A "Where should we go? I'm tired of the beach."
B "Honestly, I've been wanting to go to Laos."
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This trip began with a disagreement. One of us didn't want to go to the beach, while the other wanted to visit Laos, specifically Vang Vieng, a popular nature tourism destination. However, none of our friends were available to join us, so we ended up going as a duo. Our four-day, three-night adventure took place from June 4th to 7th, 2017.
Living in Vang Vieng, a small town bustling with tourists, was a peaceful experience. Despite the crowds, the town offered a sense of tranquility, safety, and close proximity to nature. The friendly locals added to the overall charm of the place.
Essential items for your Vang Vieng trip include a passport and a pen.
This trip was a backpacking adventure. I spent four days with just one bag, no camera, and no selfie stick. I only brought the essentials.
Four-Day Travel Plan
Day 1 (June 4th): Travel from Khon Kaen to Udon Thani, then take a bus from Udon Thani to Vang Vieng. Find accommodation.
Day 2 (June 5th): Rent a bicycle and visit Tham Jang Cave. Explore the town center and enjoy papaya salad by the Song River.
Day 3 (June 6th): One-day trip: Kayak, go cave tubing, and have lunch at the Blue Lagoon.
Day 4 (June 7th): Travel back from Vang Vieng to Udon Thani and then to Khon Kaen.
To ensure a smooth review, I will summarize the total expenses below. These are my personal expenses and do not include any shared costs, as some items were not shared. The costs are approximate and have been converted to Thai baht.
Travel: 900 baht
Accommodation (3 nights): 750 baht
Food: 950 baht
Activities: 825 baht
Border crossing: 55 baht
Vang Vieng Resort entrance fee: 10 baht
Tham Jang Cave entrance fee: 60 baht
Bicycle rental: 30 baht
One-day trip: 670 baht
Total expenses: 3,425 baht
Day One
We started our journey by checking the train schedule on the website. The most suitable time was 4:00 AM, so we took a taxi to the newly renovated Khon Kaen train station. We arrived at around 3:30 AM and went to the ticket office, but we couldn't find anyone. We asked the security guard, "Where are the ticket sellers?"
"They're sleeping in the room," the guard replied. "They won't wake up until closer to 5:00 AM when they start selling tickets."
My friend and I looked at each other, our eyes filled with disbelief. "They're sleeping? Until 5:00 AM?"
Later, I learned from the security guard that the 4:00 AM train costs 500 baht, while the free train departs at 5:00 AM. However, taking the 5:00 AM train would mean missing the 8:30 AM Udon Thani-Vang Vieng bus. My initial thought was, "Oh no, here we go again."
At that time, I thought of a second plan, which was to take a minivan from Khon Kaen to Udon Thani, which would leave at 6 am. So I could only sit and wait for the time to pass until 5 am before leaving the train station and going to the air-conditioned station.
This incident highlights the importance of verifying train schedules at the station rather than relying solely on online information.
As the clock struck 5, we hopped on a three-wheeled taxi to the air-conditioned station. We quickly grabbed a bite to hold us over before our journey. The eatery, located near the station, served rice porridge and fried eggs. It was situated opposite a 7-Eleven, but I can't recall its name.
At 6 a.m., the van departs for Udon Thani, arriving at the Udon Thani Bus Terminal around 8 a.m. Upon entering the ticket sales room, you will see the following. Then turn right.
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After turning the corner, we saw the ticket office. We sat down and waited to buy our tickets.
This is the bus schedule from Udon Thani to Vang Vieng. There is only one bus per day, departing at 8:30 AM, as we were worried about not making it on time.
After taking a picture of the bus schedule, my eyes caught sight of a sign that read "This counter is out of service." The familiar thought popped into my head again, "Oh no, here we go." I looked up at the sign above, but being a stranger in a foreign land and pressed for time, I felt a sense of urgency as I rushed to find the orange building mentioned on the sign.
Found it! The orange building. From what you said, it felt like the building was far away, but it's not that far, haha. It's right at the exit of the ticket office. If you look to the left, you'll see it right away. So what do we do next... go buy it! Quick, let's run!
After purchasing a bus ticket for 320 baht, I sat down to wait for the bus at gate 14. I felt a huge sense of relief after getting the ticket, as I had been worried I wouldn't be able to go. While waiting, I noticed people with backpacks, cameras, and bags of snacks sitting in the same area. It became clear that these were my fellow travelers. There weren't many people today, just 3-4 small groups.
