Our journey to Mae Hong Son began on Friday, November 4th, and lasted until November 7th. It was our first time exploring the north together as two adventurous women.
This was a spontaneous trip. A friend shared a picture of Pang Ung on their feed, and we commented "Let's go." Both of us were easygoing, so we actually went.
To manage our bookings and gather preliminary information within a week, the first step we took to prevent our trip from falling through was to book our return flight tickets.
We were fortunate to secure a promotional ticket for 980 baht. We have already booked our return flight. If the trip falls through, so be it! Haha!
The primary destinations of this trip are Pang Ung and the Tung Bua Tong flower field. The exact route is still unknown, but it is known that it is accessible by motorbike.
Accommodation will be decided on the spot, and the next day we will camp at Pang Ung, carrying tents and sleeping bags with us. ^^
Total trip expenses
Round-trip ticket Chiang Mai - Bangkok 980 baht
Round-trip ticket Bangkok - Mae Hong Son 685 Baht
Minivan ticket from Mae Hon Son to Chiang Mai: 250 baht.
The cost of renting a motorbike for 2 days is 500 baht.
The first night's accommodation costs 400 baht (200 baht per person).
Three refuelings cost 72+110+50 = 232 baht.
Food and souvenirs: unlimited
Approximately 3,000 - 4,000 Baht.
There are only two departures from Chatuchak, Bangkok to Mae Hong Son: 5 pm and 6 pm.
Departed on Friday evening at 6:00 PM and arrived in Mae Hong Son on Saturday morning around 9:00 AM. A 15-hour journey!
We drifted in and out of sleep, unaccustomed to the new surroundings. Before we knew it, we had entered Mae Hong Son province.
The most noticeable features were the numerous, sharp curves, which caused nausea and waves of bathroom odor.
At that moment, I thought to myself, "When will we get there? I'm going to throw up." I looked over and saw a sign that said Mae Hong Son was still over 100 kilometers away. Oh no!
At that moment, I had already set my sights on the bag. I didn't know where my inhaler was in my bag. What saved me at that moment was the blanket. The blanket smelled so good.
The scent of the blanket helped us a lot.
This 125cc Dream will be our trusty companion throughout our Mae Hong Son adventure!
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Day 1 in Mae Hong Son: Searching for the Tung Bua Tong fields
9:00 AM arrived at Mae Hong Son Bus Station, washed our faces and brushed our teeth, and then agreed with our friends that we would sleep in Mae Hong Son tonight.
We decided to postpone our trip to Pang Ung for another day, as we were unfamiliar with the local routes. Instead, we spent the morning searching for accommodation.
I don't know where to book or how to get there. As far as I can tell, people usually take a tuk-tuk to get there.
Fortunately, a motorcycle taxi driver happened to be passing by, so I asked him to take me to a guesthouse and a motorbike rental shop in Mae Hong Son town.
Uncle Win brought us to stay at Boon Dee House. Luckily, there was still a room available.
We opted for a room with a fan for one night at a cost of 400 baht, prioritizing affordability. As the weather has recently turned cooler, a fan should suffice.
We forgot to take pictures of the room, we only have pictures of the front door and the cat from the house next door.
Uncle Win then took us to rent a motorbike. It seemed like there was only one shop in Mae Hong Son. We didn't see any other shops besides this one.
The rental price is 250 baht per day. A deposit of 1,000 baht is required, along with a citizen ID card. The fuel tank must be full when you pick up the vehicle, and it must be returned with the same amount of fuel.
If you haven't planned a trip yet, like us, you can talk to the staff at M. Saike. They will recommend places to visit in Mae Hong Son and provide you with a map.
The tour routes are divided into two paths: north (Pang Ung) and south (Tung Bua Tong).
Today, we plan to visit the Tung Bua Tong flower field and explore the city of Mae Hong Son. Tomorrow, we will ride our motorbikes south to Pang Ung.
The journey to the Tung Bua Tong sunflower field takes only 1.5 hours, according to my brother.
Grab a bite to eat before heading out. I spotted a delicious and affordable chicken khao soi at a nearby restaurant called "ร้านป้านูญ" near the accommodation.
The first day we will be the driver, and then tomorrow we will let our friend drive up to Pang Ung. Haha.
They say the climb to Pang Ung is extremely steep and challenging. It's probably best to let your friend drive.
