Follow me into the forest: Tad Nang Nee, Tad Nam Phak, Tad Fang.

Follow me, I will take you into the forest.

Between April 13-16, 2018.

Number of travelers: 12

Location: Ban Nong Luang, Pak Song, Champasak Province, Lao PDR

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Day 1: Chong Mek Border Checkpoint

"Is it necessary to visit all three waterfalls: Tad Nung, Tad Nam Phak, and Tad Fhang?" This question swirled in my head, almost escaping my lips as my fellow travelers packed their bags and prepared their passports and fees for the border crossing at Chong Mek in Laos.

"Backpack on, luggage in hand, we set off for the border crossing! We were ready for a 3-night, 4-day adventure. This kind of experience is hard to come by unless you do it yourself. This thought ran through my head as I walked in to hand over my passport, grinning at the officer."

Crossing the Border: A Matter of Looks and Luck

The cost of crossing the border into Laos via the Mekong checkpoint varied depending on one's appearance and the photo on their passport. While 200 baht might seem reasonable, it could be considered neither cheap nor expensive compared to the 100 baht others paid. This discrepancy highlights the potential for subjective pricing based on physical attributes and the whims of officials.

Those with attractive photos on their passports, especially when interacting with male officials, might receive a discount. Conversely, individuals with less friendly-looking photos could face inflated fees exceeding the standard rate. As witnessed, a fellow traveler ended up paying 300 baht, demonstrating the arbitrary nature of the pricing system.

After lugging my backpack and loading it onto the songthaew, I glanced at the driver. A thought crossed my mind: Would we reach our destination on time? My hands gripped the railing tightly, my legs tensed, and my toes curled. I squinted slightly. I had made a mistake. The driver must have been a street racer in the past, or perhaps he was just a fan of the famous Fast & Furious franchise!

The screech of brakes echoed through the gas station as the driver announced, "Restroom break!" I wiped the sweat from my brow and stepped out of the car. To my surprise, I spotted an Amazon Cafe! The allure of trying a local Thai coffee brand in a foreign land was too tempting to resist. Yes, in Pakse, there's a PTT gas station and an Amazon Cafe! It felt like home, a comforting familiarity. Conveniently, they accept both Lao Kip and Thai Baht, but only in banknotes.

Along the road, you will find old wooden houses lined up along the street, interspersed with new houses. The old houses are single-story wooden houses raised on stilts, made of wood and roofed with galvanized iron. The new houses, on the other hand, are modern single-story houses with tiled roofs and porches at the front, with eye-catching colors. However, almost all of them seem to have been designed by the same person.

Nearly two hours had passed, and the car was still speeding towards Pakxong, Champasak Province. Both sides of the road were lined with coffee trees, both large and small. Pakse and Pakxong, in southern Laos, are the domain of Madame Daoreuang, owner of Dao Coffee. Almost all the land in the area is used to grow coffee, which is sold exclusively to Dao Coffee. It wouldn't be wrong to say that she has a monopoly, as she is the sole buyer.

The songthaew slowly turned right and headed straight to Ban Nong Luang. On the left, you can see the Lao-Vietnamese War Memorial, which was built to commemorate the joint struggle against the great powers in the past. It's a pity that I didn't have the chance to take a closer look.

"Red-headed road! This road is black and red, with cars rushing through the dust. It's a pity for the villagers who drive motorcycles and bicycles along the way, who are covered in red dust. Some even have to stop their vehicles to let the dust settle before continuing. As for the houses along the road, they can hardly open their doors and windows. Looking back at our house, how lucky we are that the road is relatively dust-free, with only potholes scattered throughout the country like meteor craters."

As everyone packed their belongings and changed into appropriate clothing, they prepared to embark on a trek to Base Camp, which would serve as their overnight accommodation. The residence of the village headman in Nong Luang is a mandatory stopover for all tourists, where they can leave their belongings. On the return journey, they must spend another night here, as the headman's residence also functions as a homestay. Any non-essential items should be left behind to avoid unnecessary weight during the trek into the forest.

8 kilometers! The first leg of our journey to base camp was on foot. Everyone looked fit and determined, ready for the trek, despite not getting much sleep on the overnight bus. Even the late-morning boxed lunch wasn't a deterrent. Except for one thing: before crossing the border into Laos, we had a run-in with a street vendor selling durian!

