“I can't wait to go this month,” I said to my friend as we discussed our upcoming rainy season forest trip. The place I was referring to was Phu Mieng, a mountain known as the "Death of All" in Tonsak Yai National Park, Uttaradit. I was eager to test its notorious difficulty for myself.

Without hesitation, I contacted the park to inquire about the details and costs. After confirming the booking, I gathered my friends and set off on our adventure, leaving the weather to chance.

Previously, the Phumieang area was part of Khlong Tron National Park (abbreviated as Kt.). The park headquarters was located at the entrance to the area. However, Khlong Tron National Park was later merged with Ton Sak Yai Forest Park and renamed Ton Sak Yai National Park (abbreviated as Sy.). The park headquarters was moved to Ton Sak Yai, and the original headquarters at Khlong Tron was converted into a ranger station, Sy.1 (Ton Khanun).

The current access point for visiting Phu Mieng is the ranger station at S.N.1 Ban Ton Khanun, Nam Phai Subdistrict, Nam Pat District. It is no longer necessary to visit the main park headquarters.

It is important to note that the park requires visitors to sleep in tents only, and hammocks are not permitted. This is for safety and orderliness reasons.

(1)

On the day of the trip, at six in the morning, our all-star team of six from Bangkok, Chonburi, and Korat gathered at the Uttaradit Bus Terminal. However, the chartered car that was supposed to pick us up did not arrive as scheduled. After some phone calls, it turned out that there had been a miscommunication, and there was no car to pick us up that day.

With no car to pick me up, I had to travel on my own. The distance was about 120 kilometers. I asked a songthaew at the bus terminal for a fixed price, and they quoted 2,000 baht, which was 500 baht more expensive than the price I had arranged through the national park. However, there was nothing I could do about it.

The songthaew took us to the Ton Khanun Protection Unit, also known as Khlong Tron Waterfall. On the way, we stopped at the Paad Floating Market to stock up on supplies and essentials. This was the last stop for preparation, and we had everything we needed.

Is 2,000 baht expensive? At first, I thought it was expensive, but when I saw the route to the unit, I had to agree to this price. The two-wheeled driver himself had only been here once before and complained that it was not worth it, and that he should have charged 2,500 baht, the same as going to Phu Soi Dao. Of course, we turned a deaf ear to him. We had agreed on this price from the beginning. (Haha…)

To the Protection Unit,

It's 9:30 AM and the area looks great! There are tent sites, bungalows, brand new restrooms, and a multi-purpose building. We are ready to go with six tourists, one officer, and one porter. We're conquering Phu Mieng with the cool slogan "8 hills, 4 cliffs, 13 kilometers." The officer told us we're the third group this season since they reopened for tourism in early July.

Today's route will take us along the entrance path to Khlong Tron Waterfall for 2 kilometers. We will then ascend the mountain through four hills, covering another 6 kilometers, until we reach the campsite called Lan Dong Luk Plab Pa.

The first two kilometers of the trail follow the Khlong Tron Waterfall stream, with a relatively flat and easy path with some gentle slopes. However, the porters noted that this initial section is merely a bonus. Park officials explained that this section was previously accessible by pickup truck all the way to the original headquarters. However, after a major flash flood in 2006, the headquarters building was damaged, and the access road was washed away. As a result, a new headquarters building was constructed outside the park, as seen today.

The water flow in the stream is not very abundant. In many sections, there are piles of scattered rocks. The officials further explained that this is the result of the latest mudslide in 2011, indicating that this area is frequently affected by natural disasters.

After about an hour, we reached a three-way junction. Going straight would lead to Khlong Tron Waterfall, but we turned right to the old headquarters, which is the actual starting point for the climb to Phu Mieng peak. This is the condition of the old park headquarters. It started to rain just as we arrived, so we took the opportunity to rest and prepare ourselves mentally.

11:30 am, we shouldered our backpacks and continued our journey. We started with a gentle slope, walking for about ten minutes before reaching the first hill, the "Neen Yang Cheng" (I apologize for the misspelling on the sign). The name suggests that this is just a warm-up.

The real deal is here, the second hill, the challenging hill, 1.3 kilometers long. Among the 8 hills of Phu Mieng, I think this is one of the two most brutal hills. Fortunately, there are short flat sections alternating with short descents to relax the legs a bit. But in conclusion, it's brutal (lol...)

The uphill path now runs alongside the Huay Sai Waterfall. With the water flowing, everything feels instantly better.



The third hill is steep and challenging, but not as long as the second. Along the way, you will pass by a tall waterfall, which is beautiful even though the water flow is a bit low.


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Around 2:50 pm, the fourth and final hill of the day, a hill soaked with moisture (Professor Ma would probably complain if she saw me write it like this). It was definitely soaked because we climbed steadily along the waterfall, which was refreshing.