Turning on GPS, our passenger whispered the first stop: Pha Bong Viewpoint. The winding road led us uphill to the scenic spot.
Upon arrival, you will find a spacious area by the roadside. Park your motorbike here and walk down to take pictures. From this viewpoint, you can see the panoramic view of the mountains and the Phabong Dam below.
We continue to ride our motorcycles for another 60 kilometers following the GPS route to reach Khun Yuam District.
60 kilometers is considered a long distance for a motorcycle like ours, especially at a speed of 60 kilometers per hour.
The driver had to stand up and drive at intervals because he had not even reached the halfway point when he lifted his buttocks. He was so tired.
While enjoying the view from the roadside, we also took a break from driving.
The weather in Mae Hong Son that day was starting to get a bit chilly. The sun was hot, but the wind was cool and refreshing.
We rode our motorbikes, excited by the view of the dry cornfields on both sides of the road.
I decided to stop by someone's dry cornfield and found the owner there.
They asked permission to take photos, which must have left the locals wondering what they were doing.
Capture a photo of Dream.
It's past noon and I haven't arrived yet. The sun is getting stronger, and the caffeine in my system is starting to kick in. I happened to drive past this shop, so I decided to stop by and check it out.
The name of the shop is The Living Room Cafe & Friends. I would like to order an iced espresso, please. ^^
The friendly owner welcomed us to take photos inside.
During the day, the shop sells coffee, while in the evening, it offers beer.
Continuing our journey, we entered the Mae U Kho community. Along the way, we started to see fields of blooming sunflowers.
We stopped to take some photos. From this angle, we could see houses curving along the road and mountains.
Just 10 more kilometers to the sunflower field! Hooray!
Entranced by the winding curves of the mountains
We finally arrived! The sunflower field we've been searching for, after a 4-hour drive.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
Although the flowers are not yet in full bloom, the scenery here is still breathtaking. The cool breeze is refreshing, and tourists have begun to arrive.
We parked our car and quickly walked to capture the golden sunflowers, as it was already 3 pm.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
The Tong Poo Flower Field at Doi Mae U Kho
The Tong Poo Flower Field at Doi Mae U Kho is located in Doi Mae U Kho, Mae U Kho Subdistrict, Khun Yuam District, Mae Hong Son Province.
Blooms from early November to early December each year.
As you ascend the stairs, the panoramic view becomes increasingly breathtaking.
The vibrant yellow and green hues create an undeniably captivating aesthetic.
The climb to the highest viewpoint was worth it, offering breathtaking views that erased all fatigue and weariness.
We stayed here until 4 pm and then headed back because we were afraid of not making it in time for the sunset at Doi Kong Mu Temple.
They say there will be a famous coffee shop named "Before the Sun Sets on the Mountain's Edge" located there.
Sipping something cool while watching the sunset must be quite enjoyable.
Before reaching the sunflower field, we came across a roadside strawberry stall. We made a mental note to stop by on our way back.
"Buy a bag of strawberries for 60 baht and then ask to take photos at the strawberry farm behind."
The aspiring owner of the strawberry farm, a very cute younger sibling. ^^
Refuel before a long journey.
As we drove back to the area where we had taken pictures of the dry cornfield, we saw a sign for a sunflower field 35 kilometers away.
"Quick, point it out to your friend," they said. "Did we come the wrong way? Why is there a sign pointing in the other direction here?"
The motorbike rental shop owner told us it would only take an hour and a half, but why did it take us four hours? Did we stop too often?
"Let's hurry and drive. The sun is setting, and it will be dusk soon. The bugs will be flying all over the place and hitting our faces."
We arrived at Doi Kong Mu Temple at 6:30 p.m. It was too late, the sun had already set.
"If the shop doesn't close before the sun sets behind the sharp mountain ridge, then forget it!"
Let's find something to eat instead. Even if we can't relax by enjoying the view, at least we can relax with a full stomach.
To conclude the night, we took a stroll through the Mae Hong Son Walking Street.
Located in front of Wat Chong Klang and Wat Chong Kham (next to the motorbike rental shop).
The sale ran from six in the evening until around ten at night.
A Major Miscalculation on the Trip
The biggest miscalculation on this trip was when we booked the van tickets back to Chiang Mai to catch our flight back to Bangkok. It turned out that the van took 6 hours to travel from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai. This meant that we only had one full day to explore Mae Hong Son, as we had to leave Pang Ung and catch the van to Chiang Mai at 11 am on the third day. We were disappointed that we didn't check the travel time beforehand, as we assumed it would only take 2-3 hours since the provinces are adjacent.
