It's almost a year since my last trip to Doi Pui, Ban Huay Hee, Mae Hong Son. The last time, the sky was cloudy, so this time I packed my bags and set off with determination. Before I left, I contacted the Ban Huay Hee community. Since I was traveling alone, I asked them to pick me up on a motorbike at the Coffee Morning shop. This time, I had less time, so I chose to camp at the Doi Pui campsite instead of staying at a homestay in Ban Huay Hee like last year. You can contact the Ban Huay Hee community through their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/cbt.huayhee/
The driver, Suthi, prepared us for a rough ride before we started our descent. However, the road conditions were even worse than expected due to ongoing construction. Fortunately, our driver was highly skilled and familiar with the terrain, allowing us to navigate the treacherous path with minimal difficulty. We encountered a few instances of wheel slippage, but Suthi expertly maintained control of the vehicle. While we managed to capture some footage of the initial descent, the conditions became too challenging to continue filming. During both the ascent and descent, we prioritized safety by holding on with both hands to avoid falling onto Suthi or tipping over. For the entire trip, we relied on the local community for transportation to and from Mae Hong Son city.
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Upon disembarking, my legs were very stiff, and my right arm was also very sore. Initially, I used my left hand to film the video. This time, we were able to rest at the village headman's house, where we were warmly welcomed. Many people still remembered us from our previous visit. The local community continues to welcome tourists with warm hospitality. The weather was cold throughout the day. Later, it was time for lunch. There was an abundance of food prepared for us. Fortunately, Chimu (the leader of the Huai Hee tourism group) and Sutin joined us for the meal.
While eating, Chimu shared that some tourists had secretly climbed Doi Pui without going through the community. The top was littered with their trash. They had also taken wood from the path leading to the pavilion built at the campsite to use as firewood. If they had contacted the community, a community guide would have gone up to help them find firewood, drinking water, water for the toilets, and manage the garbage before they descended the mountain. While waiting for the rice to cook, we talked about many other things. The Ban Huai Hee tourism community has been around for 22 years because everyone talks to each other about everything. They also ask tourists for feedback.
Before ascending Doi Pui, Father Luang, Baan, and Pa Ti (uncle), where we stayed on our previous visit, also offered blessings for God's protection. This area is inhabited by the Pga K'nyaw people who are Christians. The shorter route to the top requires a motorbike ride for over a kilometer. It's time to test our physical condition after recovering from illness. The community has cleared and maintained the access route, making it accessible to everyone. However, it's crucial to avoid venturing up alone. In case of an accident, the community would be significantly impacted. This time, there are signs providing various details.
The first missing rule is the prohibition of bringing any alcoholic beverages into Huay Hee Village and Doi Pui Summit. This is a crucial rule for the village, and no villagers drink alcohol. The sign disappeared shortly after it was installed. On the way up, our guide, Nong, asked us to lead the way. We carried our own backpacks, while Nong carried the tent, dinner and breakfast, pots, bowls, bamboo cups, banana leaves, and drinking water. We walked and rested along the way. The 2.2-kilometer trail was not difficult.
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It takes 50 minutes to walk to the campsite. The pavilion on the right side has been almost completely dismantled to make firewood.
After a short break, our guide, Suthi, went to gather wood for firewood. He then went to fetch water for cooking (drinking water was brought separately) and water for the bathroom. We explored the nearby area, walking around and observing the surroundings.
After a while, our younger companion arrived and started the fire. It was surprisingly easy, and the flames ignited quickly. If it had been us, it would have taken much longer. We then began setting up the tent, but we soon realized that one of the tent poles was missing. We discussed sleeping next to the fire, but our companion insisted on finding a solution. After a short search, they returned with two small bamboo sticks, which they used to replace the missing pole. They even had enough leftover to use as tent pegs.
After everything was settled, it was already past 4 pm. My younger sibling took me to watch the sunset (the last time we couldn't go up because the sky was completely covered). This time, we were hoping for clear skies. When we reached the top, the wind was so strong that it was cold. We waited for a long time to see the sunset, but all we got was a glimpse of light through the clouds.
