"I've been there many times and I've never seen anything like this before." "Why didn't we see this when we went?" "I've never seen anything so beautiful." These were just some of the comments that flooded my Facebook page after I posted a picture of the sea of mist at Kew Mae Pan, Doi Inthanon National Park, in late November.

Yes, I was very lucky to witness the magnificent spectacle of Kew Mae Pan. But I also want to say that it took me four trips to get this shot. (Haha…)



This trip came about because at the end of November, her companion had three days and two nights off. They booked a bus ticket to Chiang Mai without a specific destination in mind. They happened to see a Facebook feed that said it was already cold on Doi Inthanon, so they decided to try their luck with the sea of mist at Kew Mae Pan again. They had been disappointed three times before, encountering both thick white fog and completely clear skies with no sign of mist.

The sole purpose of this trip is to get straight to business as soon as we arrive.

(1)

Every time I climb Doi Inthanon, I always ride a motorcycle. I use the services of my regular rental shop, Bikky, at the Arcade branch of the Chiang Mai Passenger Transport Station. This time, I chose a Honda Click because Doi Inthanon is not difficult to climb. I can tie my backpack and tent to the back of the bike and still have a more comfortable seat than a manual transmission car.

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This time, I didn't plan to visit many places. After leaving the arcade, I headed straight to Doi Inthanon. The easiest and shortest route is Highway 108, which passes through Hang Dong, San Pa Tong, Doi Lo, and Chom Thong before turning right to ascend the mountain. However, I have a slight suggestion before entering Highway 108. From Chiang Mai, head towards the Royal Flora Ratchaphruek Park and Ton Kwen Intersection to connect to Road Chm. 3035, bypassing Hang Dong and San Pa Tong until it meets Highway 108 after passing San Pa Tong District. The distance is longer, but the road is clear and was recently completed, making for a comfortable drive and saving a lot of time.

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After a leisurely ride, stopping for a meal and coffee, we reached the Mae Klang Waterfall National Park checkpoint before ascending to Inthanon. We paid the entrance fee: 50 baht for adults and 20 baht for motorcycles.


After that, drive uphill to Khun Klang village to find a campsite (there are roadworks in a few sections, so be careful and patient). There are many campsites in this area, with Doi Chaua and Chonlathar View being the most famous. There are also three or four other private campsites. However, as a park enthusiast, I don't have to think much, I always stay at the Dong Son campsite in Doi Inthanon National Park.

To camp at Dong Son Campground, you must first register at the tourist service center located at the park headquarters. The camping fee is 30 baht per person per day. If you need to rent a tent and sleeping mat, you can also do so at the service center. Once you have registered, take your fee receipt to the campground, which is about 400 meters away. Pillows, blankets, and charcoal stoves can be rented at the campground.

"The location is well-chosen and spacious. The weather is cool and comfortable. There are a moderate number of tourists, but it's not crowded."

We spent the day relaxing at the campsite, enjoying the afternoon sun. As evening approached, we ventured out for a local Doi specialty: a 400 baht per set mu kratha (Thai BBQ) feast at a restaurant overlooking Doi Inthanon. The two of us left with full bellies and satisfied taste buds.



On the way back to the campsite, we stopped to take some pictures of the Ban Khun Klang house. The lights from the flower beds looked beautiful, with the mountains and Siriphum Waterfall in the background.

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The day was filled with anticipation. We woke up a little before four in the morning to give her some time to get ready. Just after five, we rode our motorbike through the cold air up to Kew Mae Pan, a distance of 14 kilometers. The first part of the road was under construction, so there was a lot of dust.

The car park offered ample time to fill our stomachs. Facing the Mae Pan Cliff, two restaurants offered rice porridge, grilled pork, grilled chicken, and other small bites. It's worth noting that the restaurant on the left – facing the cliff – is the better option. With temperatures in the single digits, enjoying a hot meal felt truly satisfying.

After finishing our meal, we walked to a scenic viewpoint by the road to watch the sunrise. The sunrise was beautiful, but there was no fog. However, when we turned to look at the road we had come up, we were amazed to see that it was completely covered in fog. We knew then that our wish for a foggy morning had finally come true.

