Hello, today I, Mr. tummengTravel / Backpack Cool Around the World, have another cool backpacking trip to share with you.

Driven by the allure of breathtaking rice terraces in Sapa and Mu Cang Chai, as depicted in countless online reviews and captivating photos shared by friends, I embarked on a journey to witness this natural wonder firsthand.



This time, I tried to invite a few close friends to join me on a trip to Mu Cang Chai, Sapa. They all agreed to go. Initially, there were only four of us, but later it increased to seven. However, in the end, only six of us made it because...

One person missed the flight.

However, none of the six of us knew exactly where Mu Cang Chai was located in Vietnam, how to get there, or where to stay. We only knew that it was incredibly beautiful. No one bothered to do any real research because everyone assumed that I, as the organizer, would have prepared everything adequately. This turned out to be a big mistake. I was so busy with work that I didn't have time to plan until a week before the trip. I had to scramble to book accommodation, transportation, and plan the itinerary. As a result, the trip became a spontaneous, chaotic, and disorienting adventure, full of wrong turns and unexpected detours. Despite the lack of planning, it ended up being a lot of fun.



The total cost of this trip will be summarized at the end of the review.



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As the rainy season began in July, I suggested to my friends that we go camping in Sapa, Mu Cang Chai. We started looking for deals and booked flights to Hanoi for 490 baht with AirAsia. We booked our flights for early September because we wanted to see the rice fields when they were yellow. I had almost two months to plan the trip, but as I mentioned earlier, I ended up not planning much because I was too relaxed.

We departed from Don Mueang International Airport in Bangkok, Thailand, and arrived at Noi Bai International Airport in Hanoi, Vietnam, at 6:30 AM. Our group consisted of six members, five males and one female.

It takes approximately 1.30 hours to fly from Don Mueang to Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.

For those who are too lazy to read the long review, you can watch a short video clip of this trip that I have edited from the action camera I used throughout the trip.

According to the original plan, we were supposed to travel to Mu Cang Chai by private van, which has 16 seats (although it can comfortably accommodate only 12 people). The remaining seats were intended for luggage. However, it turned out that our trip coincided with a long weekend celebrating Vietnam's Independence Day from France. Consequently, all accommodations in Mu Cang Chai were fully booked. We only learned about this three days before our departure. The tour company's staff, who were coordinating the transportation and accommodation for me, informed me of the situation. As a result, I had to change my plan and visit Sapa first.

Traveling to Sapa offers various transportation options. One popular choice is the overnight sleeper train departing at 9:00 PM and arriving in Lao Cai province the following morning. From there, local buses connect travelers to Sapa.

Alternatively, you can take an overnight or daytime bus that travels on the expressway, covering a distance of approximately 250 kilometers and taking around 6-8 hours.

My choice of a minibus for transportation was based on a cost-benefit analysis. While it was more expensive than other options, it offered greater convenience. The ability to stop and take pictures, eat, and shop along the way was a significant advantage. Additionally, the shorter travel time allowed me to reach Sapa on the same day I arrived in Vietnam, avoiding the need to spend an extra day in Hanoi.

This is a rest stop on the expressway in Vietnam, on the way from Hanoi to Sapa. The condition of the bathroom is such that it is only suitable for urination. Therefore, anyone planning a long journey should take care of their business before setting off.

The scenery along the way was unremarkable, except for the occasional passing bus.

The journey included passing through two long tunnels, if I recall correctly.

However, when the car arrived in Lao Cai and turned onto the road to Sapa, the beauty and thrill were overwhelming.

We rode for approximately 30 kilometers on a narrow and winding road, our heads bobbing with the motion.

Our group arrived at our accommodation in Sapa City around 3:00 PM. As mentioned earlier, my group had almost no information about this trip, so we decided to explore Sapa City first to see what it had to offer.

We stayed at the Eden Sapa Hotel. A short walk away, we found a multipurpose court and, next to it, a kind of market where local people were selling their goods.

We continued our exploration on foot towards the lake, as we had seen during our car ride that it appeared to be a beautiful spot for photography.

Sapa is a mountainous town situated 1600 meters above sea level, resulting in a cool climate year-round. During winter, snowfall is not uncommon.

In Sapa, locals are accustomed to tourists and are generally not shy. They can communicate in English, from children to adults, making it easy to find food throughout your stay.

