village offers a glimpse into a rural community nestled amidst lush greenery, reminiscent of Mae Kampong. While both villages share a similar setting, subtle differences set them apart. Identifying these distinctions is left as an exercise for the reader to ponder.
Drive to Doi Pui National Park, where there is a campsite. If you go during the winter when the tiger lilies are in bloom, it will be very beautiful.
Let me pose for a moment. The sky is beautiful, I can't help it.
A leisurely drive on Doi Suthep took up most of the day. By the time we descended the mountain, it was past 4 pm, but there was still time for sightseeing.
The Tunnel Temple, I wanted to visit since last time. I happened to see a picture on a postcard and asked the seller, who told me it was the Tunnel Temple. So I kept it in mind, holding up three fingers, saying I would come next time.
Moving on to Wat Suan Dok, a temple we passed on our way back to our accommodation. Seeing it, we decided to stop by. Initially, we didn't know what temple it was, but we were pleasantly surprised.
Sunset at Wat Phra That
Wat Suan Dok is a beautiful temple. I sat and relaxed while waiting for the sunset before heading home. You can go anywhere by motorbike, just let Google Maps guide you.
We are exhausted. Let's return to our lodgings and take a shower. We have a reward waiting for us tonight.
Today, I had a delicious dinner at the H̄oi Cha Chāo Wāng restaurant. I discovered this restaurant on Foursquare during my previous stay in the area. Located on Soi Sām Lān near Wat Phra Singh, the restaurant offers a variety of dishes. I ordered my usual favorites: Tom Kha Gai (chicken in coconut soup), deep-fried prawns with plum sauce, and crispy minced pork salad. While not strictly a local cuisine restaurant, their minced pork salad is a must-try. Just thinking about it makes me hungry!
The relaxed atmosphere here allows you to sit on the floor with your legs dangling over the edge, enjoying your food while swinging your legs. It's incredibly relaxing.
Today's reward is finding a chill spot to say goodbye to Nimmanhaemin before entering the forest. Ahhhhh, refreshing! For today, hello to my fellow Thais. November 10, 2015.
::: The journey itself is the reward, even on a day of endless rain. :::
I remember waking up early today, excited to finally be heading into the forest after two days in the city. I quickly got myself ready, showered, dressed, and went out to grab a bite to eat before starting my journey to Mae Kampong.
This morning, I had a delicious breakfast at a restaurant called "Kai Kratha Lerdsin" near the Chiang Mai city gate. The restaurant was recommended by my friend, Jeh Foe, who also provided me with directions using Google Maps.
This image perfectly captures the essence of excellence.
Near the fried egg shop, I saw a temple, Wat Chet Lin. I couldn't help but stop by. It's good to be alone like this. I don't have to wait for anyone's opinion. If I want to go, I just go. My legs, my heart, I do what I feel comfortable with.
This creature resembles a panda in color, but it has five eyes, four ears, and a red mouth.
The temple near the Loy Krathong festival has built a maze, which looks interesting. However, it is not yet finished. (I'm not sure if it's an annual event, but if you're passing by during Loy Krathong this year, it's worth checking out.)
Continuing on to Wat Chedi Luang, I had originally planned to visit during the day. However, I stumbled upon monks chanting prayers and decided to sit and listen for a while before taking my leave.
The atmosphere around the temple is beautiful. I enjoyed walking around aimlessly until I lost track of time. It's almost 10 am now, so I should probably hurry.
I booked a bus back to Bangkok through a website before going to Mae Kampong. I booked with E-uang Luang Tour, which only had two buses per day, morning and evening. After booking, I paid at 7-Eleven and got a slip to board the bus. After finishing my business, I returned to my accommodation to get my bag and set off. It took a long time. Is this what they say about getting lost in Chiang Mai? Not getting lost because Google Maps led me astray, but because I got lost in the stories along the way.
"Goodbye, Baan Mek. I have to hurry to Baan Mae Kampong. Otherwise, my little sister will wait for a long time. (Which little sister is waiting?)"
From Nimmanhaemin, open Google Maps and navigate to Mae Kampong. The distance is approximately 50 kilometers and takes about 1 hour, depending on the allure of roadside attractions.
