Life by the Canal: Crabbing, Fish Watching, Shellfish Gathering, and Exploring the Community of Pa Tiu (Bang Son) in AS45

Packing my bags for Chumphon... I must say, my heart always leaps with joy when I pack for Chumphon. I'm not sure why exactly, but it might be because this province on the Gulf of Thailand, nicknamed "400 Leagues of Beautiful Beaches" by the TAT, brings me happiness every time I visit.

And this time, too… I will tell you.

In mid-August, during the rainy season, I had the opportunity to participate in the TAT's "One Night Stay With Locals" activity, which aims to promote community-based tourism throughout Thailand. The assigned community was the Pa Tiu (Bang Son) tourism community in Chumphon Province.

Embark on a spontaneous community adventure with minimal planning. Simply contact the community, confirm your dates, and embark on your journey. Gather three friends and drive south from the capital to the land of 400 miles of stunning beaches. The destination, Phatthawi district, is conveniently located just a few kilometers beyond Prachuap Khiri Khan.

Welcome to Baan Mai Chaiy Klong

"Welcome! Please come in," said Jod, a member of the Bang Son Community Tourism Network in Phatthalung's Pa Tio district. He greeted the three of us who had just arrived at the Baan Mai Homestay, a traditional wooden house on stilts overlooking a canal. He then asked his wife, Kung, to bring us some refreshing cold water.

A cool breeze blows comfortably at the wooden house by the Bang Son Canal. Across the canal is a lush green mangrove forest. Looking along the canal, you will see mangrove forests covering the entire area. The peaceful and simple atmosphere makes you fall in love with it at first sight. Hammocks, swings, and a dining table with dangling legs create an atmosphere that invites you to roll around and fall asleep without having to think about anything.

Just as I was about to drift off to sleep, I was rudely awakened by a large and delicious lunch.

Our first meal at Baan Bang Son consisted of fried mackerel fritters, mackerel in banana leaf parcels, sour soup with snakehead fish, spicy shrimp paste dip with a variety of vegetables, and coconut water to drink. For dessert, we enjoyed fresh mangosteen that Jodd had split open for us. Everything was sourced from the local community.

At home, we eat whatever is available – do not underestimate this phrase. For the people of Bang Son, abundance ensures that they never lack food.

Wading through mud to find ark shells

After a delicious lunch, we relaxed and digested our food for a while. Then, Jod invited us to go on a boat trip to find some fan mussels. He said that the water level was low today, making it perfect for this kind of activity. Of course, we couldn't refuse.

We boarded a small long-tailed boat, with P'Pana, another member of the community, at the helm. The engine roared as we navigated the canal, lush greenery lining both sides. As we approached our destination, P'Pana steered the boat through a tunnel of nipa palm trees, coming to a stop at the edge of the forest.

First step sinking into the mud, half-calf deep (Ha…)

Wading through the mud into the mangrove forest, Jod demonstrates how to find ark shells, which often burrow shallowly near the base of the trees. Using a knife, he carefully slices through the thin layer of mud, creating long, parallel lines. When the knife hits a shell, it produces a cracking sound. Using this simple method, we were able to collect a significant number of ark shells.

"If you find one, you'll usually find another two nearby, as if they were living together. Some people call them 'paired snails,' which then become 'fan snails,'" explained Jod.

We returned from the boat with a haul of mussels, ready to be transformed into a variety of dishes: stir-fried with holy basil, stir-fried with curry paste, or simply boiled and dipped in seafood sauce. A short trip yielded a bounty, perfectly illustrating the "make do with what you have" philosophy of some coastal communities.

A peculiar cave... not peculiar but beautiful.

"Would you be interested in exploring a cave with me?" Jod asked as we returned to his wooden house by the canal. "It used to be a popular destination, but nowadays, not many people visit. I'd like to see more people discover it. I haven't taken anyone there yet."

The locals have presented this opportunity, how could we not respond?

The pickup truck, bearing the marks of its arduous journeys, navigated the winding alleys, passing through his orchard, until it reached the peculiar cave monastery, situated near the Kapor Waterfall National Park.

The cave is not as extraordinary as it seems, but it is truly beautiful. The path leading up to the cave, which may appear tiring, is not too challenging. It is a moderately steep climb, but only a few hundred meters long. With a couple of short breaks, you can easily reach the top. Additionally, the stairs are well-maintained. During the rainy season, the surroundings are a vibrant green, with moss, ferns, and lichens covering almost every surface. It is a breathtaking display of greenery, unlike anything you have ever seen before.

The cave has some electricity, but it's best to bring a flashlight. The cave is quite large and divided into four or five chambers. Each chamber has magnificent stalactites, stalagmites, and stone pillars. It's surprising that there aren't many tourists. I told Jod that with such a hidden gem, we should bring tourists here more often. Anyone who comes will surely love it.