During the journey, the bus staff will distribute entry and exit cards for both Thailand and Laos. Please fill them out in advance to save time when you reach the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. The pen provided is for this purpose. **Remember to keep both stubs of the cards for your return to Thailand. Do not lose them.**
At approximately 10:00 AM, you will arrive at the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge. Proceed to the large glass room for passport inspection. Follow the crowd, and don't forget to bring your exit card.
Upon entering, staff will direct you to the automated passport control machines. These machines are convenient, fast, and easy to use. Don't worry about getting confused, as staff will be available to assist you. However, we have summarized the steps for your convenience.
2. Scan the barcode on the exit card, and the door will open.
3. Stand in the designated position and look directly at the camera.
4. Scan your left index finger to unlock the door.
6. Run to the waiting car.
And then we crossed over to the Lao side.
Upon arrival at the Laotian border checkpoint, you will need to disembark and pay the border crossing fee. The payment booth is located a short distance from the vehicle. You will see a long queue upon disembarking, so please join the line. Be sure to have 55 Baht (Saturday-Sunday) and your passport ready. After paying the fee, you will receive a one-way ticket.
Walk a little further and you will find a money exchange booth where you can buy a SIM card with internet access. You can also exchange money in Vang Vieng town, where there are many exchange booths available. However, we exchanged all our money at the airport (4,000 baht) because we didn't know any better. We didn't buy a SIM card because we thought the Wi-Fi at our accommodation would be sufficient.
The journey began around 11 am, embarking on a long drive towards the rest stop. As a notorious sleepyhead, I didn't waste any time. Within 10 minutes of the car's departure, I was fast asleep.
Mission sleep complete! We woke up at 1 pm just as we arrived at the rest stop. We stopped at the Saiyo restaurant and had 30 minutes to rest.
One tip for travelers is to bring snacks in bulk, as food and snacks in Vang Vieng are relatively expensive. This is likely due to transportation costs and the city's status as a tourist destination.
After a hearty meal, we continued our journey by car. The road ahead was mountainous, narrow, and not very comfortable for sleeping. Even though I am someone who can fall asleep anywhere, I found myself dozing off and waking up every half hour. Along the way, we passed through villages and mountains, and finally arrived in Vang Vieng around 3:30 PM.
While waiting for the bus to depart, you can purchase your return ticket to avoid the crowds on the day of your return. You can also inform the ticket seller of your accommodation upon purchase. On your return date, a vehicle will conveniently pick you up directly from your accommodation. However, if you haven't booked your accommodation yet, you can use your receipt to confirm your location with the accommodation provider, who will then inform the transportation service. On your return date, the vehicle will pick you up from your accommodation.
The bus that will take us to the city center looks like this. The distance to the city center is not very far, about 1 kilometer. It's free to ride! The bus will only stop at one place, which is in front of the Malany Villa Hotel. If you don't know the way, you can open Google Maps and search for the accommodation. But my friend and I walked around looking for accommodation. At that time, we only thought that the balcony view must be on the Song River side where we could see the mountains.
The hilly terrain of Vang Vieng's town center makes walking a tiring experience, causing leg and back pain. As a result, we only visited a few locations, ultimately settling on Popular View. Situated amidst convenience stores, restaurants, and cafes, it also serves as the starting point for the bridge leading to the other side of the river. Therefore, we opted for this location. However, for those who enjoy walking and seeking lower prices, exploring the area on foot is recommended. Bargaining skills can further reduce costs.
To the left, a path leads down to a bridge crossing to the other side, where there is a papaya salad restaurant by the Song River.
As you descend the path, you will encounter a bridge. However, it is not advisable to rest or dangle your legs over the edge, as motorcycles frequently pass by. If you can sit without fear of falling, I commend you.
Returning to our accommodation, the price was 500 baht per night. The room itself was acceptable, with a balcony offering a view of the Song River. However, the room's location was somewhat inconvenient, as the Wi-Fi signal did not reach it. To access the internet, we had to sit on the stairs, where we were promptly bitten by mosquitoes.
The room had some minor issues, such as a fan that only worked on one setting and an air conditioner that didn't cool very well. The balcony door was stuck, but the accommodation thoughtfully provided a latch on the window, allowing us to enter and exit as easily as through a door. Despite these inconveniences, the view was beautiful, and the atmosphere was pleasant.
Opening the central window reveals the Song River and the mountains. When what I had imagined came true, it was an indescribable feeling. I wanted to shout my love for him as loud as I could, like when I release my worries into the sea. But... I can't do that. The people building the building in front would think I'm crazy. I'll just keep my feelings and happiness in my heart and memories.
"Just seeing him makes me happy."