Google Maps led me to Doi Saket. The road was clear and the drive was smooth.
Continuing on, you will encounter Doi Saket Chedi. Having heard its name for a long time, I decided to stop by since I was passing by. There is a road that circles up to the chedi.
The descent led us to another path that opened onto the main road. And that's when it hit me - the view along the way was breathtaking. So beautiful that I drove past it, lost in admiration, and had to turn around to capture the scenery.
A large tree stands in the middle of a rice field, with a towering mountain in the background. Two water buffalo graze peacefully nearby, evoking the idyllic landscapes of childhood drawings.
Continuing on, there are more beautiful views to see along the way, including green rice fields and golden terraced rice fields right next to the road.
I enjoy this feeling. We encounter the unexpected along the way to our destination. It's like a travel reward that transforms into a lasting memory.
The road continues uphill, entering a forested area with a noticeable drop in temperature.
I decided to visit Giant, a coffee shop on a tree, first because it was a fork in the road before entering Mae Kampong. After driving up the mountain for a while, the end of the rainy season and the beginning of the cold season welcomed me with rain and cool air. Plus, the road became increasingly difficult, and my Google Maps app suddenly stopped working due to lack of signal. It even had the audacity to tell me that I was 10 minutes away from my destination. I almost gave up and turned back halfway, but I decided to keep going to find shelter from the rain at the coffee shop.
Come in, come in. It's just the right amount of wetness, nice and juicy.
It appears that the shop is currently undergoing an expansion, creating a more spacious environment. The atmosphere was pleasant, and during my visit, it was raining, creating a misty ambiance. I took shelter from the rain and enjoyed a cup of iced green tea with milk. Once the rain had stopped, I continued my journey.
The weather is unpredictable, but the saying "Don't take the weather for granted" still holds true. After a brief respite, the rain returned with a vengeance, even at level three of the windshield wipers. There were some shelters available, but since I was already soaked, I decided to push on to Mae Kampong. The rain stung my face, and the cold air made me shiver, but it was also exhilarating, like playing in the rain as a child, despite my mother's warnings about getting sick. I had booked a room at Lung Pood Pa Peng's for 550 baht per person, and I arrived at their coffee shop to check in. As I entered, everyone turned to look and smiled, as if I had never seen rain before and had just gone out to play in it. Water dripped from me in a steady stream. After completing the check-in process, I was escorted to my room and asked if I wanted an umbrella. (Wow! I was so soaked that I wished I could just take a shower with soap and shampoo right there!)
After showering, I took the medicine my mother had prepared to prevent illness. Then, I lay down to wait for the rain to stop. This kind of weather is perfect for doing nothing but lying down. The sound of the rain, the cool air that doesn't require air conditioning… Snore… Zzzzzz…
Waking up to nearly four o'clock, the air after the rain is truly fragrant with the scent of the earth. View from the balcony of the accommodation.
The bedroom was incredibly spacious, boasting two beds. Sleeping alone in such a vast space sent shivers down my spine. It seemed I was the only guest that night, making the entire house my own.
Let's go for a walk in the village. We still have time.
The entire village is experiencing murky water following heavy rainfall.
But in exchange for this lush, deep green, I'm willing to accept the cool breeze and pleasant walk.
Mae Kampong Temple
The ending features a rooster, or a turkey, or a chicken, chicken, chicken. Anyone know, please answer.
Afterward, I went to a local restaurant in the village for dinner. The food was delicious and affordable, and most importantly, they had Wi-Fi. After a satisfying meal, I bought three bottles of my favorite drink as a reward and went back to the balcony of my accommodation to enjoy them. I put on some Jason Mraz music, wrapped myself in a warm blanket, and decided to call it a night without taking any more pictures. It was a truly enjoyable experience being alone. Good night, and I'll see you all tomorrow.
I will postpone the summary for one more day and will provide a comprehensive overview of the trip on November 11, 2015.
Translation:
::: The last day, with 12 more hours in Chiang Mai. :::
A greeting with the morning mist from the roof next door. Last night was the best sleep of the trip. The air was cool enough that I didn't need to turn on the air conditioning, and the sound of the water flowing lulled the whole village to sleep. I envy the people here.
