Nan 2018: Rice Fields of Nan in Harvest Season

This trip began with a registration for a run in Pua district, the ALTRA TRAIL NAN100, 15 kilometers distance. On Thursday evening after work, I rushed from the office back home in Sai Mai, braving the traffic jam to catch a bus at the Nakhon Chai Air bus station, Vibhavadi 19 Soi. We arrived in Nan on Friday morning and rented a songthaew for half a day from the bus station for 600 baht. We told the driver to take us wherever he wanted in the morning and then drop us off at the airport in the afternoon because we had booked a rental car.

The elderly gentleman inquired if we had eaten breakfast, and who could refuse the allure of Vanda Restaurant? It was bustling with both tourists and locals, and we opted for the delectable Khao Soi Gai.

After a hearty meal, my uncle took me to Wat Phra That Khao Noi, which offers panoramic views of the entire city of Nan. I had originally planned to catch the sunrise here, but I missed it. Instead, I enjoyed the morning light.

Oh, you got into a fight with a punk in front of the temple. He was looking for trouble.

The uncle then took me to the other side of the city, to a temple on a hill called Wat Phra That Chae Haeng. He said he wanted to take me to the high places first before going down, haha.

On the day of my visit, the villagers were holding a religious ceremony, possibly a "Tod Pha Pa" merit-making event, accompanied by rhythmic long drum performances.

The cool thing here is that you can remember which shoe rack you used to store your shoes, so you won't have to spend a long time looking for them. However, if your shoes get stolen, it's your own responsibility.

The sacred Phra Borommathat Chae Haeng (Bu Thong Chang Ko), an ancient landmark of Nan province.

After that, we returned to the city and visited Phumin Temple, a well-known landmark in Nan. Visiting Nan without seeing Phumin Temple would feel incomplete.

The most talked-about murals inside the temple are the "Pu Man Ya Man" paintings. These life-size paintings depict a young man and woman in Burmese or Shan attire standing side by side. The man has his hand on the woman's shoulder and is whispering something in her ear. No one knows what he is whispering, but the couple's eyes have a mischievous glint that suggests something romantic. Professor Somjet Wimalakasem, a renowned scholar from Nan, has even composed a romantic poem in the northern dialect to describe Pu Man and Ya Man's whispered words:

“My love for you, I would keep it in the water, but I fear it would be cold.
I would keep it in the open air, but I fear the mist and stars would come down and cover it.
I would keep it in the palace, but I fear the prince would see it and take it away.
So I keep it in my heart, where it will make me laugh and cry when I wake up in the middle of the night...”

Adjacent to the tunnel is a tunnel of trumpet vine trees, located in the Nan National Museum. Nearby, in the Khwang Mueang Nan area, there are also several other temples that are within walking distance of each other.

The Chinese plum soda is the shop's signature drink. In fact, almost every shop in Nan has Chinese plum juice.

Nan has a surprising number of cafes, but this one was a special request from our driver. Work Boxes is a small shop popular with young locals. :) After our half-day tour of downtown Nan, the driver dropped us off at the airport, where we picked up our rental car and headed to Pua District. But...

Before leaving the city, let's have lunch at Huen Hom Restaurant. When we went, the restaurant was full and we had to wait in line. Because there were so many people, the food might be a bit slow, but the taste is delicious, authentic northern Thai food. It's like, "Oh, this is delicious," or maybe it's because I'm hungry.

After that, we headed to Pua and arrived just as it was getting dark.

This morning, we plan to drive a circular route, starting from Pua to Bo Kluea via Doi Phu Kha. For the return trip, we will take the Santisuk route. Our starting point is the PTT gas station in Pua.

The view behind the coffee shop at the gas station is amazing. It's so beautiful that I don't need to go anywhere else to see rice fields. Just looking at it here is enough to make me feel energized for the rest of the day.

Feeling peckish on the way to Doi Phu Kha, I spotted a roadside stall with a pot of curry. Deciding to give it a try, I discovered delicious "khanom jeen nam ngiao" (rice noodles with northern Thai curry). The portion was incredibly generous, with the auntie serving me a mountain of noodles without hesitation. All for just 30 baht! You won't find such a bargain anywhere else.

Along the way, you will encounter fellow runners from the Altra Trail 30, 50, and 100 kilometer races, who started earlier in the morning. Tomorrow, it will be our turn to compete in the 15 kilometer race.

As you drive, your ears may pop, indicating that you are on the right track. The Skywalk at Doi Phu Kha offers a unique experience. Simply park your car, take a walk or sit on the road, snap some photos, and continue your journey.