"Who would have thought that a fruit vendor located near the Kasikorn Thai Bank would possess such incredible peeling skills, leaving us all in awe? The more we think about it, the funnier it gets, becoming the running joke of our trip. It all started with a simple durian..."

"Glancing at the watch on his wrist, Plang let out a soft sigh. "Whew, it's only been 5 kilometers, but it feels like I've been walking for half a day." "Let's rest here for a bit," Pin, the little leader, shouted with a small smile. We plopped down, smiling wryly. "Mhm, your voice is like a blessing from heaven," Plang said, clearly relieved."

"Before leaving the village elder's house, we each received two small bottles of drinking water for the journey. We were advised to sip rather than gulp it down! If you can't picture it, imagine sipping liquor, as our guide, Mr. Tong, vividly explained. "Why sip?" I thought to myself. "It's to avoid running out of water," Mr. Tong replied, as if reading my mind.

The base camp, located next to a small stream with a constant flow of water, is an ideal resting spot. However, the tent site slopes downwards, making it difficult to set up tents and sleep comfortably. Despite this inconvenience, the camp offers stunning views with a river in front and mountains behind. The only major issue encountered was the presence of leeches, which can be a nuisance.

6:30 PM. The sound of branches being cut, grass being cleared, and the area being prepared for setting up tents has ended. Along with the sound of screams, we had to donate blood to the local owner, the leech! Believe it or not, while setting up the tent, I flicked leeches off my feet and legs. Trust me, there are a lot of them. It's probably because it's a humid rainforest area, next to a stream, and it rains almost all year round. There's probably nowhere leeches like more than this place.

As darkness descends and the forest falls silent, the chirping of birds and insects fills the air. The nocturnal creatures awaken, embarking on their nightly routines. We gather around the central tent, sharing stories of our day's adventures and reminiscing about our studies.

The laughter began to rise, drowning out the sound of insects! But the screams, bang, pulling the little leech off the leg, and the mat were equally loud! The smell of mosquito repellent filled the air around there. It wasn't mosquito repellent, but leech repellent. It was sprayed on the leech when it was sucking our blood. When it was sprayed, it would shrink and fall off.

Chef Pin, the designated chef for the trip, personally prepared the dishes and brought them into the tent. "Yay! The food is here!" Tij, one of the group members, exclaimed excitedly. "It looks so cute, adorable, and delicious! I'm going to have seconds today," Tij said, taking a bite of rice.

The reader heard correctly: stir-fried kale with oyster sauce, stir-fried meatballs, and omelets! On a mountain, in the wilderness! Eating so well? Yes, sir! I confirm it again, and it's delicious. But that's not so strange because Pin runs a food stall in Rayong! But wait, there's more: mangoes with sweet fish sauce!

As the clock strikes 9 pm, it's time for an activity that fosters closer connections and formal introductions. Don't be surprised; the unique charm of this trip lies in the fact that we are all strangers to each other! This very unfamiliarity is what makes it so exciting.

..Just on the first day, we had a lot of fun. Let's see what we will encounter tomorrow....

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DAY 2

14 kilometers to Tad Nam Phak and Tad Nangu!

The cool morning air, neither hot nor cold, was a welcome change. I twisted in my sleeping bag, peering out of the tent. The lush green forest was a feast for the eyes. The sound of the stream gurgling over the rocks was soothing, and the birdsong filled my ears with a sense of lightness and peace. It was a far cry from the hustle and bustle of city life. I couldn't remember the last time I had taken a deep breath and filled my lungs with such fresh air.

"The aroma of 3in1 instant coffee wafted through the air! In the morning, with such an atmosphere, who wouldn't want to enjoy a cup of coffee or hot tea? Where else can we find such moments? Oh, the Deputy Secretary-General murmured as he sipped his coffee from a wooden cup, "Where else can we find such experiences? Unless we travel? Books? The internet? We can only see, but not touch."

08:30 AM: Scheduled departure time for Tad Nam Phak and Tad Nang Nee.

Last night, we had a thorough discussion with the porters to ensure a clear understanding of the travel schedule. We will prepare water from the stream, pack lunch, and gather essential items to carry. We will also need to leave some belongings in the tent, as today's round trip will cover 14-15 kilometers!