After admiring the cave's beauty until around five in the evening, Jod informed us that it was time to return to our stilt houses by the canal. Since it wasn't raining, he suggested we enjoy a unique dining experience: a raft dinner along the canal, leading out to the sea.

Dinner on a floating raft

After a seafood-laden dinner of blue crab, grilled shrimp, fried pomfret, garlic-fried squid, sour curry with mackerel, and fried taro stem, our host, Mr. Phan, took the helm of the long-tailed boat, navigating the specially constructed dining raft along the Khlong Saen canal. A light drizzle fell, but it posed no problem.

The scenery on both sides of the river changed from mangrove forests to fishing communities, passing under a concrete bridge and then out to Khlong Son Beach.

"The sunset is breathtaking when the weather is good. It's a shame the sky is overcast today," said Kung with a wry smile, lamenting the lack of vibrant colors in the evening sky.

"I told her it's alright. It's the rainy season now, and we understand the different weather conditions. More importantly, the overall atmosphere we've experienced has been beautiful and impressive. Of course, this includes the delicious food that the community has prepared for us."

As the sky darkened and our stomachs were full, we returned to the wooden house by the canal. Jod, Goong, and P'Pana prepared their food, and although we could barely eat another bite, we joined them at the table to savor the smiles and camaraderie, a sweet dessert to our dinner.

It's like visiting a friend's house, a relative's house, or visiting an elder relative. My friend assured me of this.

Go to bed simply.

The rooms at the Baan Mai Chaiy Khlong Homestay are simple and clean. They are dormitory-style rooms that can accommodate four or more people. There are two rooms in total. The rooms are air-conditioned, which is a nice bonus for those who get hot easily. However, during the time of our visit, the weather was pleasant, so we only needed to turn on the fan on the lowest setting. In fact, we even had to snuggle under the covers to stay warm.

Bank of Poo for Perfection

A new day dawned with a bright sky. After a simple breakfast of rice porridge, deep-fried dough sticks, coffee, and a few sweets, Jod took us in a pickup truck to Hin Khop Beach, the departure point for a boat trip to Koh Kai, a beautiful island near the shore. Before boarding the boat, we stopped by a local crab bank to observe their operations.

"Since we started this project, we've seen clear results," said Mr. Chang, leader of the Pooma Crab Bank in Hin Krap village. He explained the steps involved in collecting crab eggs from villagers who sell them to the bank. The crabs are kept in ponds until they are ready to lay their eggs, at which point they are separated and placed in different tanks. The eggs are then released into the sea off the beach.

“The survival rate of young horseshoe crabs is already low, but because they lay so many eggs, hundreds of thousands per female crab, even a survival rate of two or three percent is considered acceptable. Nowadays, you can find a lot of crabs around the rocks near the beach. By doing this, we have a continuous supply of crabs to catch, which is much better than before when we just caught them without any management,” explained Mr. Chang.

"Do we release the female crabs back into the sea after they have spawned their eggs?" I asked.

"There are no eggs left, so we'll just sell them and eat them," Brother Chang laughed.

Previously, I had always assumed that the "crab bank" referred to the release of female crabs close to spawning back into the sea. However, it turns out that this is not the case. This must be the fate of the female crab, as what kind of creature could be so delicious? (Haha...)

Paradise Island Beach

A small wooden fishing boat took us from the shore of Ban Hin Kob, cutting through the waves towards the small island in front. P'Pana told us that it was Koh Kai, an island with a fairly beautiful coral reef. The highlight is that there are a lot of tiger conch shells.

The beauty of the beaches and sandbars at Koh Kai is truly breathtaking. Unfortunately, the water level is currently quite low, and despite the clear skies and sunshine, the waves and wind are still quite strong. Our boat was unable to anchor at a suitable snorkeling spot, forcing us to swim to shore and back. The strong waves made for a tiring experience.

The strong waves prevented me from seeing the most beautiful coral reefs on Koh Kai. No matter how hard I tried to swim, I couldn't reach them. (Haha...) However, there were many tiger cowries, and I also saw a few anemones with adorable clownfish guarding their homes.

After a while of diving, we went up to take pictures on the beach. As the wind picked up, P'Pana took us back to shore.

Thung Sang, a Long Beach Worth Visiting

Note: I have translated the sentence into English while maintaining a simple and short tone of voice. I have also avoided using personal pronouns, colloquialisms, and the passive voice. Additionally, I have supported my claim with evidence by providing the English translation of the original Thai sentence.

