Alone in Muang Ngoi: Memories of Muang Ngoi

**Day 2 - December 9, 2016**

: Happiness, memories, endless. :

Waking up this morning, I felt a sense of emptiness. Lying in bed in the early hours of the morning, at 5 am, I contemplated what I would do with the remaining time. I realize that my time here is truly limited.

5:30 AM. Wake up to prepare for the morning alms offering. Living in Bangkok, we rarely have the opportunity to make merit by offering food to monks. Our lives are caught in a daily cycle...

The night before returning to my accommodation, I asked the staff at the restaurant what I needed to buy for the morning alms offering. They kindly offered to prepare everything for me and told me to come back to the restaurant in the morning to wait for the monks.

It was still dark when I walked out, so I walked with a flashlight until I reached the shop. I sat there enjoying the cold until two dogs came and sat with me as if they were afraid I would be lonely. But I wasn't lonely, it was just really, really cold.

In the early hours of the morning, while it was still dark, everyone was already awake. They were getting ready to go out to the fields to work, some were preparing food, and others were stretching to warm up in the cold. The uncles and aunties greeted us with smiles, even though they didn't know we were Thai. We greeted everyone we met with a friendly "Sabaidee".

This little white dog has been awake and keeping me company since before dawn.

While waiting for the alms offering, I took a stroll through the narrow alleys, where I discovered several peaceful guesthouses tucked away. They looked so inviting that I decided to stay in this area on my next visit.

The accommodation is amazing. The front of the house faces the U River, and the morning mist is so beautiful.

Walking back to the main road in the village, the air was hazy and extremely cold, but it was exhilarating. Everyone seemed to have a lively smile on their faces as they went about their day. If it were winter in Bangkok, I wouldn't even want to get out of bed. But the cold weather in this remote town makes every day seem meaningful and full of joy...

The restaurant where I had dinner last night, I came back to have breakfast here again this morning (it's delicious).

Many people are waiting to offer food to monks, while many others are heading out to work.

The resonant sound of the temple bell echoed, signaling the monks' departure for alms. As we prepared our offerings, Kimchi, the young man, emerged from his lodgings. He greeted us with a surprised expression, "You're offering alms?" (again). We chuckled and replied, "Yes, we are Buddhists. We offer alms." He nodded in understanding, seemingly recalling, "Ah, you're Thai..."

The sticky rice in the alms bowl for this morning's offering costs around 40 baht.

As we were rushing to offer alms to the monks, the young Korean man said, "Give me the camera, I'll take a picture for you." At that moment, we handed it to him because we were afraid of not making it in time for the monks. Looking back at the young Korean man occasionally (because we were worried about the camera, haha), we saw him taking pictures with both our camera and his mobile phone. And on this early morning, there were no foreigners around, only Thai Karen people and the sharp-faced young man from the land of kimchi who were awake so early...

Thanks to the handsome Kimchi for taking so many beautiful photos (actually there are more than this, lol)

Following the local custom, we molded sticky rice and poured water onto the ground as offerings. Initially, we intended to perform the water pouring ritual according to our Thai tradition, which involves pouring water into a container and then pouring it at the base of a large tree. However, upon arriving here, we decided to adapt to the local practice of pouring water directly onto the ground, accompanied by the recitation of blessings.

After offering alms, the villagers immediately poured water onto the ground.

After offering alms, we thanked the young man for taking our picture. We then noticed him talking to a fellow countryman who was also visiting the area. We decided to leave them to it and sat down by the U River near the pier.

A dog shivering from the cold, curled up in a ball.

The beauty of this place is beyond description. It makes this morning so much more special than any other. I came here alone, not to find answers or search for meaning, because I've known myself since I was a child. I found myself, what I like, what I want... but I came here because I wanted to be alone in a place where no one knows me. In a new world, a new place I've never been before. I want to see the sights, the atmosphere, the beauty of new places. I want to stand quietly alone, smile at the happiness I've found, talk to myself... just to listen to the sounds of nature more deeply than before...

Setting up the camera for a solo shot. ^^

The water surface was shrouded in mist, and the mountains throughout the valley were filled with mist, as if we were standing in a dream. The silence, the stillness, the coldness, were slowly moving past us as well. I wish I could stop time right now…

In the mornings, local residents from the surrounding area gather at the market in Mueang Ngoi. They arrive by boat, bringing with them fresh vegetables and fruits, likely grown in their own gardens. This small market serves as a place for bartering and exchanging goods.

Children are going to school.

Should the dam be built, the town of Ngoi would be submerged, leaving only memories, submerged ruins, and photographs as reminders. The residents would likely feel a deeper sense of loss than outsiders, as this town represents their entire lives.

As the time to leave drew near, I steeled myself and walked away, heading into the village to find breakfast. By now, my brother would have already set up his shop.