At 5 pm, my friends and I went for a walk on the bridge and in the city center. There are many companies offering tours here, and you can easily find one that suits your needs. Money exchange services are available at every minimart, and roti, bread, juice shops are on every street corner. There are also shops renting motorbikes and bicycles.
We are very fond of the local buses here. They are charmingly plump and their wheels tell a story of resilience, having weathered rain, wind, sun, red mud, and stagnant water. While strolling through the city, we are constantly greeted by vendors with a friendly "sabaidee." Our response is a smile, although we secretly wish to reply, "Not so well, my back and legs are aching!"
After a short walk, our stomachs started to growl. We searched for a restaurant for a long time and finally settled on a local eatery. After browsing the menu for a while, we decided on Thai-style chicken fried rice. The taste was decent, but it was a bit oily. It cost 20,000 kip, but we still weren't full. Then, the rain started pouring, so our first day ended with just a walk and no sightseeing.
Day Two
The plan was to wake up early and watch the mist, go for a walk and enjoy the morning atmosphere. But in reality, I woke up at 10 am. Oh my god! However, the mist and clouds on the balcony still covered the sky. Some groups of mist floated in front of the mountains, while others were behind the mountains. It looked beautiful and inviting. The actual photos I took were not as bright as this because they were backlit. I edited this photo to make it brighter.
After showering and getting dressed, we went downstairs to find something to eat. Oh, the accommodation didn't provide breakfast, only coffee and two bunches of bananas. So, my friend and I bought roti, which the locals call pancakes. Accustomed to eating roti in Thailand, where one piece is enough to fill you up, we each ordered one piece. We ordered Nutella and banana, but the roti here was huge! We couldn't finish it and had to wrap it up in a box to eat later in the day.
Half a day passed before we could even think about sightseeing. After filling our bellies with roti, my friends and I rented bicycles to cycle to Tham Chang Cave. The rental fee was around 30 baht per person, and we had to leave our ID cards as a deposit. We were instructed to return the bikes before 6 pm and were provided with a map. However, the map was confusing, so we ended up navigating by instinct.
The distance from the city center to Tham Jang Cave is approximately 2 kilometers. To get there, start at the Y-junction near Vang Vieng Paradise Hotel and turn left. Continue straight ahead, and you will pass a hospital and a school. While cycling, my friend remarked, "I've been feeling like cars are constantly driving towards our bikes. Turns out... we're cycling in the wrong lane!" Even though we are close neighbors, there are some cultural differences. When driving here, keep to the right lane going and the left lane coming back, as the steering wheel is on the left side of the car. If you go, pay close attention and don't be as clueless as my friend and I!
After cycling for a while, you will come across the landmark of the route to Tham Chang, which is the twin coconut tree. If you see this tree, it means you are on the right track.
Continue riding until you see the sign for Vang Vieng Resort, then turn right. The road in this alley is a bit like the path to the moon, with potholes and puddles. If you want to have some fun, try saying "ahhhh" and your voice will turn into "ah ah ah ah ah" with a bouncing rhythm all the way.
Upon reaching the entrance of Vang Vieng Resort, a 3,000 kip entrance fee is required. Continue cycling a short distance to the orange bridge, where you can park your bicycle and proceed on foot.
At the end of the bridge, there are shops selling grilled bananas, fruits, and coconut pancakes. A little further on, there is a restaurant called Tham Chang serving local cuisine.
As you walk straight ahead, look up at the sky. You'll see mountains and trees, and you'll feel like you've stumbled onto a film set by Chalong Pakdeevijit. It's a scene of mountains and forests with birds flying overhead, and a peaceful atmosphere. At the same time, you'll hear the sound of running water. Yes, there's a small waterfall just before the entrance to the cave. The water is crystal clear, with a blue-green hue, and there's a bridge for you to walk on.
After enjoying the refreshing waterfall until dusk, we headed to the cave. The entrance fee was around 60 baht. The stairs leading up to the cave didn't seem too high at first glance. However, each step was surprisingly high, reaching from our ankles to our knees. While the actual height might not have been significant, our short legs made the climb quite challenging.
Upon entering the cave, you will be greeted by a chilling sensation that permeates the air. The temperature drops significantly, surpassing the coolness of your hotel's air conditioning. The sudden change in temperature may leave you yearning for the warmth of a cozy blanket and pillow.
This is my first time entering a cave. We may not have the artistic mind to see the stalactites and stalagmites as different shapes. We think that this natural state is beautiful, but sometimes it can be scary.
At the end of the path, there is a viewpoint offering stunning vistas of mountains, trees, and clouds.