I walked around with my camera, taking pictures and talking to the locals. I also had the opportunity to capture some photos of the children.

On the first evening in Sapa, we were greeted by massive rain clouds, so we gathered to capture the evening light from the hotel balcony.

On the first night, we dined at a nearby restaurant recommended by the hotel staff while arranging a motorbike rental for the following day. The rental cost 150,000 VND per day, which is approximately 180 Baht.

Early in the morning, we left the hotel without having breakfast, as we wanted to capture the morning light at the Ta Van terraced rice fields, according to the information we found on the internet last night.

Ta Phin Village is located approximately 12 kilometers from Sapa. Along the way, there are numerous rice terraces where you can stop and take pictures.

Riding a motorbike for a while, I came across two young children standing at a spot with a breathtaking view of the rice terraces.

We wasted no time in capturing images of both the children and the naga balustrade.

After capturing some photos, we continued our journey to Ta Fan Village.

We arrived at Ta Fan Village, where the iconic iron suspension bridge stands. As rain loomed, we sought refuge in a small village eatery that doubles as a homestay for foreign tourists seeking an authentic experience with the Hmong hill tribe.

This set is 40,000 VND. Relax and wait for the rain to stop for about an hour.

After the rain stopped, we continued our journey on motorbikes to capture the vast expanse of rice terraces, resembling mountains of yellow and green.

Tired of photographing the rice terraces, I turned my attention to the people, capturing the children of the village who persistently followed me trying to sell various local products. I ended up buying three friendship bracelets from them and then used them as models for my photographs.

At Ban Ta Fan, most foreign tourists tend to explore the village on foot, accompanied by volunteer indigenous guides.

We continued our motorbike journey, exploring the area around Tafaan. Whenever we came across a scenic spot, we would stop and take photos.

Always wear a helmet when riding a motorbike here, as the police will otherwise apprehend you. Additionally, it protects you on dangerous roads.

On our way back, we stopped at several viewpoints to capture the beauty of the rice terraces and the people. We took our time, as we were traveling on our own and could stop wherever we wanted. My friends would follow suit and park their cars nearby.

After lunch at the same restaurant as the previous night, we took a short break to recharge our camera batteries before heading to Cat Cat village.

Before heading to Ban Kat Kat, we stopped by Coffee View, a cafe with a scenic viewpoint. From this vantage point, we anticipated breathtaking views.

The view from here is truly magnificent and breathtaking.

After enjoying a cup of coffee, I ventured into the village of Kat Kat, where an entrance fee of 40,000 VND was required. I followed the designated path, lined with souvenir shops offering a variety of mementos.

I walked until I reached the waterfall, where I stopped to take some photos. After a while, I returned to Sapa, as I wasn't particularly impressed by this village. In fact, if I had brought a long telephoto lens and taken photos from the coffee shop, I could have captured some beautiful images of the rice terraces.

On the second night, we dined at the same restaurant as the previous evening. Our order consisted of simple dishes such as fried rice, fried pork with rice, and fried beef with rice, along with spaghetti. The total cost ranged from 70,000 to 120,000 Vietnamese Dong.

After dinner, we went out to soak up the atmosphere of Sapa at night, as it was our last night there. Tomorrow, we will travel to Mu Cang Chai, a small commune, but they say the terraced rice fields are more beautiful than here.

Upon returning to our accommodation, we inquired about transportation options to Mu Cang Chai for the following day. Prior to our arrival, we had consulted with a Vietnamese tour guide friend who informed us that public transportation was available.

The hotel staff informed me that traveling to Mu Cang Chai by public bus is not recommended for foreign tourists due to the multiple transfers required (at least three). They suggested hiring a private minibus for $170 USD instead.

The trip has encountered a financial obstacle. We are considering our options, which include abandoning our reservation at Mu Cang Chai and staying here an extra night to explore Hanoi, or continuing on to Mu Cang Chai as originally planned.

The group unanimously agreed that since they had come this far, they should go all the way to Mookang Jai. Therefore, they decided to rent a car, even though it would cost them extra money.

This trip brings together people with similar ideals. See you tomorrow at Mookang Jai.

The morning mist provided a picturesque backdrop for capturing the early morning ambiance, following the previous night's rainfall.