There it is, a short walk beyond the cliff face, we found the clearing in the wild persimmon forest where we would pitch our tents for the night. The clearing was spacious enough, with a designated area for a campfire and a stream providing ample water for both drinking and bathing.


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Beware of the little leech, a close companion of the rainy season's humid forests. It's a bloodsucker, after all.


We arrived at the Dong Luk Pla Pa forest clearing at 3:50 PM. We started walking from the unit at 10:15 AM, which means it took us five and a half hours. We walked at a leisurely pace, taking breaks and having lunch. If the team was stronger, they could have walked an hour faster. In conclusion, the first day's walk was not difficult compared to other forest walks.

The camping activities unfolded as expected. We pitched our tents, built a fire, and cooked meals together, creating an unforgettable atmosphere. The staff and vendors were incredibly helpful, assisting us with everything we needed.

In addition, there is a refreshing cold shower. Walk up the stream for about 50 meters and there is a pool where you can relax and soak.

After dinner, we chatted for a while before the rain started pouring down unexpectedly. As the rain began to subside, we all retreated to our tents to rest and recharge for the next day.

(2)

We woke up early and cooked breakfast as usual. Today, we didn't have to rush because the distance remaining was only 4 kilometers. We would reach the second campsite soon. However, today's hike was an uphill climb; the flat and downhill sections from yesterday were gone.

We started around 9:20 am and walked for a while before encountering the sign for the 5th hill, another one of the most challenging hills of the trip. As its name suggests, this hill is a "giant slayer," capable of defeating even the most experienced cyclists.

This steep slope is not only brutal because of its incline, but also because it is infested with leeches. Taking slow steps up the hill, pausing to catch your breath, provides the perfect opportunity for these tiny creatures to find their way onto you.



The fifth hill is a ridge, the first time we emerged from the forest, and the first point with phone signal. True and AIS networks are available, allowing internet access. The staff informed us that if the sky is clear, we will be able to see the peak of Phu Mieng in front of us. Unfortunately, the fog is still thick and we cannot see anything.

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After successfully taking revenge on the slugs, I continued my journey (I'm not exactly a kind-hearted person who would let them go, haha...). On the 6th hill, Dong Krathue, the sky started to clear up a bit, offering a glimpse of the view to cheer me up. Once I reached the top of the hill, the cool air felt much more comfortable than being in the forest.



And the 7th hill, soaring through the air, tired to this point, we must express our congratulations. Because climbing the hill for no more than ten minutes, we will reach the tent site. It means that from the first camp to the second camp, it takes only about two hours.


Our campsite is as you can see, a decent-sized ridge. At this point, the officers and porters will go down two kilometers to fetch water and then climb back up another two kilometers. It's quite a distance, so I won't be able to follow them (laughs...). I guess all I can do is help set up camp, pitch the tents, and boil some instant noodles for lunch, as per our usual routine.



In the afternoon, the sky cleared up, allowing for glimpses of the scenery below. At times, both peaks of the twin Phumeiang mountain were visible.


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Around two in the afternoon, the officers returned with two large water tanks. After a short break, they called us to assemble for the ascent to the summit of Phu Mieng. The weather was gradually clearing, revealing a verdant forest shrouded in mist, a sight that filled our hearts with joy.


The 8th hill, Wihanthan Lam (the sign is misspelled again). The height here is 1,479 meters. We will go up to 1,656 meters, so it's not far anymore. Just as far as you can see.


After passing the 8 hills, we continued to the 4 cliffs. The first cliff, Pha Roeng Rom, happened to be open to the sky.


The second cliff, Pha Daeng, is clearly visible from the camping spot. The mist comes and goes with the wind, and at times it thins out enough to reveal the second peak of Phu Mieng.



The hike to the summit of Phu Mieng offers stunning views of cliffs and rock formations. Each spot is perfect for striking a pose and taking photos. The mist occasionally clears and closes, creating a variety of picturesque scenes.




The third cliff, Pha Chom Moak, rewarded our efforts with a stunning view of the twin peaks of Phu Mieng.


The fourth cliff, the cliff of courage, the last cliff before reaching the summit.



And finally, we arrived at the first peak of Phu Mieng, the conqueror's sign. The ridge here is the border between Uttaradit and Phitsanulok provinces. The officers told us that in the past, it took a whole day to walk here and set up camp. On the second day, they would walk to see the view from another peak and then descend another way. Because of the difficulty at that time, it was the origin of the nickname "Phu Mieng, everyone dies".

However, after the 2011 landslide that forced Phumeuang to close for a significant period, the reopened trail only reaches the first peak and requires a 3-day, 2-night trip. This change has made the hike easier, reducing fatigue for both tourists and porters, who previously faced grueling and potentially life-threatening conditions.