We waited for hours for the sunset, but all we got was this. It was also very cold. In the end, we went down to our tents and talked until we found out that we were the only ones who had slept on Doi Pui. However, there were three other tourists who were staying at a homestay and would be coming up to watch the sunrise in the morning.
The evening at Doi Pui wasn't too exciting, and we had to come down to cook dinner. The local guide asked if we wanted to eat something simple first, and then she would boil water for us to have coffee to warm up. During dinner, we talked about community tourism in Ban Huay Hee and other communities in Mae Hong Son province. Finally, unable to bear the cold any longer, we crawled into our tent while the local guide decided to sleep in a hammock next to the fire. We made an appointment for 5:30 AM the next morning. After falling asleep for a while, we heard the sound of the bells around the buffalo's neck. The guide woke up and chased the buffalo away, while we continued sleeping. In the middle of the night, when it was very cold, we woke up to the sound of animal footsteps running away from where we were staying. We found out the next morning from the local guide that it was a wild animal, but she wasn't sure what kind. We didn't follow it. We immediately thought about what we would do if we had come up here on our own and encountered a wild animal without a local guide to help us. This is the forest, and there are many wild animals here, the guide said.
The next day, we woke up at 4:45 AM and went to the bathroom to wash our faces and brush our teeth in the cold air. We waited for the group to meet at 5:30 AM. We heard the sound of tourists coming up, and we were ready. Our younger brother woke up with his eyes wide open, and we started walking up after the group that had gone ahead. When we passed the line of trees, the light started to come up. It was a good thing we hurried up and walked so we could catch the light and see the fog around Doi Pui. The peak of Doi Pui is 1,772 meters above sea level, the highest in Mae Hong Son district.
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This angle shows the thick sea of fog covering the city of Mae Hong Son.
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The sun is shining brightly, so it's time to have some fun.
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The local guide invited us to descend from the other side of Doi Pui to see the edge of the Doi Pui tourist area, Ban Huay Hee, which borders the national park. During the descent, there was some apprehension, as a fall could have resulted in a long slide. However, upon reaching the lowest point between the two peaks, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view.
Climbing one more peak will take you to the end of the Ban Huai Hee community tourism area. Below is the national park area.
Throughout the 22 years that the Ban Huai Hee community has been operating, the younger generation has shared that tourism funds have been allocated for the construction of seating and a photo platform at Pha Phiang Fa (a name given by the previous governor of Mae Hong Son province).
Continuing on to descend back to the campsite, we encountered a campfire left behind by individuals who had illegally ascended and camped in an exposed area without any wind protection. They had also carelessly discarded empty alcohol cans. Our community guide was forced to collect and dispose of the litter. A little further down, we came face to face with a water buffalo, seemingly annoyed by our intrusion upon its feeding time.
Continuing down to the flower field, it will be in full bloom on the mountain every year at the end of October. We went in December both times, so we got the atmosphere as seen.
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Gazing back at Doi Pui before descending.
Upon reaching the campsite, the local guide prepared a simple breakfast of coffee, milk, toast, and grilled sausages over a wood fire. The aroma of the wood added a unique flavor to the meal, making it a delightful experience.
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Once we were full, it was time to pack up the tent and our belongings and prepare to descend the mountain. We went down in one go without stopping. Along the way, we stopped to take pictures of various things.
Upon reaching the motorbike parking area, we allowed our younger companion to rest for a moment while we also took a break. During this time, we explored the surroundings a little further.
Upon arriving at the house, the wife of the village headman greeted us with a "Tà bơ lưr" (meaning "hello"). She then offered us salted tea, a local specialty. As we sipped the tea, we savored its fragrant aroma and subtle salty flavor.
A hearty breakfast soon arrived, and the village headman invited us to eat freely. The rice wrapped in banana leaves was fragrant, and all the dishes were delicious. I was particularly impressed by the chili paste.
The meal concludes with a local custom of serving sour oranges, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The sourness perfectly balanced the saltiness from the salt, making it so delicious that I almost finished it all.
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Friday, November 8, 2024 4:30 PM