Before breakfast, we received some bad news. Initially, we discussed with the hotel staff about renting a car to go to Mu Cang Chai for 170 USD. The plan was for the car to take us to Tu Le, La Pa Tan, and Mu Cang Chai, as we understood it to be a full-day rental. However, the hotel staff informed us that the car would only take us to Mu Cang Chai and would not stop anywhere else due to the 6-hour travel time for the 156 km distance. Therefore, we decided not to take the car arranged by the hotel. Instead, I called my friend who is a guide to arrange a car that could stop for us to take pictures. However, it was not possible to go to Tu Le and La Pa Tan.

We waited for the car for a while. At around 9:00 AM, the car arrived to pick us up. Luckily, we got a new car with cold air conditioning. The young driver was kind and made stops for us along the way.

The 156 km journey from Sapa to Mu Cang Chai takes 5-6 hours by car. However, the first three hours pass quickly due to the stunning scenery along the way. We stopped so often that we were worried about the driver.

The landscape is characterized by towering mountains, a rarity in our region, and meandering streams interspersed with rocky outcrops. Even majestic waterfalls grace the journey.

We were getting hungry around noon, as some of us hadn't eaten breakfast due to being busy clearing up car issues. We forgot to eat, so we told the driver to stop for lunch. The driver didn't understand English, so we had been using sign language the whole time. This time, he didn't understand, so he handed me his phone to talk to someone. I told them we wanted to stop for lunch, and we were able to continue our journey.

The driver took us to a house, which looked like a wooden house on stilts. It didn't seem like a restaurant, but I saw several Vietnamese people in official uniforms sitting there. It turned out to be a home-style restaurant. The owner seemed to be Tai Phuan or some kind of Tai. Brother P spoke in a Tai Lue accent mixed with Isaan, and we were able to communicate with them.

After waiting for a while, the menu was still unavailable. While sipping tea, I was called to eat by the elder brother.

As we ascended, we encountered a table set for our arrival. We were surprised, wondering how much this would cost. Regardless, we sat down and began to eat. There were many dishes, including sun-dried fish, northern-style minced pork salad, bamboo shoot curry, stir-fried bamboo shoots, vegetable curry, and minced pork salad. The highlight was the unexpected arrival of an additional dish: grilled buffalo meat. While I had tried it before, many others had not. Since we were already there, we decided to give it a try. After all, if we didn't eat it here, where else would we?

Accompanied by three bottles of home-brewed white liquor, my friend was forced to break his religious vow of abstinence during the Buddhist Lent period. The homeowner insisted on sharing a toast, and my friend felt obligated to accept out of courtesy.

After a satisfying meal, we continued our journey to our original destination, Mu Cang Chai. Interestingly, throughout our journey, we did not encounter any road signs indicating the distance to Mu Cang Chai. Instead, we only saw signs reading "Mc Chai," which initially led us to believe that our destination was much farther than anticipated. However, we later realized that "Mc Chai" is simply an abbreviation for "Mu Cang Chai."

The scenery along the way is still as breathtaking as ever, but it has become more interesting with the occasional appearance of villages or towns, in addition to the mountains, rice fields, and rivers.

We found a beautiful spot and parked. The driver didn't complain because we tipped them 100,000 VND. 555

At approximately 4:00 PM, we unknowingly arrived at the Moon Hotel in Mu Cang Chai. We initially thought we were not there yet, as the kilometer marker indicated "MC Chai."

Upon arrival at the hotel, the room I had booked was not yet ready as the previous guest had checked out late. As a result, I rented a motorbike from the hotel for 200,000 VND per day and went for a ride.

After driving 500 meters, the rental car ran out of fuel. It turned out that the rental company had almost emptied the fuel tank, and we had to refill it ourselves. We had to push the car to the gas station to refuel. After refueling, it started to rain, so we had to wait for almost half an hour for the rain to stop.

This is the first viewpoint after leaving the village of Mu Cang Chai. From this angle, if you come during good weather, you will see the sunset along with the atmosphere of the small village.

We rode our motorbikes around, stopping to take photos whenever we found something interesting. We plan to come back tomorrow if the weather is good.

While Sapa is undeniably beautiful, Mu Cang Chai offers an even more breathtaking experience.