A stream flows in front of the accommodation. Yesterday, the water was still murky. Nature can reset itself very quickly.
Local dogs in Mae Kampong are generally friendly. They may follow you, walk you to your destination, or even accompany you to the Mae Kampong Temple. There is a black dog that will walk with you to the waterfall.
However, it seems that they are not friendly with each other, judging from the butts that entered the frame and the intense gazes.
This is the accommodation at Uncle Putt and Aunt Pung's place. Initially, I thought I would be staying in this building, but it was fully booked. So, I found out that they have two buildings.
This is the house where I slept alone last night. It's located by the stream and looks newer.
The flower is beautiful, isn't it? Usually, we see it cut and arranged in pots, but here it is growing naturally by the stream. Which do you prefer?
Translation:
Classic village map
Crowned as the village's nurse, she exudes elegance, serenity, and composure. More importantly, she serves as the source of the stream that nourishes the entire village. I would call her the heart of Mae Kampong.
Samranchan was another place I wanted to stay, but it was fully booked. At least I got to see the roof.
Breakfast was served at the coffee shop, Uncle Pud, Aunt Pung. The accommodation included breakfast, but it had to be taken at the coffee shop. It consisted of rice porridge, waffles, and any drink from the shop's menu. I had my usual green tea with fresh milk. For dinner, I had a can of Mama Cup noodles.
The atmosphere of the restaurant is as chill as ever.
This is the charm of the late rainy season. Although it may be muddy, wet, and a bit difficult to travel, everything is lush and green, pleasing to the eye.
Don't worry about the oil. There are shops selling it, so you can rest assured.
I'm going back to my room to pack my bags and get ready to head back to the city. Before I leave, I'm going to stop by the birdwatching shop. It's raining heavily again.
A popular viewpoint of a village surrounded by forest. Visitors often take photos from this angle, as the village appears to be heart-shaped.
Translation:
Iced green tea with fresh milk (again) and Thai tea cake. Delicious, the sweetness and richness complement each other well. Sitting and waiting for the rain to stop without worrying about time running out.
There is another place I would like to visit, which is Him Doi Home, a homestay owned by Ms. Ao. I found out about Ms. Ao's homestay after I had already booked my accommodation. I contacted her on Facebook and she suggested that I visit her home before returning, in case I liked it and wanted to come back again.
This is a dream house, a house in the forest, by the stream, and you can even soak in the water. It's a first impression that rarely happens to anyone.
Smell the flowers in front of your house.
The first time I met Ms. Ao, she was very friendly and welcoming. It felt like we had known each other for years, even though we had just met. I was so impressed with her hospitality that I booked a stay at her house for a return trip in January of this year. It was another memorable experience, and I will share more details when I have time.
Farewell, Mae Kampong: A Village of Earthy Scents that Haunts Me Every Time it Rains
This sentence evokes a sense of nostalgia and longing for a place called Mae Kampong, described as a "village of earthy scents." The speaker bids farewell to this cherished location, acknowledging that its memory lingers in their mind, particularly when it rains. The imagery of the rain triggering memories suggests a deep emotional connection to the village and its unique atmosphere.
That afternoon, I bid farewell to Mae Kampong and headed back to the city. However, I wanted to stop by Doi Kham Temple to pray for the opportunity to return. I asked P'Kei to take me there as it was on our way.
Concluding with Khao Soi Lam Duan at Wat Fa Ha, we set off for Bangkok.
Returning the motorbike at the arcade, I boarded the tour bus, returning to my normal life with a fully charged battery.
:::::::::::::The End:::::::::::::
The first solo trip, not as lonely as I thought. We met, made decisions with ease, followed our hearts without bothering anyone. We understood ourselves, what was right and wrong for us. We met strangers, countless unfamiliar people. We gained immunity along with experience. And the stories along the way, which today have become unforgettable memories.
"I don't just enjoy traveling, I enjoy the feeling of us being on a journey together."
Thank you for being a companion up to this point. See you again on the next trip.
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Friday, October 4, 2024 3:22 PM