It is understood that the current Phumeuang trip is planned in this way. The past is the past.

However, when we finally reached the summit, the sky was almost completely shrouded in fog. We waited around for a while, hoping it would clear, but as the rain began to fall, we had to make a hasty retreat. We had to settle for whatever photos we had managed to take.

A rapid descent through cliffs 4, 3, and 2, returning to cliff 1, where I encountered something extraordinary. Words fail to describe it, so let the images speak for themselves.

While we were at the summit, it seemed like it was about to pour rain, but when we descended, there was no rain at all. Although the wind was gusting intermittently, it was still better than being drenched by the rain. We cooked and ate our meals, and when it was time, we went to sleep in our respective tents.

(3)

The next morning, the strong wind had cleared away any lingering mist, revealing the two peaks of Phu Mieng (the cliff in front of the first peak is Pha Daeng, or the second cliff). The surrounding views were also clear, but none of us felt like climbing the peak again. (Haha...)

The clearing sky allowed us to see far across the other side, all the way to the Sirikit Dam in the distance. Below the mountain, we could see the small red roofs of Wat Ton Kanun, near the starting point of the ranger unit where we began our hike.

After finishing our meal, packing our belongings, and clearing the tent area, we descended rapidly, passing each slope with ease. The descent was significantly faster than the ascent.

I requested to leave the old office to visit Khlong Tron Waterfall with a guide. There was some water, not very beautiful but refreshing enough.

After that, I headed straight back to the unit, arriving as the last member of the group. I ate some food and drank some cold water to refresh myself, and then took a shower to regain my human cleanliness and dignity.

Our Journey Continues: A Glimpse of the Ancient Giant

While our official trip had concluded, a delightful detour awaited us. The vehicle that transported us to the bus terminal (the same one that was supposed to pick us up on the first day) made an unexpected stop at the park headquarters. There, we encountered a magnificent sight: the world's largest surviving teak tree, estimated to be over a thousand years old. We couldn't resist capturing this awe-inspiring moment with our cameras.

We arrived at Uttaradit Bus Terminal around four in the afternoon. Everyone went their separate ways, just like on the way there. This concludes our trip to Phu Mieng.

The author acknowledges that Phu Mieng is a truly enjoyable forest to hike through. The current hiking schedule is considered to be well-balanced, not overly strenuous, but not a walk in the park either. The nickname "Phu Mieng, where everyone gets injured" may no longer be entirely accurate, but it still takes its toll on hikers.

A Guide to Conquering Phu Mieng: A Rainy Season Adventure

Phu Mieng, a hidden gem in the lush forests of Thailand, beckons adventurers seeking a challenging and rewarding experience. This guide provides essential information for planning your trek to the summit, ensuring a safe and unforgettable journey.

Planning Your Ascent:

  • Reservations: Bookings are open daily, including weekdays and weekends. Due to limited capacity (30 people per day), advance reservations are crucial. Contact the Thung Sak Yai National Park office at 0895100070 or 0640830886 to secure your spot.
  • Duration: The recommended trip duration is 3 days and 2 nights.
  • Cost:
    • Guides: 500 baht per person per day (1,500 baht for the entire trip). An additional guide is required for groups exceeding 10 people.
    • Porters: 600 baht per person per day (1,800 baht for the entire trip). Porters can carry up to 20 kilograms of luggage.
    • Park Fees: 20 baht per person for park entry and 30 baht per person per night for camping.
    • Transportation: Pre-arrange transportation with the park or contact Mr. Piek at 0941659391. Roundtrip costs start at 3,000 baht.

Trail Information:

  • Distance: The trek from the park headquarters to the summit is approximately 13 kilometers, divided into 8 kilometers on the first day and 5 kilometers on the second day.
  • Water Availability: Water is readily available throughout the trek. On the first day, streams provide ample water sources, and a designated water point is available at the campsite. On the second day, guides and porters will ensure water access at the campsite.
  • Mobile Network: True and AIS network coverage is available from the second day's ridge climb onwards.
  • Leeches: Be prepared for leeches, especially near streams and the first day's campsite.

Additional Notes:

  • Camping is mandatory. Hammocks are not permitted.
  • Consider booking transportation in advance.
  • Be aware of the physical demands of the trek.
  • Pack appropriate clothing and gear for the weather conditions.
  • Respect the environment and leave no trace.

Embark on an unforgettable adventure to Phu Mieng, where breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment await.

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#phu mieng#thung sak yai national park#khlong tron waterfall#uttaradit#hiking#mountain ⛰️#thailand#climbing a mountain during the rainy season#thailand
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