The Silk Road of Bangkok City

When we talk about the Silk Road, we often think of the historical trade route that transported goods, especially silk, from China to Europe. Or, we might think of the roti sai mai (Thai flatbread) sold on the street in front of Ayutthaya Hospital. But did you know that there is a Silk Road that is easily accessible for tourists, right here in Bangkok, the capital of Thailand? After visiting, I can say that it was beyond my expectations. Let's see what made this trip so unexpected.

This trip will introduce us to the silk of Jim Thompson House. Jim used this place as a workshop to develop silk work. The main source of silk that Jim used at that time was silk from the Ban Krua Nua community. We will see hand-woven silk at the house of Uncle Eeb, the inheritor of the Cham weaving wisdom, which has been famous for silk weaving since the beginning of the Rattanakosin period until the present. Next, we will visit Uncle Uud's house, who is an expert in silk dyeing, doing everything by hand. Finally, we will end at the IMMAS shop (currently), which tailored the first tie for Jim Thompson, located in the Haroon Mosque community, Bang Rak district.

Jim Thompson House

When it comes to silk, both Thais and foreigners are likely to think of the Jim Thompson brand first. Did you know that there is a Jim Thompson House Museum located in the heart of Bangkok, near the famous MBK shopping center? We, along with our friends and team, started our journey by walking from the National Stadium BTS station into Soi Kasemsan 2. In no time at all, we arrived at a small green space, the Jim Thompson House Museum.

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The area features traditional Thai houses and lush greenery, providing a welcome respite from the heat.

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While waiting for our guided tour of the museum, which costs 200 baht per person, let's take a stroll around the area. We can start at the Jim Thompson product store, which offers a wide variety of silk products, including bags, keychains, notebooks, neckties, pillowcases, and more. The products are all beautifully crafted and exude a sense of quality.

Upon arrival, we deposited our bags and shoes in the complimentary lockers and followed the guide into the museum. Photography was prohibited inside. The museum showcased Jim Thompson's exquisite home decor and personal collection, featuring artifacts dating back centuries. Among the exhibits, we were particularly captivated by a beautifully designed Benjarong wine jug, which initially surprised us with its intended purpose.

After soaking in the atmosphere at Jim Thompson House, we strolled along the banks of the Saen Saeb Canal, which runs alongside the house, and crossed the bridge to the Baan Krua Nua community.

Northern Thai Kitchen

The land in the Ban Krua Nuea community was granted by King Rama I to the Cham people for their assistance in the Nine Armies' War. Subsequently, silk weaving became a primary occupation for the community, earning them renown that continues to this day.

Our first stop is at Uncle Eeb's house.

Uncle Eib told us that in the past, the woven silk was mainly sold to Jim Thompson. In addition, people from Phra Pradaeng would come to buy it or sail to sell it themselves. Currently, they will go to various events such as the OTOP event, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs event, the Ministry of Commerce event, and export it abroad.

The silk weaving community of Ban Krua initially used a simple loom before transitioning to a more complex one. The community's most notable silk fabric is the **Sirindhorn yellow silk**, which surprised us with its softness and lack of stiffness. After feeling the Sirindhorn yellow silk, we were impressed by its softness, thinness, and beautiful golden yellow color. Uncle Eeb explained that special techniques are required to produce this fabric.

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Currently, the number of looms in Uncle Eib's house is less than 10. Weaving has decreased significantly compared to the past. This is due to the many changes that have occurred since Jim Thompson disappeared while traveling in Malaysia.

We witnessed the incredible sight of handloom weaving still practiced in the heart of Bangkok. Some even tried their hand at weaving, discovering that it is not as easy as it seems. This craft requires considerable experience.

We then walked to Uncle Oud's house, where he no longer weaves silk. He now only dyes silk, a skill he has learned since childhood and has practiced alongside silk weaving throughout his career. As times have changed, many things have shifted, and Uncle Oud has had to stop weaving silk. He now only dyes silk, and not as often as he used to.

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Uncle Uud briefly described the silk dyeing process, which consists of the following steps: soaking, boiling, dyeing, rinsing, and drying. He encouraged readers to experience the process firsthand to appreciate its complexity.

On the way out of Ban Krua Nuea community

Home Cuisine: An Islamic Restaurant

After exploring the silk industry at Ban Krua Nua community, we hopped on a tuk-tuk and zipped over to the French Embassy area for lunch at Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant.

Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant: A Fusion of Thai and Indian Flavors

Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant offers a unique dining experience, blending Thai and Indian culinary traditions into a flavorful fusion. The restaurant's commitment to halal practices ensures that all ingredients and preparation methods adhere to Islamic dietary guidelines.

The restaurant's atmosphere is welcoming and comfortable, with a focus on providing a relaxed and enjoyable dining experience. The menu features a variety of dishes that cater to different tastes and preferences.

For those who enjoy the bold flavors of Indian cuisine, the restaurant offers a selection of dishes that are sure to satisfy. The Chicken Biryani, a fragrant rice dish cooked with aromatic spices and tender chicken, is a popular choice. The Chicken Galia, a rich and creamy curry with tender chicken pieces, is another flavorful option.

However, for those who are new to Indian cuisine or prefer milder flavors, the restaurant also offers dishes that are less spicy and more familiar to Thai palates. The Khao Pad Sapparot, a stir-fried rice dish with pineapple and vegetables, is a lighter option that is still full of flavor. The Tom Yum Goong, a spicy and sour soup with shrimp, is another popular choice for those who enjoy Thai flavors.

Overall, Home Cuisine Islamic Restaurant offers a unique and enjoyable dining experience for those who are looking for a halal-friendly restaurant that serves a fusion of Thai and Indian cuisine. The restaurant's commitment to quality ingredients and flavorful dishes is sure to please both seasoned Indian food lovers and those who are new to the cuisine.

Before leaving, I caught a glimpse of desserts in the cabinet. They looked so tempting, but time was up for a big eater like me. I had to move on to explore other places, so I missed out. I'll sneak back for a bite another day.

IMMAS Restaurant

After lunch, we walked into the Haroon Mosque community. Not far in, we came across the IMMAS shop. This shop can be considered the origin of the first Jim Thompson ties. The tie-making here is done by hand in every process, and it's done with meticulous detail at every step! In particular, the step of cutting the entire piece of silk with sharp scissors in one go by the father of Mr. Im, who is already 80 years old, is amazing! His skills are truly outstanding! He is a master craftsman who is hard to find.

In addition to neckties, IMMAS's products now include shawls, silk boxes, picture frames, dolls, nano fabrics, and scented fabrics, which are supplied to clients both domestically and internationally.

Before leaving, we tried our hand at some small crafts and took them home as souvenirs.

Today was a truly enriching and fascinating experience exploring the "Silk Road of Bangkok: Jim Thompson House - Baan Krua Nua - IMMAS Shop." This hidden gem in the heart of Bangkok unveiled the secrets of silk, offering a captivating glimpse into the city's rich cultural heritage.

This Silk Road tourism route in Bangkok would not have been possible without the support of Local Alike, a community-based tourism operator dedicated to empowering local communities and promoting sustainable development. We would also like to express our gratitude to the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Bangkok Office, for their invaluable contribution.

For more information on this unique community tourism route, please visit Local Alike on Facebook or call 02-115-9861.