Judging from the state of each runner, it seems as though they've just fallen from a mountain. I thought to myself, "Will I survive this tomorrow?!"

The Pink Shower Tree stands alone by the roadside. If there were no sign, I wouldn't have known it was there. 55+

A little further down the road, there is a rest stop called Viewpoint 1715 Doi Phu Kha National Park. This is where the air is incredibly fresh and cool, making it arguably the coolest spot in Nan.

The green season in Nan is truly refreshing. However, during the rainy season, it might be more humid. Currently, it is a bit dry.

We have arrived at Bo Kluea District. During the Buddhist Lent period, local residents will not be boiling salt. If you want to see them boiling salt, please check the time before or after the Buddhist Lent period.

Although there was no salt boiling, they were allowed to take pictures of the boiling stove.

This is an 800-year-old ancient salt well. Villagers will draw water from the salt well to boil and make rock salt.

This area boasts a variety of cafes to suit your preferences.

Arriving at another location, Aun Ai Mang, which is both an accommodation and a coffee shop by the Mang River.

The cafe boasts a relaxed atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a cup of coffee or simply lounging.

Here, they show off their coffee-dripping skills right in front of the shop.

In front of the shop is a stream with mountains in the background. You could sit here all day and not get bored.

On the return journey, I took the Bor Kluea-Santisuk route. The views of the rice fields on both sides of the road made us stop the car frequently.

The rice fields are now being harvested by the villagers. The rice stalks are turning golden, contrasting with the green of some fields that are not yet ripe. It's a beautiful sight to behold.

As we approached Santisuk District, we noticed the road was marked with the number three. Even the road was beautiful. Afterwards, we picked up our BIBs for tomorrow's run and checked into Hin Pha Homestay.

Ready to go!

The trail winds through rice fields, into the forest, past communities, and even includes a climb up a waterfall. It's tiring, but also a lot of fun.

In the afternoon, we stopped for lunch at the Mushroom Farm in Baan Huanaam.

Most of the dishes here are made with mushrooms, but the highlight is the mushroom pizza, which is topped with a variety of mushrooms and has a delicious flavor. After that, it rained heavily and continuously. As a result, we had no activities for the rest of the day. For dinner, we ordered a Khantoke set from the homestay because we were too lazy to go out.

This morning, we woke up to a thin layer of fog covering Doi Phu Kha, where we drove across to Bo Kluea yesterday.

Walking around the house, the rice fields are still covered in dew from last night's rain.

After a while, I met a new friend. My friend invited me to walk on the rice paddy bund, but they didn't talk to me at all.

Our house is located about 1 kilometer from Hin Pha Homestay. It costs 2,500 baht per night, which is very affordable for groups. You can book through Hin Pha Homestay. The name of the house is Tawan Mok, which is highly recommended.

After checking out today, we will stop by various attractions on our way back to the city. Wat Phuket is the first place that comes to mind.

The highlight of this temple is the view behind it, which is surrounded by the Doi Phu Kha mountain range and a vast rice field below.

Take a stroll down to the rice paddy and take some photos.

Next to the Tai Lue Coffee Shop is the Lamduan Silk Weaving Shop, where they display their fabrics on a wooden bridge, adding a splash of color to the rice fields.

Rustic coffee at an affordable price, only 30 baht per cup. You won't find it anywhere else.

The surrounding atmosphere of the shop. After that, we headed straight to the city.

Upon arriving in the city, we immediately indulged in a delicious meal at Heuan Pukha, a charming local restaurant with delightful decor.

Among the many delicious dishes on offer, the standout for me was the fried pork ribs with ma-kheua. Ma-kheua is a local herb whose fruit and leaves are used as a flavor enhancer in cooking. It is unique to Nan province and imparts a flavor unlike anything I've ever tasted before. It was absolutely delicious.

After that, we went to Aun Nim's Sweet Treats for dessert. Auntie Nim has moved her shop a bit further away, but it's still as crowded as ever. I recommend the lotus seed ice cream here, it's the best! :)

After enjoying sweet desserts and checking into our accommodation, it was time to explore the local cuisine for dinner at Kad Khwang Nan, conveniently located on the road next to Wat Phumin.

Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, this place is bustling with people looking for souvenirs. You can find a wide variety of gifts here.

The breakfast at Sreenual Lodge Hotel is served in a traditional Thai tiffin carrier with two options: Central Thai cuisine and Northern Thai cuisine. While enjoying your breakfast, you can listen to the local dialect announcements over the loudspeaker, which will make you feel like you are somewhere in the north of Thailand.

After checking out of the hotel and returning the rental car, we were ready to return to Bangkok.

See you again, Nan. :)