"Not ready, Atich!" As everyone was ready to leave, except "Atich," who just emerged from the condo (a hammock tied in layers), shouting for everyone to wait. Atich is a young man, scruffy, with a bushy beard and a stern, unfriendly face. But... he just got it!

This mountain is tall and steep, with a 75-degree incline. We have been traveling for over two hours. The mountains we have passed have been both high and steep. The terrain in southern Laos is mountainous and rocky. Each step must be taken carefully to avoid falling or slipping on loose rocks, which can be quite dangerous. As a result, our progress is slow. We have only crossed two mountains so far!

The climate is humid, with moss, ferns, and algae clinging to rocks and trees along the trail. Naturally, when the forest is abundant, we can find strange creatures everywhere, especially slugs! Some are large, some are small, depending on whether they are full of blood or not!

As she sat admiring the beauty of nature beneath a large tree, an engaging conversation began. "Bow," a petite, curvy woman with bright red lips, shared her story.

Last night, while brushing my teeth by the stream, I suddenly felt goosebumps. The atmosphere seemed strange, as if someone was watching me. On top of that, a foul smell hit my nose.

I had to quickly wash my face and brush my teeth so I could hurry back to the tent. I was scared!

Bow quickly packed her things and was about to run back after brushing her teeth, but...?

"A voice! A voice calling out, Bow!!!"

"What happens next?" Nune, one of the travelers, asked. Those who stayed to listen screamed and ran into their tents.

"Three kilometers ahead, we reach a fork in the road. The left path leads to Tad Nang Nee, while the right path leads to Tad Nam Phak. Due to the longer distance to Tad Nam Phak, we decide to prioritize it first, saving Tad Nang Nee for the return journey when we will be closer. With everyone in agreement, we follow the guidance of Pi Ham, our experienced porter, and proceed towards Tad Nam Phak."

"It was almost one o'clock in the afternoon, and we still hadn't stopped walking or eaten. We were still climbing Pai!!" This is according to Ham, our porter, who said, "The path we are climbing is not a path for people, but a path for hunters! Because it is steep and overgrown, we have to climb, grab rocks, and pull ourselves up with vines!!"

"Regrettably, I glanced at my wristwatch, only to find its screen shattered! Scratches adorned my arm, blood trickling down its length. Yes, I had just tumbled and collided with a rock, sustaining both injuries and damage! Pin, our young leader, approached to inspect the wounds, offering a reassuring smile. "It's nothing serious, just a few scrapes," he declared before promptly wiping the blood from my arm!"

"This is too much for a beginner," I muttered under my breath as I reached out to help Nune, my petite sister, who was struggling to climb over a fallen tree trunk.

"Entering the bamboo forest indicates that we are close to Tad Nam Phak. Just cross the hill in front and we will be there," said Brother Bum, pointing his finger, even though he had never been there himself! Karma is a great way to give encouragement, brother. I would like to give you a thumbs up, but my hands are busy holding onto the edge of the cliff!

Finally! We did it! Yes, we made it! It took more than 6 hours to travel! I'm proud of myself. I'm happy for my legs, liver, kidneys, intestines, and stomach that helped me fight through it all until I found you...Tad Nam Phak!!

Translation:

In this moment, everyone sits down and gazes upon the magnificent scene before them. Silence reigns, broken only by the sound of water cascading over rocks and the wind whispering through the mountain pass, scattering fine mist throughout the air. Trust me, you will cherish this moment, this "happiness," as I call it.

Note:

Tad Nam Phak

There are a total of 4 floors. We are on the 4th floor, which offers a view of the 3 remaining floors, which are the most beautiful!

The Journey of Water: From Forest to Mekong

The cascading waters of Tad Nam Phak originate from the lush forests of Dong Hu Sa, plunging into a ravine below. This natural wonder, known as Tad Nam Phak, then flows onward to Tad Nang Nee, where it joins the mighty Huay Tuay River. This river serves as a collector for the abundant waters of other waterfalls in the Bolaven Plateau, before finally emptying into the Mekong River. This captivating description, delivered in the distinct dialect of Pak Song, paints a vivid picture of the interconnectedness of water and landscape in this region.

Lost in the moment of joy, we completely forgot how we would return...

