The Tale of 'Lao' Nong Khieo, Mueang Ngoi, and the Conquest of the Dreamy Mist

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Nong Khiao

… a city that must be on the list of all backpackers, and this Thai female traveler.

A Breathtaking View from Nong Khiaw

The breathtaking view from Nong Khiaw, as captured in the photos shared by countless travelers on Instagram, is a sight to behold. Towering mountains frame a small town nestled below, with a river snaking its way through the landscape and bridges connecting the communities. The ethereal mist clinging to the hills adds an air of mystery and allure, beckoning adventurous travelers to explore its depths.

For many, this first-time visit to Laos marks the fulfillment of a long-held dream, a chance to conquer the View Point and witness the stunning panorama firsthand. The experience is both exhilarating and humbling, a reminder of the raw beauty and tranquility that nature offers.

This is a map of Nong Khieo town that we forced our younger sister to draw for us. We then made some minor adjustments on the computer to give a general impression of Nong Khieo town, as we experienced it firsthand. If there are any errors in the information, please feel free to provide feedback and suggestions.

Departing from Don Mueang Airport with AirAsia, we flew directly to Luang Prabang. The flight took about an hour and a half. After checking the bus schedule to Nong Khiaw, we had to stay overnight in Luang Prabang because we arrived at 4 pm. There were only three buses to Nong Khiaw: 9 am, 11 am, and 2 pm.

On the morning of our departure to Nong Kiew, we woke up early to offer sticky rice to the monks. We had breakfast near our accommodation and checked out at 8 am. After inquiring with the Lao staff member of Pakhongthong Villa, Saynamkhan, who had welcomed us the previous day, he informed us that it would be better to call a car ourselves, as the hotel would add a surcharge if they arranged it. Therefore, we had to carry our luggage to find a tuk-tuk to take us to the Northern Bus Terminal.

The driver took us to the Northern Bus Terminal for 50,000 kip for two people. At that time, we didn't know if it was a good price or not because we didn't know how far the Northern Bus Terminal was.

It took us about half an hour to reach the Northern Bus Terminal. The scene resembled a bus station in our rural hometown. A small passenger terminal building stood in front, with ticket booths at the front. On the left and right sides were parked vehicles waiting for passengers to travel to their destinations. There were vans, minibuses, and two-row vehicles similar to tuk-tuks but larger. The passengers were mostly Laotian, with only a few foreigners scattered among them.

The bus ticket to Nong Khiaw cost 40,000 kip. The Lao seller told us that there were two types of vehicles available: a van and a tuk-tuk. We could choose whichever we preferred. Seeing the condition of the tuk-tuk, we opted for the van.

Our first impression of Laos was that we could easily communicate in Thai. They understood us, and we understood them to some extent. Some words took longer to comprehend. For example, the phrase "เอาเครื่องมายัง" meant "Have you brought your belongings?" The word "เครื่อง" seemed to encompass personal belongings.

After purchasing the tickets, we prepared to board the van. It was a small, white van in an old condition. The driver was packing luggage on the roof. Inside, there were three rows of seats, each accommodating three passengers. Two Lao people were already seated in the first row. In the next row, a foreigner sat by the window. On the other side, near the door, some belongings were placed as a reservation. The last row was available for us to sit together. As the departure time approached, three more foreigners joined us on the same van.

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At 9:00 AM, the car departed from the pier. The distance from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw is approximately 150 kilometers, and it takes 3 hours to travel. The road is a small two-lane road, barely wide enough for two cars to pass each other. Some sections are paved, while others are red dirt. The road is quite rough, and frequent travelers on this route are well aware of the dust. As a result, everyone carries a dust mask. New travelers, like us, use their hands to cover their faces.

After about an hour of driving, the car stopped at a roadside shop, which looked like a car repair shop. The driver opened the door for everyone to get out of the car and said, "You can go to the bathroom first." Then he turned to a man and said, "It's been making this noise the whole time." It was clear that the car had broken down. ...