After descending the stairs, you will find a pavilion with a Buddha statue where you can pay your respects and even try your luck with the fortune sticks. We left the cave around 3 pm and considered our next destination. However, we were concerned about returning the bicycles on time if we ventured too far. Therefore, we cycled back to the city center and relaxed at a coffee shop called Offbeat, located in the Y-shaped alley opposite Luang Prabang Bakery.
The interior of the restaurant is decorated in shades of brown and black. The walls are made of red brick, and there are wooden tables in a reddish-brown hue. A red brick wall displays clocks showing the time in major cities around the world.
The left wall section provides a designated space for visitors to express their creativity through writing or drawing. A variety of colored chalks are available for spontaneous expression, while those with chalk allergies can opt for crayons and pin their artwork to the wooden frame on the wall. This interactive feature adds a charming touch to the environment.
We ordered an iced green tea for 23,000 kip. It was a matcha green tea. As soon as I took a sip, the matcha powder floated in my mouth, passing over my taste buds. I had to make a face because it was so bitter, even though I had stirred it well beforehand. The taste wasn't really to my liking, but it was enough to quench my thirst. Maybe it's because I don't usually like to drink matcha green tea.
We spent the afternoon leisurely exploring the area. As dusk approached, we returned the bicycles and settled down for a riverside dinner at the Song River. Our meal consisted of papaya salad, spicy catfish soup, and freshly fried chicken. The papaya salad was flavorful but a tad too spicy for our palates. The catfish soup was bursting with authentic flavors, and the chicken, cooked to order, was crispy and delicious.
The Song River offers a picturesque setting, especially in the evenings when long boats cruise along the waterfront, offering scenic tours. As we sat by the riverbank, we enjoyed the leisurely pace, watching the passing boats and waving to the occasional tourist who greeted us with a friendly gesture. The shallow water, barely reaching our ankles, allowed for a comfortable stroll and photo opportunities along the river's edge.
While we were enjoying our meal, a strong gust of wind suddenly blew in, carrying dust with it. The dust covered our food like black pepper, but we didn't stop eating. We continued our meal amidst the strong wind because we didn't want to waste the money we had spent. After we were full, we went to a tour company to book a one-day trip for the next day. There were many companies to choose from, but we considered the location, the atmosphere of the tour office, and the reliability, safety, and value for money. In the end, we bought a tour from Wonderful Tour for 160,000 kip. If our accommodation was far away, a car would pick us up in the morning. However, since we were close by, we told them to wait for us around 8:30 am.
The rain was heavier tonight than last night. From my two days here, I've learned that the weather in Vang Vieng is typically hot during the day and rainy at night, with varying intensity. That night, we prayed that the river wouldn't be murky the next day, as we longed to paddle in the crystal-clear water and refresh our lungs.
Day Three
Due to yesterday's incident of oversleeping and missing the morning mist, we set an alarm clock for 5:00 AM last night to wake up early. We did wake up at 5:00 AM, took pictures of the mist, and went back to sleep. We woke up again at 6:00 AM, took more pictures of the mist, and went back to sleep. We woke up again at 2:00 AM but didn't go back to sleep because we were afraid of being late for our one-day trip. Haha! Around 8:40 AM, my friend and I walked to the tour company and waited.
One-day trip plan: Kayaking, cave tubing, lunch, kayaking to the Blue Lagoon.
**I want to tell everyone that you can bring sunscreen and small items because the company provides waterproof bags for your belongings.** However, I didn't know this, so I didn't bring anything except my phone in a waterproof case. I'm ready to get even tanner! Haha!
As we waited for the bus to depart, my friend and I jokingly wished for a handsome tour guide. However, our wish went unfulfilled. At the appointed time, we boarded the same type of bus, but this time it belonged to the tour company. After a short journey, the bus stopped to pick up other tourists. In total, there were 11 tourists on the bus: 2 Thais (my friend and I), 1 Chinese, 2 Westerners, 3 Koreans, and 3 Taiwanese.
The image below shows the path leading to the starting point for releasing the kayak. It is not a long distance, but walking there might not be feasible.
**
Upon reaching the boat launch point, the guide provided instructions on paddling techniques, safety regulations, and general guidelines. Participants were then assigned to individual boats, with men paired with women. In cases where there were an uneven number of participants, women were paired with the guide. As my friend and I were not a couple, we were assigned to separate boats. I did not take any photos at the starting point, as our phones were securely stored in waterproof bags.
Our concerns from last night proved true. The water is very murky, not clear at all, and has a brownish-yellow hue. But it's alright, we're already here, and we can still paddle in this color of water. The paddling route is not very deep, with layers of rocks to keep things exciting. It's quite enjoyable.