The same pickup truck with the same driver took us to Ao Tung Sang Bay. It is a long sandy beach located in Pathio district, not far from the airport. Jod said that it is a beach that the district and the community are trying to preserve its natural beauty as much as possible. It is also a beach that everyone wants to present to tourists, letting them know that Chumphon has more than just Tung Wua Laen Beach or Sai Ri Beach.

It's no surprise that Tung Sang Beach, with its long, beautiful curve stretching for several kilometers, is a sight to behold. Walking the entire length of the beach would be no easy feat, even during the rainy season when it is calm and serene. During the dry season, with clear skies and calm seas, the beach is truly breathtaking.

Activities along the canal

Return to the wooden house by the canal. "Come back whenever you want," Jod told us. So we decided to make the most of our time here. In any case, we wouldn't be returning to Bangkok immediately. We planned to spend another night in Chumphon town.

Kayaks and paddle boards are readily available, simply launch them into the canal and enjoy without any additional costs. I opted for a kayak, while my friend chose a paddle board. We paddled around the canal, working up a sweat until we were thoroughly satisfied. It was a truly enjoyable and exhilarating experience.

We bathed in the river, packed our belongings, and waved goodbye to the wooden house homestay in Bang Son community with a heavy heart. The atmosphere, the comfort, and the smiles we received made us wish we could stay for another two or three nights.

However, our journey must continue. There is another destination we want to visit, a famous tourist attraction in the Pa Tio district that can be reached independently.

Pencil Hill: 360-Degree View

Khao Dinso is a renowned national landmark for migratory hawk watching. Although there are no hawks during this season, visitors can still enjoy the panoramic views. Cars can drive up to the parking lot, followed by a 900-meter walk to the summit. The nature trail is well-maintained and not overly challenging. While there are some steep sections, they are not extensive. The majority of the trail consists of gentle inclines interspersed with long flat stretches. Hikers can take breaks as needed, and there are scenic viewpoints along the way.

This location is open to visitors every day without any entrance fees. Visitors can access the site from 6:00 AM and should descend by 6:00 PM. The view from the top offers a true 360-degree panorama, encompassing the coastline, verdant fields, and distant forests, despite occasional obstructions from tall trees. The expansive vista is truly breathtaking.

A Memorable Journey to Khao Din Sor: Experiencing Authentic Community Tourism

The final stop of our community tourism adventure with the Bang Son Community Tourism Network was Khao Din Sor. Though our stay was brief, spanning only two days and one night, it left an unforgettable impression. We were immersed in a simple yet captivating atmosphere, engaging in diverse activities, savoring local delicacies, and witnessing breathtaking landscapes.

Most importantly, we witnessed the unwavering efforts of the local community to preserve their cultural heritage and natural beauty. They strive to share this with visitors, hoping to evoke the same sense of wonder and appreciation that we experienced.

Exploring Local Communities: A Rewarding Experience

Traveling within local communities offers a unique and enriching experience that surpasses the typical tourist itinerary. Engaging with local communities allows for deeper cultural immersion, fostering genuine connections and fostering a deeper understanding of the region's history, traditions, and customs.

Beyond the Tourist Trail:

Venturing beyond the well-trodden tourist paths opens up a world of authentic experiences. By immersing oneself in the daily lives of local communities, travelers gain a firsthand perspective on the region's culture and traditions. This deeper understanding fosters a sense of appreciation for the diversity and richness of human experience.

Building Bridges:

Interacting with local communities fosters meaningful connections and breaks down cultural barriers. Engaging in conversations, sharing meals, and participating in local activities creates a sense of camaraderie and understanding. These interactions promote cultural exchange and foster a sense of global citizenship.

Supporting Local Economies:

Traveling within local communities directly benefits the residents. By patronizing local businesses, supporting community initiatives, and participating in sustainable tourism practices, travelers contribute to the economic well-being of the region. This empowers local communities and ensures the preservation of their cultural heritage.

Conclusion:

Exploring local communities offers a transformative travel experience that goes beyond sightseeing. By engaging with local people, travelers gain a deeper understanding of the region's culture, build meaningful connections, and contribute to the local economy. This immersive experience fosters personal growth, cultural awareness, and a sense of global responsibility.

The One Night Stay With Locals program in Bang Son community offers three package options: 1,400 baht, 1,890 baht (including diving at Koh Kai), and 2,200 baht (including diving at Koh Raan Ped and Koh Raan Kai). These prices are per person. For groups of 5 or more, the price will be lower.

For more information and to purchase packages, please visit:

• Website: www.1nightstaywithlocals.com/pa-tew-bang-son-tourist-community
• Facebook: www.facebook.com/homestaybangson
• Contact: Mr. Somchoke, Tel. 080-7791650

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