After another hour of repairs, we arrived at Pak Mong pier around 1:00 PM. This point is about 2 kilometers from Nong Khiaw town. You can either walk or take a tuk-tuk. The tuk-tuk fare is 10,000 kip and will take you to the front of your accommodation.

Booked through Booking.com, I stayed at Nam Ou River Lodge for 400 baht per night. The room had a fan, a single bed, and a balcony at the back with a view of the Nam Ou River. The room was okay, but there was no TV or bidet.

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With our belongings packed and ready, we set off on foot to explore the city.

We set out on foot from our accommodation around 2 pm. The sun was blazing at this time. We only realized how far our accommodation was from the bridge when we reached it. Before reaching the bridge, we passed the Nong Khiao pier, where people can catch a boat to the old city of Ngoi. I would love to visit the old city of Ngoi someday, but this time, we only have time for Nong Khiao.

The U Bridge

The U Bridge, a concrete structure spanning the heart of the city, stretches approximately 200 meters. It serves as a vital thoroughfare for pedestrians and vehicles alike, connecting the two banks of the river. From this vantage point, one can enjoy breathtaking 360-degree views. Whether witnessing the sunrise or the sunset, the panorama is captivating. However, the scorching afternoon sun compels us to seek refuge from the heat and find a restaurant for a quick lunch.

Crossing the bridge to the other side, it is evident that this side has a considerably higher concentration of accommodations and restaurants, in stark contrast to the other side, which we walked through, which is predominantly a community of schools and local residences. The establishment we selected to escape the heat and have lunch in the afternoon was JOY, where we ordered Lao papaya salad, fried seaweed sheets, minced pork salad, and sticky rice. The most enjoyable dish was arguably the sticky rice with seaweed sheets. The seaweed, known as "kai," is a green algae that grows naturally in freshwater sources. It is sun-dried and then fried over low heat, sprinkled with sesame seeds. Who knew that sticky rice and seaweed would complement each other so well?

We entered and exited shops, waiting for the evening light to capture photos near the bridge. We inquired with the shop owner about the path to the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint, preparing for our early morning hike to the Pha Daeng Viewpoint. As the sun began to set, we ventured onto the bridge to take photographs. The atmosphere on the bridge is said to be particularly pleasant during the morning and evening hours. Coincidentally, Laotian schoolchildren were cycling or walking home after school, creating a lively scene.

Before returning to our accommodation, we stopped by a tour company to inquire about the price of returning to Luang Prabang the next day. We were curious if booking with the tour company would get us a better car than the one we arrived in. The price was 70,000 kip, and the car would pick us up at our accommodation and take us to the Pak Mong bus station. If we wanted the car to take us directly to our accommodation in Luang Prabang, we had to be there by 9 am. Okay, we'll try to be there by 9 am.

Walking through the community before returning to our accommodation, we were still feeling full from lunch, so we stopped to buy grilled meatballs and chicken from a local vendor. Looking at the houses and shops in the area, it reminded us of our childhood homes in the countryside.

Translation:

While waiting for grilled chicken in the shade, a young Laotian man with a pen-drawn design on his face approached and greeted the Thai woman. We exchanged greetings, and I asked if he wanted to take a picture. The young man nodded, understanding my words, and stood ready for the photo.
I then asked him:

"What happened to your face?"
The young man gave a nervous smile, touched his face, and quickly walked away.

On our way back to our accommodation, we encountered numerous children. Some were playing in the water of the U River, others were sitting on houses that resembled guesthouses, and still others were walking and running around the area.

Three young girls were engaged in an activity behind our accommodation. As we conversed, they introduced themselves as Yua, Kim, and Thong. The trio were catching cicadas by clapping their hands loudly, causing the insects to fly. They then chased and captured the cicadas, placing them in a bottle for later consumption.