Paddling a kayak alone can be a bit boring, but the highlight of the trip was the conversation with the guide and the other tourists. Since Thai and Lao languages are similar, it was easy to communicate. We asked the guide questions throughout the journey. (Oh, the guide was very friendly! At first, we wanted to call him "uncle," but we thought it was not appropriate, so we called him "nong" instead. For a safe journey, we entrusted our lives to him on the boat, haha!) While paddling, we asked the guide if the water at the Blue Lagoon would be cloudy. He said, "It will be cloudy like this." So, we prepared ourselves for the possibility that the Blue Lagoon wouldn't be enjoyable. We were a little disappointed. The kayaking route followed the Song River for about two hours under the scorching sun.
After paddling for a while, we stopped for a break. We were finally allowed to take pictures here, as the guide had forbidden it during the journey for fear of our phones falling into the water. This is the picture we managed to capture: the guide removing water from the boat.
Behind is Khao Phala.
After a 10-minute break, the long paddle continues to the Wonderful Tour company's rest stop. This location offers ziplining, cave tubing, and lunch. Restrooms, a concession stand, seating, and hammocks are available for relaxation while waiting for the tour group to complete their ziplining activities, which typically takes around 20 minutes. The guide ensures that all tour members have lunch together.
This is a view of the Song River from the balcony that extends in front of the water shop.
After the zipline adventure, it was time for lunch. The meal consisted of fried rice, two barbecue skewers (we only took one), a large piece of bread, and fruit. The fried rice was delicious, surpassing the quality of the fried rice we had at a local restaurant on our first day. The barbecue was also excellent, with the sweet pineapple perfectly complementing the savory barbecue sauce. While we ate, our fellow travelers chatted away in a language we couldn't understand. We simply smiled and chuckled in response, despite the communication barrier. Despite the language barrier, we thoroughly enjoyed our one-day trip.
After a satisfying lunch, we embarked on a 20-minute boat ride. Our destination was within the city limits, just beyond the bridge near our accommodation. Upon arrival, a tour company vehicle awaited to transport us to the Blue Lagoon. The route to the Blue Lagoon involved crossing a bridge, which typically incurs a fee; however, our tour package covered this expense. The journey was relatively long, offering scenic views of mountains, rolling hills, and meadows along the way.
Upon arrival, you will see that the parking lot is full.
The first moment I saw the Blue Lagoon, I exclaimed to myself, "Wow, the water isn't cloudy!" I was so relieved because I had been worried that it would be murky due to the heavy rain the previous night. However, the water was crystal clear, with a beautiful blue-green hue, just like in the pictures I had seen. The Blue Lagoon is a small pool with inflatable rings and life jackets available for rent. There is a bridge that divides the lagoon into two sections. The more popular side is the one with trees from which people can jump into the water.
The other side of the bridge features a small slide and large inflatable balls for people to play on. This side was much less crowded, almost like a different place altogether. My friend and I decided to play in the water on this side first, as neither of us are strong swimmers. Even with life jackets, we were still a bit apprehensive. The water was freezing, so much so that our lips were trembling. While we were playing, we encountered a group of nearly 10 Thai people who seemed to be having a lot of fun. We greeted them, as we do with fellow countrymen, and they invited us to swim under the bridge to the other side. However, as I mentioned, I am not a good swimmer, so I could only kick my legs and let the current carry me. Once I reached the other side, I was unable to reach the rope and watch the others jump from the trees as before.
After a short swim, we felt exhausted and drained from the sun and paddling all day, so we climbed out of the water and sat down on the car.
Upon returning, the car will take us directly to our accommodation. This trip was truly an unforgettable experience, filled with adventure, kayaking, and cultural immersion. We promised ourselves that we would return if the opportunity arose, as there is still so much to explore. Numerous destinations remain unvisited, including hot air ballooning, mountain climbing, and exploring the Hmong villages. The possibilities are endless.
This trip has made us more courageous to travel. It was a trip that our family disapproved of, but we were stubborn. We couldn't let it fall through after coming this far. Tonight, my friends and I sat by the Song River, across from the papaya salad shop. We didn't play with our phones, but talked about our trip. The impression we had wasn't just for us, our friends felt the same way. The people, culture, nature, adventure, and journey here made this trip more enjoyable than our previous trips during the semester break.
The fourth day marked our departure, and we had to say goodbye. I am grateful for the joy he brought me throughout our four days and three nights together.
"Missing him already."
"Hoping to see you again."
"Vang Vieng, my love."
Ruedeedow
Tuesday, October 8, 2024 11:18 AM