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The sun had yet to peek over the horizon as seven o'clock approached. Impatient, my mind drifted to the sea of mist at Kiw Mae Pan. Unable to wait any longer, I decided to abandon my wait for the sunrise and head towards the mist-shrouded mountain pass instead.

Hiking Regulations on the Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail

The Kew Mae Pan Nature Trail has straightforward regulations:

  • Local Guide Requirement: All visitors must be accompanied by a local (Hmong) guide at all times.
  • Restricted Independent Hiking: Hiking independently is strictly prohibited, regardless of experience level.

These regulations serve two primary purposes:

  1. Community Income Generation: By requiring local guides, the trail generates income for the surrounding community.
  2. Environmental Protection: Guides act as guardians of the trail, ensuring visitors adhere to regulations and preventing damage to the ecosystem.

The cost of a guide for a group of tourists is 200 baht. If you want to find someone to join your group, you can wait at the front entrance and agree on a price.


The trail is approximately three kilometers long with some steep sections. The viewpoint is located at the halfway point, approximately 1.5 kilometers from the start. The forest at Kiew Mae Pan is breathtakingly beautiful. Along the way, there are informative signs explaining the natural features of the area, as is typical of national parks.


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Approximately half an hour later, we arrived at the seventh viewpoint, known as the "semi-alpine meadow." This was the first spot where we could truly greet the sea of mist at Kew Mae Pan. I wanted to scream with joy! (laughter)


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With quick steps, we hurried to the viewpoint, and heaven appeared before our eyes. A fluffy sea of fog stretched as far as the eye could see, completely engulfing Mae Chaem below.




How beautiful is it? It's so beautiful that the Hmong girl guide picked up her phone to take videos and photos, just as many as we did. "It's the most beautiful day ever," she said. I was so happy to hear that.



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We spent nearly forty minutes admiring the beauty at the viewpoint, taking pictures until we didn't know what angle to capture anymore, before continuing our walk. The sea of fog remained thick and soft along the entire cliff face.




As we reach the point where the twin Phra Maha That Chedi, namely Phra Maha That Naphamethinidon and Phra Maha That Naphaphonphumisri, come into view, it signifies the moment we must bid farewell to the sea of mist. The path cuts back into the forest once more. Allow me to linger here for a while, gazing at the sight.


After a 40-minute walk, we returned to the entrance of the Kew Mae Pan Nature Study Trail (a circular route that returns to the starting point). We spent a total of 2 hours and 45 minutes inside, which was well worth it.

Mission accomplished, satisfied, and happy. What should we do next? After we came out to eat sticky rice with grilled pork and chicken until we were full, we invited her to climb the mountaintop, which is another two kilometers away. There is another nature study trail there, Ang Ka. It's an easy walk, not as tiring as the Mae Pan Waterfall. The most beautiful time to visit is during the rainy season when there is fog, lushness, and greenery. But it's still a good time to visit now.

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It didn't take long to walk around Ang Ka. We both agreed to go back to sleep for a while. On the way down, there was another view that made us gasp. The sea of fog along the way did not disappear. Looking at the clock, it was already 12:40 p.m.

After a short rest, we decided to explore another nature trail in Doi Inthanon National Park: Pha Dok Siew Waterfall in Mae Klang Luang Village. We expected the waterfall to be more impressive than when we visited in mid-January, as the rainy season would have brought more water.

Mae Klang Luang is a Karen village located approximately five kilometers before Khun Klang village. To hike this trail, contact the Som Sak Cafe inside the village. The cost is 200 baht per group for a guide and 200 baht for a car to take you to the starting point of the trail along the road. You can usually walk in and make arrangements, but if you want to call ahead to be sure, you can call the number in the picture.

The trail here is easy, with only descents. The waterfall cascades down in several tiers, creating a refreshing and scenic view.

Strolling along, taking photos on every level, it took about an hour to reach the highlight of Pha Dok Siew Waterfall, also known as the "Love Waterfall" by many, as it was the location for a famous movie of the same name. Taking photos was quite challenging due to the constant water spray, but the results were not bad.

After the waterfall, we entered the area of terraced rice fields (which are now all harvested). We returned to the coffee shop, where they offered us a free coffee tasting. It was a high-quality product from Mae Klang Luang, and I can assure you that coffee lovers will be hooked.