Translation:

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The children told me that their home is on the other side of the mountain behind the accommodation, pointing their fingers. They came here to study and are now in the first year of middle school. They can only take a boat back home on Fridays. When they found out I was Thai, they said that a Thai person had donated equipment to their school the week before. I was confused about what equipment they meant. It turned out that "equipment" referred to clothes and other necessities. I asked if they received any, and they replied, "No, what can we do? We're poor." Hearing this broke my heart. Even today, the rich are getting richer, while the poor remain poor. However, I am glad that there are still kind-hearted Thai people who donate to these children in such a remote location.

The next morning, we woke up to fulfill our dream of conquering Pha Daeng, also known as the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint.

Translation:

Departing from the accommodation around 5:30 am, we passed the pier and the bridge where we stopped to take photos yesterday. This morning, the entire city of Nong Khew was already shrouded in a white mist.

The view from the bridge reveals villagers rowing their boats below. This scene differs significantly from rowing in Thailand, where rowers sit at the front of the boat, while in Thailand, rowers sit at the back.

Standing there taking photos for a while, I met a Thai person who was also taking photos on the bridge. We exchanged a few greetings, and I continued taking photos on the other side. He told me to go to the viewpoint, saying it was very beautiful and that there might be fog today.

Translation:

Approximately 200 meters from the bridge, we arrived at the starting point of the Nongkhiaw View Point. The entrance fee is 20,000 kip per person. The sign in front indicates a walking time of 1.5 hours.

…… Only 1 hour and 30 minutes!!!!

We continued walking uphill without a specific destination. When we got tired, we stopped to rest. The path wasn't as difficult as we had imagined. In some steep sections with loose soil, ropes were provided to help us pull ourselves up. In other places, stairs had been built. After walking with my friend for a while, I turned to him and said, "You can go ahead, don't wait for me. I'll catch up later." My friend said this while he was catching his breath. I tried to encourage him, saying, "Keep walking, don't stop, take short steps." It didn't seem to work, so I decided to go ahead and leave him behind.

An hour passed, and we didn't see anyone on the way. We only exchanged a few words with ants and insects. I was afraid that I would forget how to speak Thai. We walked on for a while and met a young Lao man chopping branches and leaves by the side of the road. So we stopped and asked, "Is it much further?"

They glanced at their watch and said, "20 more minutes."

"How far is it from the bottom to the top?" we asked.

"I don't know, but it takes about 1.5 hours to walk," he replied again.

The signpost indicated that the destination was only 5 minutes away. However, someone had crossed out the number 5 and replaced it with 10. I took a deep breath and continued walking, knowing that I was close to my destination and close to collapsing.

The man said that it was only 5 minutes away and then spoke at length in a language we didn't understand. He mentioned something about a ramp and a beautiful view at the top. He encouraged us to keep going and said goodbye.

The final ascent
We've finally made it!
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The view is breathtaking!

Taking a break here for a moment, looking at the view, it suddenly occurred to me that if it were a sunrise view, it would be amazing from this angle. But I guess I would have to start walking up at 4 am. Hmm... Just thinking about it makes me sleepy. And finally, we actually made it up here! The view that I used to see on Instagram, today I get to see it with my own eyes. I'm so happy and proud...

Translation:

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Even if we sit still, the distance is too far to reach in minutes. Thanks to the two strong legs that are the key steps to bring the body here...

Scrolling through messages on my phone, I came across a message from a dear friend, sent at an unknown time.

Translation:

"Stay on the rope, okay?"

"Wait here for me, okay?"

"Let's take a selfie."

"The Thai people are going up to have their picture taken."

Translation:

Sigh. So tired. I miss my friends so much…

Water is with my friends…

Oh man… I need water.

I shouldn't have left my water with them. I should have carried it myself.

555555555555

Okay, since our friends aren't coming up, let's ask the Laotian brother who came up to the kindergarten to take our picture. It might be a bit awkward, though. They might not feel comfortable posing, so we might end up with some stiff sitting and awkward standing poses.

