"Hey! Let's go to Penang at the end of July. There's the Georgetown Festival, an art festival that takes over the whole city."
Penang is a city with a story for me. When the opportunity arose, how could I resist? Let's go!
Please inform our colleagues at the office that we will be away for three days for a work-related trip.
After completing their office tasks on Thursday afternoon, the team quickly headed to Don Mueang Airport.
The flight was scheduled to depart at 3 pm, but it was slightly delayed and took off at 4 pm. It arrived at its destination just as it was getting dark.
Penang is one hour ahead of Thailand. Although geographically close, Penang uses a different time zone due to economic reasons.
Upon arriving at the airport, we hailed an Uber, a service readily available throughout the city and actively supported by the government. Unlike some countries, ride-hailing services are perfectly legal here, as evidenced by the numerous advertisements displayed within the airport. Finally, at 8 pm, we reached the doorstep of our accommodation for this trip, the East Indies Mansion, conveniently located in the heart of Georgetown.
This historical residence boasts a rich past, with intriguing stories and architectural details. The courtyard at the center creates a charming atmosphere, while the guest rooms offer a minimalist aesthetic with hidden pockets of allure. The overall ambiance evokes a sense of nostalgia.
After resting, we ventured out in search of food. Our accommodation was located in the Little India district, and after a short walk from the hotel, we stumbled upon an intriguing Indian curry restaurant. We decided to give it a try and each ordered a dish.
The food was delicious and had a good spicy kick. The seller was also very friendly. The only downside was that there were no napkins, so we ended up with messy hands. Afterwards, we went to find something else to eat in the Julia Street area, which was not far away and within walking distance.
There are many food options in this area. The noodles look delicious. I walked around trying different things until I found a popular Lok Lok cart.
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Image of a woman in a white dress standing in a field of sunflowers.
The restaurant offers a wide variety of skewers, including meat, meatballs, mushrooms, and vegetables. Each skewer is painted a different color, and the prices vary accordingly. The peanut sauce is similar to that of satay, but the taste is average. While not particularly delicious, it's a fun experience to try a few skewers. However, it can get expensive if you eat too many, especially compared to other food options. If you have the opportunity to visit, it's worth trying a couple of skewers for the novelty. Based on my observations, the clientele seems to be mostly tourists, both Thai and Chinese, who are following online reviews.
Upon hearing the name "Love Lane" for the first time, I couldn't help but wonder if it was an erotic alleyway.
The scene was dominated by stylish young foreigners enjoying drinks and food at the bar.
We opted for a table at Mike's Place, situated conveniently at the beginning of the alleyway. The walls were adorned with messages left by previous patrons.
Overall, it looks beautiful, like a wallpaper. If it were in our country, there would definitely be some claims of ancestry.
Image URL: https://static.wixstatic.com/media/a27d24_9bd7610aec814f489522366876aab8cb~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_500,h_500,fp_0.50_0.50,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/a27d24_9bd7610aec814f489522366876aab8cb~mv2.webp
Image of a person wearing a white shirt and a black tie.
A singer with a face and body like an insurance salesman, but with an incredibly good voice, made me think I was listening to a foreigner singing when I closed my eyes. Then there was another uncle who walked up, looking like he was going to sell peanuts, but when he picked up the guitar and started singing, his powerful voice left me speechless. As the night wore on, the music became faster and more fun, with both Westerners and Chinese people getting up to dance in the street. We ourselves, having passed our teenage years, don't go to entertainment venues as much anymore, preferring to sit and chat with friends over a drink. That night, however, was the most fun I've had in years.
The next morning, we woke up early and saw the atmosphere of the accommodation in the morning. We felt that the house was very livable.
A central courtyard provides a sense of openness, allowing for excellent ventilation and a refreshing atmosphere.
For those who want to see more photos of the accommodation, please visit the photo album on our Facebook page here.
Once the members were ready, they went out to eat dim sum at the Tai Tong Restaurant, a dim sum restaurant that was recommended as delicious. When they arrived, the atmosphere in the restaurant was lively.
The food looked delicious, so I tried almost everything. The table was full of food.
"Grandma turned around and said, 'Eat it all first, you guys!!! There's plenty to order, it won't run out easily. Haha…'"
After we were full, we walked around the city and took photos.
The row houses gradually changed according to each district. Some areas have Art Deco features, such as theaters, while nearby hotels are in the American Modern style.
As you stroll along, you'll encounter street art adorning various building corners. The first type features black-painted iron bars created by local artist Tang Mun Kian. This artwork, titled "Voices of the People," narrates the stories of Penang's inhabitants.
The aspect I appreciate most is its genuine representation of the local community. The street art incorporates the area's way of life, history, and culture, going beyond mere aesthetics or superficiality. It avoids cultural stratification, encompassing diverse narratives, from the story of the noodle vendor to the shoemaker Jimmy Choo, and even the area's past as a haven for thieves. This unashamed portrayal of reality (unlike our own tendency to shy away from truths) transforms the art into a source of information, narrating the stories of each district without resorting to official signage.