According to the hotel owner, the beautiful areas in the vicinity include Tule, Lapatan, and villages near Mukangjae. However, this trip did not include Tule due to its distance of approximately 50 kilometers from Mukangjae.

The journey continued with occasional stops for photos. After some time, a friend's car experienced mechanical issues, with a noise resembling a loose chain. We stopped for repairs and took a break. We inquired about directions and conversed with locals using sign language, as the Mu Cang Chai locals, unlike those in Sapa, rarely speak English. Due to the limited tourist presence compared to Sapa, communication here proved challenging, requiring significant hand gestures.

With the car repairs completed, evening was approaching. The group decided to return to their lodgings for the night and resume their journey the following day.

On the second day in Mu Cang Chai, our goal was to reach the legendary La Pan Ton and Lan Ho.

We rode our motorbike, asking for directions along the way, but we still couldn't pinpoint the location of Lan Ho.

However, we still managed to find some beautiful spots to stop and capture some amazing photos, despite the challenging lighting conditions. The sky was overcast with intermittent bursts of sunshine throughout the day.

This necessitates frequent stops every 200-300 meters to capture images.

This is another spot with a stunning view. The rice fields are a beautiful mix of yellow and green, which is exactly what we were hoping for. This is the main reason why we chose to camp at Mu Ko Chang during this time. Before coming, we checked with local guides to make sure the rice fields would be yellow or green.

It is highly recommended to wear brightly colored clothing when visiting this location to capture stunning photographs.

We spent approximately half a day traversing the rice terraces, capturing various perspectives of this scenic landscape.

Approaching noon, we arrived at the La Pan Ton intersection and decided to stop for a bite to eat. Since our hotel did not offer breakfast, we opted for a bowl of pho, which cost 40,000 VND.

In the afternoon, we will try to enter La pa ton.

Upon turning into the road, a challenging path emerged within a kilometer, nearly causing discouragement. Fortunately, the difficult terrain only extended for approximately 200 meters.

The fight continues.

Capturing the beauty of terraced rice fields, step by step.

Capturing fellow travelers in their vibrant attire.

The Sapa - Mu Cang Chai trip was a liberating experience. As a self-organized trip with friends, we had the freedom to go wherever we wanted and do whatever we pleased. We could change plans on a whim and linger at scenic spots to capture the perfect light for our photos.



Or even just sit and watch, because the scene is so beautiful that it cannot be captured as beautifully as the eye can see it. So I just stand and watch. Sometimes, after being in a framework for a long time, it is good to come out and relax. It is a good way to stimulate the imagination.

As I drove up, I noticed a group of children playing with toy cars in a gutter. I decided to set up my action camera to film them, but they stopped playing.

Negotiate to let the children play again on the street.

After discussing our options, we realized that finding the legendary Lan Ho would be impossible. We decided to return to the village and ask for directions from a teacher at the school. The teacher informed us that reaching Lan Ho was extremely difficult, requiring a long hike and a 4WD pickup truck to navigate the terrain.

The teacher gave us a rough idea of how to get back to Mu Kang Jai. He said that Lan Ho is about 5 kilometers from Mu Kang Jai and about 4 kilometers from where we are now. We decided to go to Lan Ho, but on the way, we remembered that the map showed another village that we should visit and that was on the way to Lan Ho. So we decided to stop by.

Upon visiting, one will encounter numerous rice terraces. We had the opportunity to capture the process of rice harvesting and Vietnamese-style threshing.


The process of harvesting and threshing rice here differs from our own. Men are responsible for cutting the rice stalks, which are then threshed in wooden barrels by women. This action separates the rice grains from the stalks. Finally, the rice is collected in sacks and taken home for consumption.



The most senior member of our trip volunteered to pound the rice, much to the amusement of the mother and child, who were eager to see how much rice he would scatter.

After taking photos to their satisfaction, the group left, communicating solely through sign language. Despite the language barrier, they understood each other. My friend, "Pa Noi," gave the deaf child 5,000 VND.

Our next destination was the legendary Lan Ho. We continued to ask for directions and measure the distance, driving for about 4 kilometers. We stopped at a point where we suspected it might be, and after asking for directions, we were confirmed to be in the right place.