A Laotian man approached me while I was taking photos and asked if he could borrow my camera. He explained that he wanted to take a picture of his wife and send it to his brother who works in Thailand. He added that his brother hasn't been home for four years.

After a moment's hesitation, I decided to trust him. He wouldn't push me off the cliff, would he? I handed him my camera and asked, "Would you mind taking a picture of me?"

The speaker expresses concern about accidentally giving their brother's camera back with RAW files on the memory card. They worry that their brother may not be able to open the files without the proper software. The speaker apologizes for the inconvenience.

A sentence from the book "Walking Beside Him, Cold Beside Her"
"We all come together for a brief moment,
At the point where our paths intersect.
What we encounter at that point,
May not be all that he is or has."

After taking photos for a while, we said goodbye to our friend and told him we were leaving. He asked if we weren't waiting for our other friend to come up, and we shouted back that our friend wasn't coming up. We would have liked to stay and take more photos, but we were really thirsty.

The descent took approximately one hour. The pace was faster than the ascent, perhaps due to intense thirst, prompting a swift descent. During the descent, we encountered four Thai tourists, two elderly Westerners, and two young Western women who appeared to be our age. We exchanged greetings, wishing them well and encouraging them with "Fighting!"

It is unlikely that I will be able to catch the 10 am bus back to Luang Prabang today. By the time I reach the bottom of the mountain, it will be past 9 am.

After a quick breakfast at Vongmany Restaurant, a well-known establishment that has been open for many years, we set off on our return journey to Luang Prabang. The restaurant, which we had been searching for the previous day without success, was conveniently located on our way back. We ordered a bottle of water and a Pepsi and enjoyed a hearty breakfast before heading back to our accommodation to pack our belongings. As we crossed the Nong Kiew Bridge, the morning mist that we had witnessed earlier had completely vanished.

Translation:

Due to missing the 10:00 AM bus, we rescheduled our pick-up time with the tuk-tuk driver for 11:00 AM at our accommodation. The driver arrived promptly and transported us to the Pakmong pier, the same location we arrived at earlier. In conclusion, regardless of whether you book with a tour company or travel independently, you will need to board the bus at this location. However, booking with a tour company offers greater assurance as it guarantees your return transportation to Luang Prabang.

Transportation Costs in Luang Prabang

The cost of transportation in Luang Prabang varies depending on the mode of transport and the distance traveled.

From the airport to the city center:

• Tuk-tuk: 25,000 kip for two people.
• Minivan: 40,000 kip.
• Tuk-tuk to Nong Khiaw: 10,000 kip.

Total cost for a one-way trip from the airport to Nong Khiaw: 75,000 kip.

Returning to the airport:

• Tuk-tuk and minivan: 70,000 kip.
• Tuk-tuk from the northern bus station to Luang Prabang: 20,000 kip.

Total cost for a one-way trip from Nong Khiaw to the airport: 80,000 kip.

Translation:

The return trip to Luang Prabang was much better than the journey there, even though the air conditioning wasn't working. The fresh air helped to keep the atmosphere in the car from becoming too stuffy. I met a Thai person who I had seen earlier at the Nong Khiaw bridge on the same bus. We talked about our experiences in Nong Khiaw. On the way back to Luang Prabang, someone flagged down the van and got on. However, they got off before reaching Luang Prabang and told the driver they didn't have any money. They then just walked away! Even more surprisingly, the person sitting behind me wanted to stop and buy some vegetables from a roadside stall. The driver stopped the van and let them get out to buy some vegetables. There were about 7 or 8 stalls selling various things, including roasted sweet potatoes, vegetables, frogs, toads, red ant eggs, and even centipedes (which are called "lan" in my hometown)!

From the book "Walking Beside Him, Cold Beside Her"

"Behind every beautiful picture lies hidden toil,
the toil that requires effort
to turn the beautiful side of that picture...back."

Thank you to our fellow travelers who, despite not being romantically involved, joined us in conquering the summit.