Another type of artwork is interactive painting, which incorporates elements of the space, such as doors, windows, and openings, into the piece and allows viewers to participate in the artwork. Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic presented a project of painting on walls for the Georgetown Festival's annual committee in 2012, which has now become a unique and prominent attraction, drawing tourists to Georgetown to photograph these works.
Many people come to collect photos at every point, which means they have to go all over the city, not just the popular places. It's a way to trick people into walking around the city indirectly, which helps boost the economy, including drivers, restaurants, and cafes.
Before visiting, I had seen images of these murals, but they didn't particularly impress me. I expected a casual stroll through the exhibition. However, upon experiencing the atmosphere firsthand, I was struck by the vibrancy and life that these artworks brought to the city. Overall, I found Georgetown to be somewhat quiet, as many residents have likely migrated to the newer parts of the city for work and business. While the city boasts beautiful World Heritage sites, the lack of activity makes it less appealing to tourists. In my opinion, the influence of these artworks has led to the creation of various signs throughout the city, such as the one prohibiting parking in a specific area.
Along the main road, the buildings take on a more Western appearance, with a greater sense of Western influence. This may be due to the presence of large commercial establishments and government offices in the area.
After strolling through the city and admiring the street art, we visited Georgetown's iconic landmarks.
The Blue Mansion: Georgetown's Architectural Gem and World Heritage Site
The Blue Mansion stands as a testament to Georgetown's rich architectural heritage and its designation as a World Heritage Site.
The Blue Mansion, formally known as the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, boasts a rich and dramatic history.
Upon entering, visitors will find themselves in a spacious lobby where they can wait for their guided tour. The lobby provides an opportunity to admire the surrounding ambiance and intricate decorations.
During the tour, a knowledgeable elderly gentleman vividly recounted the history of this house.
This opulent mansion belonged to Mr. Cheng Fatt Je, a Chinese tycoon who immigrated to Penang from China with nothing but the clothes on his back. Arriving in the burgeoning city of Penang, he built his fortune from scratch, amassing a vast business empire. His holdings spanned multiple Asian countries, including Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Indonesia, and Penang itself.
"His wealth and fame earned him the moniker 'Rocky Feller of the East'."
The first section is the central courtyard of the house, which is the main principle in the Chinese feng shui belief in building a house with a place to store money and gold, combined with Western-style decorative elements. Each point has a story, history, culture, and architectural knowledge for us to study.
The mansion was built in the 1880s and features exquisite decorative elements, including intricately carved Chinese wooden doors, stained glass windows with intricate patterns, brown brick walls, cut and decorated with glazed tiles and glass, cast iron columns from Scotland, and adorned with numerous statues, sculptures, and antiques. It is important to note that the mansion was not originally painted blue as it is today.
Following the death of Mr. Cheng Fat Jeo, the vast inheritance was divided among his numerous descendants, as is customary in Chinese cinema. As is typical of wealthy families, some of the heirs squandered their fortunes, leading to the once-grand mansion becoming a low-rent apartment building inhabited by impoverished families. Ironically, it was during this period that the mansion acquired its blue hue. The white paint had become so dilapidated that it was simply painted over with blue to avoid further staining.
In the 1990s, after the death of the last heir, the mansion was restored by a group of cultural heritage conservationists. They aimed to preserve the artistic style and decoration as closely as possible to its original state. The restoration took approximately six years. Upon completion, it received the "Most Excellent" Heritage Conservation Award (Asia-Pacific) from UNESCO in 2000. It played a crucial role in propelling George Town to become a World Heritage Site in 2008, symbolizing the past glory of Penang.
In 2011, the Blue Mansion was recognized by Lonely Planet as one of the "10 Greatest Mansions in the World," and has since received numerous accolades.
After watching the show, it started to rain, so we decided to find a place to shelter from the rain and grab something to eat. We saw a restaurant on the corner of the building near our accommodation called Kafetaria Dan Hotel Eng Loh. It was like a small food court that brought together several restaurants, offering both Chinese and Indian cuisine. It was already past noon, and there weren't many options left, so we ordered fried rice, stir-fried noodles, and some Indian-style chicken.
After a satisfying meal, we embarked on a quest to discover exquisite architecture. A mere ten steps from the restaurant, we stumbled upon the Penang Peranakan Mansion, a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the Peranakan people.
Peranakan refers to a hybrid Malay-Chinese community with a unique blend of cultures. They have created a distinct cultural identity by fusing elements from both Chinese and Malay traditions, resulting in a distinctive artistic and architectural style.
The architectural style of the building is a blend of Chinese and Malay influences. This is evident in the Chinese-style roof and the Malay-style decorative elements, such as the latticework on the balconies. This architectural style is commonly found in areas with a significant Chinese diaspora, such as Phuket, Malacca, and Singapore.
Unlike the Blue Mansion, which focuses on showcasing various artifacts and household items, the Penang Peranakan Mansion emphasizes storytelling. An elderly gentleman narrates the history and significance of each room, providing insights into the beliefs and lifestyles of people in the past.