The path leading to the viewpoint is only suitable for off-road motorcycles and not recommended for passengers. We hired local teenagers to transport our companions on motorbikes while we navigated the treacherous terrain. The slippery, muddy path, a result of recent rainfall, made for a challenging and near-hazardous ascent. Due to the challenging conditions, we were unable to stop for photographs along the way. The journey, which took approximately 40-45 minutes, is best undertaken on foot for those without strong motorcycle riding skills.

After the climb, the breathtaking view we had been searching for the past two days was finally before us.

The feeling is like finding something you've been searching for a long time, and finally, you've found it. Sometimes, you can spend hours there without getting bored. We kept pressing the shutter, and the villagers passing by cheered us on. At that moment, there were only six of us on the top.

The proximity of Hmong villagers in this area facilitated the recruitment of models.

Communication difficulties are not always an obstacle to travel. Using sign language can be fun and lead to friendships with local people.

We waited at the spot for almost three hours, hoping to capture the beautiful evening light that might shine through. Finally, there was a brief moment when the sunlight broke through. We quickly pressed the shutter, but we couldn't wait until nightfall because we had to descend the mountain.

by motorcycle, which is very dangerous.

Upon arrival, we greeted the family of our host and took photos with the pigs. Exhausted, we returned to our accommodation.

On the way back, we encountered another beautiful view, and we couldn't resist stopping to capture it once more.

Despite arriving at their accommodation, they couldn't resist carrying their tripods to capture the evening scenery by the water.

This concludes our photography trip to Mù Cang Chải. Tomorrow, we have arranged for a car to pick us up from Hanoi and take us back to Hanoi.

At 9:00 AM, we will depart by car for a journey of approximately 250 kilometers, which is expected to take 6-7 hours. This route is not an expressway, unlike the one we took from Hanoi to Sapa.

Before the car arrived to pick us up, our group went out to find something to eat at the Mougange Market and took some pictures of the town. Since we arrived, we had only been taking pictures of the rice terraces.

Following the tour, we boarded a prearranged bus, contacted by our original guide, as taking public transportation would have been time-consuming and challenging due to language barriers. Consequently, we were unable to visit Tule.

The journey to Hanoi was a long one, with stops for photos and occasional bouts of nausea. A lunch break was taken before arriving in Hanoi at nearly 5:00 PM.

We quickly checked in at the hotel we had booked.

A newly opened hotel with an adorable aesthetic. The guide recommended it due to its proximity to shopping areas and Hoa Binh Lake, both within walking distance.

Located in a slightly secluded alley, this small 6-story hotel boasts friendly and welcoming staff with excellent English communication skills.

After placing the bag, he quickly walked to the lake to capture the evening view of Hanoi.

Many people are present because it is still the Vietnamese Independence Day holiday.

Summary of expenses

- Car to Sapa: 250 USD

  • Room in Sapa for 230 USD.
  • Motorbike rental in Sapa for 32 USD.

- Car to Mu Cang Chai. $170 USD.

- Room in Mu Cang Chai for 120 USD

- Room 110, Hanoi

- Hanoi car 150 us

  • Motorbike for sale. 50 USD.

- Taxi to airport: $22 USD



Total cost: 1144 USD for 6 people



Approximately USD 190 per person, or around 6,700 Thai Baht.

Excluding meals, the average cost per meal is 100 baht.

The cost of flights varied among individuals, ranging from 2,500 to 4,500 baht.

We had to leave the hotel early in the morning to catch our early morning AirAsia flight back to Thailand.

A Thrilling Misadventure: 6 Days and 5 Nights Chasing Rice Terraces in Sapa and Mu Cang Chai

This is the story of a 6-day, 5-night adventure chasing the breathtaking rice terraces of Sapa and Mu Cang Chai, a journey filled with unexpected turns, delightful confusion, and a touch of disorientation that ultimately led to an unforgettable experience.

Thank you to everyone who joined the trip for sharing this joyful experience together.



In conclusion,

Every journey, beyond the destination and the stories along the way, holds significance.



"Travel companions" are another important factor that can significantly impact the level of enjoyment experienced during each trip.



On this Sapa - Mu Cang Chai trip, my fellow travelers made this trip one of the most memorable. Even though we encountered various problems, we worked together to solve them and overcome the challenges.



See you again on my next adventure with TummengTravel / Backpack Cool Around the World. Until next time!

You can follow my journey on my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Tummengtravel

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