The morning market here is a place where people barter and trade. There are no fees for setting up a stall, and the atmosphere is one of community and exchange. People buy and sell goods, and the overall feeling is one of contentment and simplicity. This is a way of life that is found in remote areas, and it is a reminder of the simple pleasures that can be found in life.

However, the restaurant is still under preparation, and the ingredients are not yet ready. So we took a quick walk to the temple to see the temple in Mueang Ngoi.

A very chill and enjoyable restaurant to eat at.

A young girl with wide eyes caught my attention as I walked to the temple. She was inside her house, and when she saw me passing by, she rushed to the fence and held on. I smiled at her and asked if she wanted to take a picture. Without hesitation, she raised two fingers in a victory sign. She seemed to know what to do! A future model, perhaps. ^^

: Wat Okat Saiyaram, Mueang Ngoi :

The temple is a landmark of the Ngoi district and the only one within the city limits. Situated close to the village, it fosters a strong connection with the local community. The temple houses the revered "Phra Khong," a significant Buddha statue considered a guardian deity of the city. Enshrined within the main hall of Wat Okat Saiyaram, this sacred figure embodies the cultural and spiritual heritage of the Ngoi people.

The temple is peaceful and quiet. It's the first time I've seen a cat in Ngoi. I thought there weren't any cats here, only dogs running around the village. Haha!

After spending a considerable amount of time exploring the temple, I decided to make the most of my remaining time before departing at nine in the morning. Hunger pangs reminded me of breakfast, and I figured my brother would have already set up the shop by then. So, I decided to head back for a bite before boarding the boat. I also realized I hadn't purchased my ticket yet, assuming they would be available for sale at the pier.

Standing at the temple gate, the temple and the houses are connected.

Exiting the temple, I headed straight to my brother's shop. I had been wandering around aimlessly for so long that the foreigners were already preparing to board their boat for their return trip. I hadn't eaten yet, and my bags were still unpacked. I felt like I had to make the most of my remaining time.

The owner's shop is now fully set up and ready to take orders! Let's go!

This morning's breakfast was a delicious Noodle Soup with Pork and a hot coffee.

After satisfying my hunger, I bid farewell to the vendor and purchased a pastry that initially appeared unappetizing. However, its true deliciousness was revealed upon tasting, as evidenced by the numerous Westerners who had also stopped to buy it. I decided to try it myself, anticipating the need for provisions during the multi-hour journey back to Luang Prabang. During this trip, there would be no designated stops for meals or bathroom breaks. If nature called urgently, the driver could pull over, but the only available restrooms would be in the wilderness, requiring a dash into the forest to find a suitable spot. 555...

This is a snack that goes well with tea, coffee, or Ovaltine. It is made from bananas, sweet potatoes, and taro that are coated in batter and deep-fried. It also includes pancakes, which I must say are very delicious! I will definitely go back to this shop next time. We ended up buying almost ten pieces of pancakes and fried bananas and sweet potatoes to snack on during our one-night stay in Luang Prabang before returning to Thailand.

On the way back to the accommodation, there are handicraft activities such as weaving skirts and fabrics for sale and for interested tourists to learn.

Before leaving the community, I wanted to capture the atmosphere. I felt a deep sense of sadness as I had to return to Luang Prabang. We said goodbye to the young man at his restaurant, as we didn't expect him to see us off. He was a little surprised to hear that we were leaving that day. We said our goodbyes at the shop.

A young woman from the city of Ngoi shares her morning cheer.^^

After checking out of our accommodation in the morning, we stored our luggage and returned the key. We then walked with our backpacks to the queue to buy our return boat tickets, which cost the same as the outward journey.

• The return boat ticket to Nong Khiaw cost 25,000 kip (100 baht).

Our accommodation "NING NING GUEST HOUSE"

Join the queue to buy tickets for the boat back to Nong Khieo.

The mist on the water has now disappeared.

Tickets purchased, we lugged our bags and sat waiting for the boarding call at the pier's stairs. This morning, many people were returning from their trips, making the pier quite crowded. We couldn't tell how long they had stayed, but it could have been more than a day. The pier was now filled with foreigners and some locals who were running errands in Nong Khiaw.

While waiting for the boat to return.

Taking a deep breath, I felt a pang of sadness, the reason for which I couldn't quite grasp. As I sat waiting for the boat, snapping selfies to pass the time, I felt a tap on my shoulder. "I startled you a bit," said the young man standing behind me, "I'm Kimchi." (Again, haha!) He held out his hand and asked, "Let me take a picture of you." (Oh, I felt a little shy.) I was embarrassed because he was taking my picture in front of so many people; I was worried they'd think I was obsessed with the camera. (Haha!)