That's all for today. Three nature trails and a spectacular sea of mist, just as we had hoped.

(3)

The alarm clock went off at four in the morning. I got up and stretched, shaking off the drowsiness. The sea of fog yesterday may have been satisfying, but I am a greedy person when it comes to experiencing nature. So why would I waste another morning? I decided to try my luck again at the Kew Mae Pan viewpoint.

This time, we will slightly change our plan and walk to the inner viewpoint to enjoy the morning light. (The gate usually opens at 6:00 AM, but if you want to see the sunrise at the Phra Maha Chedi, you can arrange with a guide to enter before that. As for me, I just went to the viewpoint and started walking at 6:00 AM, which was enough.)

Before entering the mountain pass, we stopped at the helicopter landing pad to take a quick picture of the sea of stars. The morning air was a chilly three degrees, sending a shiver down our spines.

Upon reaching the viewpoint, we immediately rushed to capture the breathtaking scenery. Although the fog was not as dense as the previous day, the sky was bathed in a myriad of colors. More importantly, arriving early allowed us to enjoy the view with minimal crowds, eliminating the need to compete for photo opportunities.

With this kind of lighting, you can't go wrong with rapid shutter clicks; every shot will be stunning.

The influx of tourists gradually increased, prompting us to move on and allow others to experience the beauty. Upon reaching a vantage point overlooking the Phra Maha Chedi, we were awestruck. While the sea of fog on the Mae Chaem side was not particularly dense, the other side was simply breathtaking.

Upon returning outside, this is what we saw. Please provide your own commentary. (Laughter...)

Our return bus ticket was for the evening, so we had plenty of time to spare. We finished packing our belongings and tent by 1 pm, so we decided to make a quick detour to Mae Ya Waterfall, another highlight of Doi Inthanon. Judging by the water volume at Wachirathan Waterfall yesterday, we were confident that Mae Ya would be stunning at this time.

Mae Ya Waterfall: A Hidden Gem in Doi Inthanon National Park

Nestled within the majestic Doi Inthanon National Park, Mae Ya Waterfall offers a refreshing escape from the bustling city life. Located on the opposite side of the mountain from the main ascent route, this hidden gem awaits exploration.

To reach Mae Ya Waterfall, descend from Doi Inthanon towards Chom Thong district. Just before reaching the main highway (Route 108), you will encounter a three-way intersection. Take a right turn, following the signs for the waterfall. The journey continues for approximately 16 kilometers, leading you through scenic landscapes.

As you approach the waterfall, the sound of cascading water fills the air, inviting you to immerse yourself in its natural beauty. The cascading waters plunge over towering cliffs, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. The surrounding lush greenery provides a tranquil ambiance, perfect for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Mae Ya Waterfall is a true gem within Doi Inthanon National Park, offering a unique and refreshing experience for nature enthusiasts. Its accessibility and proximity to Chom Thong district make it an ideal destination for a day trip or a weekend getaway.

Please note that the park entrance fee you paid at Doi Inthanon National Park is valid for the entire park, including Mae Ya Waterfall. You do not need to pay again at the Mae Ya Waterfall checkpoint.

From the parking lot, it's less than a kilometer walk to Mae Ya Waterfall. The beauty of the waterfall is evident in the pictures. In my opinion, this is one of the most beautiful and easily accessible waterfalls in the area. If you have time during your visit to Doi Inthanon, don't miss it.

The three-day, two-night mission to hunt for fog at Kew Mae Pan was a success. In addition to the various natural attractions and trails mentioned in this review, Doi Inthanon also boasts numerous other tourist destinations, including Mae Klang Waterfall, Sirithan Waterfall, Wachirathan Waterfall, Siribhumi Waterfall, the Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon, Doi Pha Tang, the Slipper Orchid Conservation Center, and Khun Wang, a popular spot for observing King Tigers.

Every winter, I always think of Doi Inthanon. And even though I'm already enjoying the sea of fog this time, I can assure you that this won't be my last visit. See you again when I feel like it.

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A Life at Traveller

# Chiang Mai# Kiw Mae Pan
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