Day 2 in Mae Hong Son: Trekking to Pang Ung
We woke up early on our second day in Mae Hong Son, determined to make the most of our time. We decided to leave one of our bags at the motorbike rental shop (which was still closed, but we had informed the owner) and take only one bag with us to Pang Ung. We figured that if we brought everything, there wouldn't be enough space for everyone to sit, and the combined weight wouldn't be insignificant. So, you'll be staying at the motorbike rental shop while we're gone.
Following the GPS navigation, I arrived at the Su Tong Pae Bridge for alms offering. The bridge is located approximately 10 kilometers from Mae Hong Son city.
We arrived on motorbikes at 7:00 AM, having rushed to make it in time for the morning alms offering. As we were parking,
The monk happened to be walking across the street as we were driving in on our motorbike. I thought to myself, "Oh no, not again!"
The villagers informed us that the monk will be returning to the temple via this path in approximately half an hour. We can wait here for his arrival.
Let's order congee to save time.
Capture the atmosphere as you wait.
The monk returned shortly. For those who did not bring offerings, there are items available for purchase here.
8:00 AM this morning, the fog still lingered. We continued our journey.
We will continue to visit the places we want to see until we reach our final destination, Pang Ung.
On the way to Pang Ung, you will pass through the Ban Huai Khan community.
The sight of the rice fields and mountains shrouded in mist in the distance was too tempting to resist, so I stopped to capture the scene.
After passing Ban Huai Khan, the road will become increasingly steeper as we begin our ascent up the mountain.
We soon arrived at Pha Seu Waterfall by motorbike. Wow, let's stop here again.
The Pha Sua Waterfall is free of charge. You only need to sign in with the forest ranger before entering. It seems that this morning there are only two tourists, us.
Pha Sua Waterfall is located in Tham Pla - Pha Sua Waterfall National Park. The waterfall flows down from Mae Sa-nga Waterfall in Burma, with 6 tiers and water all year round.
Upon inquiry, officials informed me that the current water levels are lower than usual due to the need to conserve water for electricity generation.
I want to go home, but I don't have a phone anymore.
"After asking the park ranger for directions to Pang Ung, he said it wasn't far and that there would be a fork in the road ahead. One path leads to Pang Ung, and the other leads to Ban Rak Thai."
A short distance from where the forest ranger told us, we stopped to fill up the tank again, this time for 110 baht. We decided to visit the Rak Thai village first.
Another stunning view along the way. This spot offers a glimpse of the houses of the Ban Na Pa Paek community nestled in the mountains.
We then arrived at Ban Rak Thai, a Yunnan Chinese village. The majority of the population migrated from southern China during the transition to a communist system. The village has a large lake.
The renowned cuisine of this region includes authentic Yunnan Chinese dishes, tea, and mantou. We sampled the tea and steamed buns, which were both delicious.
Along the road leading to Baan Rak Thai, there are many tea shops offering free samples. If you like the tea, you can buy some to take home.
Across from the shop where we enjoyed tea, there is a bar where you can climb up to enjoy a high-angle view of the entire lake.
It was noon, and the caffeine was kicking in as usual. We stopped at Coffee Camp, located between Ban Na Pa Paek and Rak Thai Village.
Today, we ordered our usual espresso, which is prepared here with syrup but without milk.
This is arguably the most delicious steak I have ever tasted. The flavor is incredible, and the restaurant's ambiance is equally impressive.
Continuing our journey to Pang Ung, the road leading up to the village is indeed as steep and winding as they say, with numerous sharp bends.
On some slopes, we barely used third and fourth gear, shifting back and forth between first and second gear. Soon, we arrived safely at Pang Ung.
After setting up our accommodation and tents, we went out to find something to eat at the Baan Ruam Thai village near the entrance to Pang Ung.
My friend recommended that I try the tea leaf salad here. Uncle Pala, a Thai Karen, was the first to move to the Ruam Thai village.
The Royal Project at Pang Ung began in 1985 with the planting of coffee as part of an initiative to promote and develop agricultural livelihoods in the mountainous region of Mae Hong Son province.
Serving as a model for farmers or those interested to study and gain knowledge.
Another unique feature of this place is the giant bamboo trees.