Day 2: Wilderness, Darkness, and Us

Happiness often passes quickly. When we immerse ourselves in nature, gazing at the cascading waterfalls, we fall into a trance, captivated by the beauty and grandeur. Nature is truly magnificent, far beyond our human comprehension or control. As we sit and let our minds wander, following the flow of the water, we find ourselves contemplating a multitude of thoughts. If we have the opportunity, let's try something different. Instead of simply sitting and drinking amidst the waterfalls or nature, let's sit and appreciate, letting our minds and thoughts flow freely with the natural world. It will be a far more delightful experience.

As darkness descends, we must make haste to exit the forest before nightfall. The unknown dangers of the jungle at night, with its unfamiliar terrain and nocturnal predators, make it imperative to leave before complete darkness sets in. An hour has passed since we departed from the watering hole, and we must continue our relentless march.

The atmosphere grew quiet as the air turned cool. "We need to conserve water. We only have one bottle left, and we need to share it sparingly. Otherwise, we'll run out before we reach the camp, and we'll be in trouble," warned P'Tong, his hand reaching to turn on his flashlight. "We won't make it back in time. It's dark now. Everyone, take out your flashlights and walk in a single file line. If you don't have a flashlight, walk next to someone who does."

The sky was overcast, pitch black. There was no other sound except for the sound of breathing, sighing, and exhaling fatigue. No one spoke! We all quickened our pace. The leeches, which we used to fear, the small creatures we used to be afraid of, we forgot all about them. We were more afraid of the larger animals. "Let's take a break, my legs feel like they're going to cramp up," said Wut, the senior member, as he patted his shoulder and collapsed to the ground.

"5 people were left behind." While we were resting, we watched the light of our 7 friends who continued walking ahead, disappearing into the distance. We decided to let them continue walking so as not to waste time. We took a break to sip water and massage our stiff legs to get them ready before continuing.

"We have to thank Atit!! He made us laugh and cheered us up, making us forget our fatigue and fear, but instead made us want to kick and stomp..." Why, you ask! While walking, he suddenly farted, the sound echoing at intervals. It wasn't a problem at all. Just fart if you have to, unless Atit wasn't walking at the front!! The deep breaths that used to release fatigue turned into silence as everyone held their breath!!

Don't be surprised why we fart when we run or walk. When we run or walk, our intestines move. We breathe through our mouths more than our noses. When more air comes in, but less goes out, it can't be released in time, so we fart to release the gas in our stomachs instead. This is very normal when walking or running.

7 going, 7 returning, don't think otherwise! We were almost there, we could see the faint light of the campfire from the camp that the first group had built. When we were tired and exhausted, everything popped into our heads. We wanted to drink soda, ice water, bread with condensed milk, red soda, etc. We walked and talked, wanting to go, but forgetting that "this is in the forest, there's none of what I just said."

"The forest was quiet, the camp was quiet, everyone was quiet, no one was talking, but their mouths were moving, chewing farm house bread with condensed milk. Wow, we sat smiling at each other around the campfire, hearing only the sound of the burning wood crackling." We survived, said Tong, breathing a sigh of relief.

"Cabbage with sweet fish sauce, stir-fried mixed vegetables, stir-fried sweet and sour." Ordinary menu, but it was the most delicious night of our lives. "Pin, even though he's not a Michelin chef or an Iron Chef, his skills are top-notch in this forest because he's the only one! "Tell him I love him"!!

Despite the arduous climb, the night was still young. "We sat in a circle, sharing stories from our journey, filled with laughter and joy." Even Bow, hesitant to shower, was still haunted by the previous night's events.

Atit recounted, "Last night, while washing my feet in the stream, I saw Bow washing her face and brushing her teeth downstream. After finishing, I called out 'Bow' two or three times. She looked left and right, then ran away!"
"So it was the stench! Last night was..." Bow thought.
"Yes, the smell of my feet..."

"It took 11 hours, from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM, to travel round trip 14.5 kilometers to Tad Nam Phak!!" We encountered many new experiences and stories along the way. We missed several things, including Tad Nang Nee!! According to the program, we should have gone there, but time was short. But... it was a good experience!! This forest must want us to come back again to conquer Tad Nang Nee....

For tonight, let's rest our bodies and legs, ready for tomorrow's journey.