The initial impression upon seeing the exterior of the house was a sense of familiarity, resembling the Blue Mansion. However, as I continued to explore, I found myself uttering exclamations of surprise. The house held numerous unexpected features, including a private ancestral shrine comparable in size to a typical temple. The sheer opulence of this residence is a testament to the owner's wealth.
Having had our fill of the old, it was time to feast our eyes on some new art. So, we spread out a map to see the locations of the various Art Fest exhibitions in the city.
The first stop at Whiteaway Arcade is a cluster of old buildings housing a diverse range of art exhibitions, including paintings, photographs, multimedia, and sculptures. This eclectic mix of artistic expressions provides ample inspiration and stimulates creativity. The opportunity to engage with the artistic perspectives of individuals from various cultural backgrounds, exceeding the diversity found in our own country, offers fresh insights and broadened horizons.
Next, we visited the UAB Building to see an exhibition of photographs of various indigenous tribes that are on the verge of disappearing from the world.
Before They Pass Away by Jimmy Nelson
The exhibition showcased exquisite hand-woven fabrics from local communities. The intricate designs and patterns on these fabrics resembled paintings, conveying rich narratives and cultural heritage.
The "Character Type" exhibition features Malaysian artist Goh Hun Meng and writer Gareth Richards. I stumbled upon it unexpectedly while wandering around, as it was initially difficult to locate. The exhibition was being held in an old building that appeared to be undergoing renovations. It explored the phenomenon of cognates, words with similar meanings across various Asian languages, such as the Thai word "นี้" and its counterparts in other languages. The diverse materials used in the exhibition were intriguing, as it went beyond physical art to incorporate elements of linguistics. Engaging in a conversation with the artist was a rewarding experience, deepening my understanding of their intended message.
A stroll along the waterfront at Clan Jetties of Penang reveals a row of traditional houses, one of which was once adorned with a frequently photographed mural. Sadly, the mural has since been painted over. As I sat by the water watching boats dock, I couldn't help but imagine the bustling atmosphere of the past, when immigrants from various backgrounds arrived at this very spot. The scene must have resembled something straight out of a movie.
One of the reasons I've always wanted to visit Penang is because my grandfather was from there. He moved to Thailand when he was a young man (he passed away when I was still a child). I came to Penang to learn about my ancestors' way of life. As I thought about it, I realized that my grandfather's brother's family still lives here. It would be funny if I went up to them and said we were related. More importantly, I wonder if we would be able to understand each other.
The adorable sign caught our attention, and after soaking in the breathtaking view, our stomachs began to rumble. We decided to cross the street and grab some dinner. Conveniently, food courts like this are scattered throughout the city.
The food tastes good, but it lacks the spicy dipping sauce that we have at home.
And then we arrived at the Dewan Sri Penang building, which was the venue for the opening ceremony and various shows. We were there to see the show we had specifically come to see, "Chorus."
"A fascinating counterpoint of sound and light" - Independent
Intrigued by the captivating synopsis?
After watching the film, I felt confused. Did it really end? What was the message? What was the climax?
I traveled across the country to see a fan that spins like a child's bed and makes a "whooshing" sound for ten minutes, and that's it? Hilarious...
Art can be perplexing, even for those with a background in applied arts. But let's not dwell on it. Instead, let's grab a cold beer and relax at our mansion tonight.
The next morning, we ventured out to find breakfast near our accommodation. We decided to try some of the local Indian cuisine at a nearby restaurant.
When asked if it was delicious, it might be delicious for the locals, as there were many people eating it. However, it wasn't really to the taste of us, ordinary Thai people. After eating, we went to see another interesting place before returning for the day, which was a historical site on Penang Island, Fort Cornwallis.
The Legacy of Sir Francis Light in Penang
This passage highlights the pivotal role of Sir Francis Light in the history of Penang. Light, the discoverer of Penang, negotiated a lease agreement with the Sultan, effectively establishing British control over the island. Following this acquisition, he oversaw the construction of Fort Cornwallis, a strategic fortification designed to safeguard British trade routes.
Light's vision extended beyond military defense. He envisioned George Town as a thriving duty-free port, a move that spurred rapid economic growth. Notably, Penang became the first location in the region to offer formal English language instruction, marking a significant step in cultural exchange and education.
While the Captain's statue is a notable landmark, the site itself offers limited attractions, resembling a public park. The high entrance fee does not justify the experience, especially for those with time constraints or budget limitations. Consider skipping this attraction if you have limited resources.
Stroll through the city for a final look before stopping by a trendy cafe for a drink before catching your flight back. Black Kettle is located on the main road.
It's time to return to our loved ones and the work we cherish.
The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
Georgetown, to me, is a city of contrasts, where old and new art, Chinese and Indian influences, and East and West converge. I believe that anyone who visits will fall in love with this charming city.
If you're feeling uninspired, Penang might be the perfect place to visit.
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Wednesday, February 26, 2025 8:36 PM