Lunch today: Stir-fried minced pork with egg on rice, fermented pork sausage fried rice, and pickled tea leaves salad.
The tea leaf salad is truly delicious.
The cat of Uncle Pala.
Pay after eating.
It will be a long time before nightfall. We decided to take a drive around the area and ended up at the Baan Huai Makheua Som house.
I saw a sign that said strawberries, so I stopped to ask if they were for sale. The kind lady told me that they were sold out, but if I was willing to wait, she would save some for me.
Okay, we can wait and help clean up.
My kind sister told me that they usually sell to tourists passing by here.
200 baht for half a kilo, but they usually collect it in the morning.
The elder sister continued, "The plants I grow this year will not be ready to eat until next year. Besides, the fruits are still small because the weather is not cold yet."
However, if the weather gets colder, the fruit will grow even bigger.
This bunch is edible. The fruits are not pretty, so I will keep them for myself to eat.
As the sun began to set, after a day of capturing photographs, our camera's battery neared depletion. Consequently, we made our way back to Pang Ung.
Before reaching the Ban Ruam Thai village, we stopped for another round. The pine trees in this area are quite beautiful.
They took turns taking pictures, and everyone looked sick.
How refreshing it is!
I stopped by the Rom Thai village to pick up some snacks before heading back to my tent to prepare for a shower before the water gets too cold.
Have dinner at the Thai Village and then return to the tent to enjoy the cool breeze.
We carried our tripod all the way from Bangkok, determined to capture the stars here. Tonight, the stars are beautiful and plentiful.
Despite the desire to capture the stars, our drowsiness proved too strong. We opted to preserve the memory of the starry night in our minds instead.
We went to sleep around 3 or 4 in the evening, hoping that tomorrow there will be a lot of fog. We will wake up at 5:30 am to wait for the fog.
And of course, we didn't sleep soundly because the place where we pitched our tent was sloping. We were sleepy and didn't feel like moving it.
During sleep, we almost flowed together in front of the door. When we woke up, we had severe back pain. Hahahahahaha.
Farewell, Pang Ung. I must leave now, or I will miss my ride.
We set our alarm for 5:30 AM, but it was still dark. The light started to come in around 6:00 AM, and then we went out to take pictures.
In the morning, monks will come to collect alms, and villagers will come to sell offerings for alms-giving.
Morning mist floats on the water's surface.
Translation:
Is there anything else I can help you with?
The sun has begun to shine.
Translation:
Is there anything else I can help you with?
Royal Garuda Emblem
After taking some photos, we packed up our tents at 7 am and rushed back to Mae Hong Son to catch the 11 am bus to Chiang Mai.
I arrived at the strawberry farm yesterday. It was very foggy, but I didn't forget to take some photos. It was still a relaxing experience.
The fog continues along the return route.
As they drove along, they noticed a coffee shop sign nearby at 8:30 am and decided to stop for a bite to eat, as they still had time.
Translation:
"Chang Thai" Coffee, the conqueror of "Thousand Curves of the Sea of Mist," a coffee shop with a breathtaking view of rice fields and mountains.
Take half an hour to soak in the morning atmosphere, sipping coffee while gazing at the rice fields amidst the sea of mist floating along the mountain views.
Translation:
Thrilling items are also available for sale.
We arrived too early, and the shop was not yet ready.
We arrived safely in Mae Hong Son and returned the rented motorbike. We did not fill the tank, so the shop charged us 50 baht.
The shop kindly allowed us to spread our mats and sit in front of the bathroom until ten o'clock, when we finished getting dressed and packing our belongings.
Translation:
The van will pick us up at the post office at 11 am. We have one hour left, so let's grab some breakfast.
Next to the post office is a beautiful restaurant called 77 house's Wine, Coffee and Food. The food is also very affordable.
We ordered rice with sweet and sour stir-fry, a promotion that included a blueberry smoothie for 120 baht.
Unfortunately, our time in Mae Hong Son was limited to a few days, but even in that short time, we fell in love with this place. It's a peaceful town, devoid of large shopping malls.
Translation:
The people were lovely, kind, and friendly. There were many places we didn't get to see or didn't have time to visit. We hope to return here again in the future.
Farewell to this journey.
"Speaking the world aloud can help us remember it longer."
Yet, exploring the world on foot will leave an unforgettable mark on our memories.
From the book, "Walking Beside Him, Cold Beside Her"
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Friday, September 27, 2024 10:43 AM