The Twilight Valley...Lappland

Perhaps it is the allure of the unknown and the mysterious that compels us to embark on journeys.

As I spread out a map of Thailand, my eyes fell upon the name "Laplae District, Uttaradit." This mid-sized province is surrounded by Phitsanulok, Sukhothai, Phrae, and Nan, all of which boast numerous well-known tourist destinations. Perhaps this is why many people overlook (forget) Laplae when planning their travels.

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However, I am not. The more mysterious, the more intriguing, the more I want to go and see for myself. I have heard a legend since I was a child that "The Valley of the Hidden City forbids lying." It tells the story of a man who secretly saw several beautiful women coming out of the hidden forest, each holding a leaf to use to enter and exit the forest miraculously. The young man then picked up one of the leaves and hid it, preventing one of the women from returning. The young man then offered to return the leaf in exchange for her entering the forest with him. The woman agreed, and they eventually fell in love and had a son.

One day, a child cried incessantly. The father, in an attempt to soothe the child, jokingly said, "Look, your mother is back." However, he had forgotten the ironclad rule of Lab Lae: "If you lie, you must leave." When the woman truly returned, she was heartbroken. But rules are rules, so she prepared necessities for her husband's journey back. Among them were "turmeric heads," which were heavy and numerous. Along the way, the man discarded them at intervals. Upon reaching home, only one remained. When he took it out, it turned into a gold bar. He rushed back, but everything had transformed into turmeric plants. Thus ended the famous tale of Lab Lae.

The name "Lap Lae" is also geographically linked to the term "secret". Before entering the city, one encounters a majestic "city gate", a rare sight in Thailand, reminiscent of Vientiane in Laos. Accompanying the gate is a sculpture of a widow. Upon passing through, one can see a large mountain called "Mon Ruesi". Due to its western location, the city experiences darkness earlier than usual in the late afternoon, hence the name "Lap Lae", which means "evening" in the northern dialect, eventually evolving into "Lap Lae".

The modern communities along the way may have changed with the times, but upon reaching "Sri Phanomai Market", the classic beauty of the wooden shophouses remains intact. Named after "Phra Sri Phanomai", who brought prosperity to the city of Lap Lae since the reign of King Rama V. Next, you will encounter "Wat Sao Hin", which stands out with its Chiang Saen art style, the first group to pioneer this city during the Sukhothai era. You will then pass through rice fields and mountains that beautifully surround the city, and the way of life of the villagers who are deeply connected to Buddhism. However, the most famous landmark is "Wat Phra Borommathat Thung Yang", built before the Sukhothai period, which houses the relics of the Buddha and the sacred Buddha statue, Luang Pho To, enshrined within the church. If you look at old reviews, you will see that this Phra Borommathat was black, but it is actually pure white. However, as it has been exposed to the elements for a long time, it has accumulated a significant amount of black stains. When I visited, it was being cleaned and the Phra Borommathat was being restored, so it was clearly white. A short distance away is "Phra Thaen Sila Asana", located on a small hill, with the legend that the Buddha, when he was a Bodhisattva, once came to meditate and practice his Buddhist virtues at this place.

From noon to late afternoon, when your stomach starts to rumble, don't miss the unique dish of Lab Lae: Khao Phan Pak. The most famous and highly acclaimed is "Khao Phan Pak Pa To or Pa Indy," which resembles Khao Kriab Pak Mor but with various vegetables sprinkled on top, such as cabbage and morning glory. There are also fusion menus like Khao Phan Pak with Omelette and many more to choose from.

Going back to the name Pa Indy for a moment… Several years ago, Pa To did everything herself, from taking orders to cooking, serving, and clearing tables. It was a complete cycle, resulting in long queues of people waiting for hours. However, the deliciousness made it worth the wait, earning her the nickname "Pa Indy, the One-Woman Show." Today, her son helps her out.

The fertile valley of Lap Lae, also known as "The Edible Mountain," is renowned for its abundance of produce. The area is particularly famous for its durian, with the prized Long Lap Lae variety ripening in June. Other fruits available year-round include the popular Monthong durian, starting at 80 baht per kilogram, and the sweet, large, and fresh langsat, priced at only 15 baht per kilogram. Throughout the valley, locals can be seen skillfully navigating the slopes on motorbikes, transporting baskets laden with fruits. The hot and humid climate, reminiscent of southern Thailand, brings frequent rainfall, nourishing the lush vegetation. This abundant water supply also feeds the impressive Mae Ploo Waterfall, a year-round attraction that offers a refreshing escape for both locals and tourists.

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Let's create a travel challenge! It can add a lot of color to your trip, just like the mysterious and intriguing legend of Lap Lae. With its various mysteries, it's easy to fall in love with its charm. Most importantly, it's a great motivator to get you out of the house. You must go! I guarantee you'll be impressed by Lap Lae... I'm not lying.

Bonus / End of Trip / with Cool Tricks:

• Laplae Museum: Located next to the city gate, free entry. On Saturday evenings, there's also a vintage market.
• Huai Heia Viewpoint: Only open during the winter season, otherwise used for transporting fruits.
• Kanaan Vineyard: Meaning "sacred land of God," a new chill-out spot just 20 km from the city center.

Contact & Camping

• At Lablae Resort 055-431-137 / 082-661-0881

• Heuan Lap Lae 055-427-009 • Good Time 055-411-554

• Auntie Indie's Vegetable-Wrapped Rice 080-447-0345 • Kana'an Vineyard 086-207-2096

• TOT Public Company Limited Phrae Office (Phrae, Nan, Uttaradit) 054-521-127