The photo is a bit shy, the ultimate pose when I can't think of a pose, just give two fingers. 555

She thanked me and said she would take me to the boat. I didn't know what to say, so I just smiled silently. She was quiet for a while, as if she was thinking about something. I asked her, "Aren't you going back?" She shook her head. I asked her, "How many more days will you be here? Where will you go next?" (Why did I have to sound so sad?) She said, "I don't know how many days I'll be here, and I don't know where I'll go next." (The young man lowered his head sadly.) At that moment, we were both silent. We didn't know what to say. It felt strange to be saying goodbye to someone whose name I didn't even know. ...

*** There is only one morning departure from Muang Ngoi, which is around 9:00 AM. ****

The morning boat was overloaded, so we had to split into two groups. As I said goodbye to her, she said, "Bye! Take care of yourself. You're so brave to come here alone!" (She gave me a thumbs up and a smile.) We waved to each other again, and I went down to sit in the boat. The Korean guy followed me to the edge of the boat and stood there smiling at me.

Perhaps our journeys unexpectedly bring us friendships…

Why are my eyes welling up with tears now...?

As the boat departed from the pier, young Kimchi walked up from the pontoon and stood watching us from above. It was the only picture taken on camera. I would like to express my sincere gratitude for his kindness and friendship. He was always there to help, to talk to, and to travel with. And his concern... another thing that impressed me was the night he invited us to watch the stars. 555

The ship sailed away from the shore, but the young man still stood watching until it disappeared from sight. We were both watching, and when the ship was gone, I don't know why, but I secretly wiped away tears that suddenly welled up in my eyes. (What was there to be so emotional about?) As I sat there thinking, I wondered if I had missed or lost something during that time.

"Once the river flows, it cannot return."

Like the passing of time, leaving only good memories for each other.

**Please note:** I am unable to translate the provided text as it is empty. Please provide the text you would like me to translate, and I will be happy to assist you.

Along the river's path as the boat sails by.

As the hour-long boat ride slowly passed, I found myself reflecting on the many people I had encountered in my life. Some questions remained unanswered, but others found their resolution in that moment.

"Travel heals the soul."

The encouragement of strangers can have a transformative effect on us. ...

Upon reaching our destination, two mountains served as a landmark signifying our arrival at Nong Khieo. The boat slowly approached the shore, and the sight of the mountains reminded me of Doi Luang Chiang Dao...

Nong Khiao District

Upon disembarking from the boat, small shared taxis await tourists to transport them to Nong Khiao Bus Station. However, most tourists opt to walk to the bus station, resulting in few passengers on the shared taxis. We were among the few passengers, alongside some local residents. Notably, the fare remained the same regardless of the low passenger count.

A selfie with a Vietnamese guy who kept me company on the journey. We chatted all the way, from the songthaew from Nong Khew to the van from Nong Khew to Luang Prabang.

A Vietnamese man, whose name I cannot recall, expressed his deep admiration for the beauty of Thailand's beaches. He shared his desire to visit these shores with his wife, emphasizing their exceptional allure. Recognizing me as a fellow Thai citizen amidst a group of foreigners, he initiated a conversation, despite my limited English proficiency. Our communication relied heavily on nonverbal cues and shared passion for diving.

Waiting for a van at Nong Khieo bus station

The interior of the van was packed like sardines, making it extremely uncomfortable for the large foreigners. Even I found it difficult to stretch my legs due to the limited space. Unfortunately, I was seated at the very back, where the ride was particularly bumpy and shaky. The van kept winding its way up the mountain, which would have been a nightmare for anyone prone to motion sickness.

Before entering Luang Prabang, the driver stopped at a gas station to refuel, allowing everyone to use the restroom. We took out snacks from Muang Ngoi to eat. The Vietnamese young man had nothing to eat, so we shared two pieces with him. At first, he refused, fearing we wouldn't have enough. We assured him we had plenty, and he accepted. In return, the Vietnamese young man offered us two oranges. We took one each, enjoying a friendly exchange of food.

We arrived in Luang Prabang safely at four in the afternoon. Coincidentally, a fellow countryman of Kimchi Guy was on the same bus. He asked where we were staying, and we told him near the National Museum. He said he was going the same way, so we walked together.

Upon learning that I was Thai, he became visibly excited and immediately began expressing his love for Thailand. He described Bangkok as a massive metropolis, a true "Big City." He even mentioned enjoying Pad Kra Pao while walking and asked me to teach him how to order food in Thai, specifically saying, "I would like Pad Kra Pao, please." As I listened to his stories about his annual trips to Thailand, I couldn't believe I had encountered two Koreans with such a deep passion for the country during my solo travels here.

Happiness, memories, endless

U River, Ngoy Town, Lao PDR

09.12.2016

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