Visiting Penang: Reflecting on the First Territorial Loss

The shrill ringing of the telephone pierced the morning silence…

I jolted awake and groggily reached for the phone, only to realize I wasn't in my bedroom back in Thailand.

As the clock on my wrist showed 6:00 AM, the time in Penang, where I was waking up to the early morning wake-up call from the operator at the Royal Bintang Penang Hotel, was already one hour ahead of my watch due to the time zone difference.

I arrived in Penang Island yesterday with my son, at the invitation of Tourism Malaysia Penang and Thailand. We are here to attend the Penang World Music Festival, an international concert event organized by Malaysia on Penang Island, which is only 215 kilometers from our hometown of Hat Yai. This proximity makes travel between the two locations very convenient.

Notably, on Penang Island, even if Thai tourists cannot speak English, they can still travel here with peace of mind. This is because most Penangites understand Thai. Many shops, restaurants, and even some signs are written in Thai, as there is still a large Thai population residing here.

Penang: A Historical Island with Diverse Cultures

Penang Island, like Langkawi, is a duty-free tourist destination in Malaysia, located not far from Phuket, Thailand. Despite its small size, Penang boasts a rich history and diverse cultural tapestry. Chinese, Malay, Hindu, Thai, and Burmese communities have all left their mark on the island, creating a vibrant and multicultural atmosphere. Its proximity to Thailand makes it a popular destination for Thai tourists seeking a unique cultural experience.

This morning, I was sleeping soundly in my room at the Royal Bintang Penang Hotel on Penang Island, a territory that was once part of Thailand. We lost this land when the Sultan of Kedah leased the island to the British in 1786, during the reign of King Rama I.

Francis Light, the illegitimate son of Colonel Negus from Woodbridge, Suffolk, England, established a trading company in Madras, India. During the reign of King Taksin the Great, he traveled to the western coast of the Andaman Sea and settled in Thalang. He built a strong relationship with the Sultan of Kedah, becoming close friends.

During that era, the British lacked a dedicated port in the region. Sultan of Kedah, through Francis Light, presented a proposal to the British East India Company's representative, requesting assistance in expelling the Bugis forces from Kedah's territory. In return, the Sultan offered the territory encompassing Pulau Pinang (Penang Island) as a leased area to the British.

However, the English flatly rejected this offer, leading to the Seven Years' War between England and France, which captured Madras by land and sea. England was then forced to seek a new port, and Francis Light's proposal was reconsidered. The English entrusted Francis Light to negotiate with the Sultan of Kedah, offering an annual rent.

Believing that the British would offer assistance in resisting the invaders of the city of Saiburi, the Sultan agreed to lease the island to the British for an indefinite period. In 1786, Francis Light migrated people to Penang Island, which at that time was still a deserted island with only a few fishing households residing there.

Francis Light's forces transformed the island into a new city. On August 11, 1786, he raised the Union Jack, the British flag, for the first time on Penang Island. He renamed the island "Prince of Wales Island" in honor of the British Crown Prince, one day before his birthday.

After Francis Light took possession of Penang Island, it became clear that England would not assist the city of Kedah in resisting its enemies. This was due to England's policy at the time of not interfering in the politics of any country in the region. Therefore, when Thailand sent an army to subdue Kedah, which had stubbornly refused to submit to its authority, England turned a blind eye. As a result, Kedah fell to Thailand once again. This greatly angered the Sultan of Kedah, who attempted to recapture Penang Island on two occasions, but was unsuccessful.

Ultimately, the Sultan of Kedah was forced to accept a truce with the British on May 1, 1791. The British agreed to pay an annual rent of 6,000 Spanish dollars for Penang Island, down from the previously agreed-upon 10,000 Spanish dollars.

Eight years after pioneering the development of Penang Island, transforming it from a deserted island into a thriving metropolis that generated significant revenue for the country, prompting England to take a serious interest in the region, Francis Light, the Sultan of Kedah's closest confidant, succumbed to malaria on October 21, 1794, at the age of 54.

Six years after the death of Francis Light, the British signed a treaty to lease a portion of the mainland opposite Penang Island. This was done to establish a source of food production, as Penang Island was unable to meet the growing population's needs. The British named this new territory "Province Wellesley," which is the present-day location of the city of Butterworth.

Meanwhile, the British developed the territory on Penang Island, which became the most prosperous and wealthy port city in the Malay Peninsula. They named the new city built as the center of trade on the island, George Town.

Although Penang Island was leased to the British until its return to Malaysia after the country's independence in the mid-20th century, it has always been considered an integral part of Thailand by the Thai people. This sentiment reflects the close historical and cultural ties between the two regions, which have existed for centuries.

And in this feeling, there is a bond that is difficult to separate.

Many Thai descendants have traveled to Penang Island to study. In the past, this island was considered a place where one could master the English language. Descendants who studied in this city were considered to have passed through a good language educational institution, which brought honor to their families.

It appears that in the past, there was a Convent School Penang alumna who was Thai and later became known worldwide as "Miss Universe." This individual is Ms. Apasra Hongsakula.

In the past, the only way to reach Penang Island was by ferry from Butterworth, a mainland town that is part of Penang. Although the Malaysian government has built the world's longest sea bridge, spanning 13.5 kilometers, connecting Penang Island to the mainland, many people still choose to take the ferry. This is because the ferry fare is affordable and offers a scenic view of the bridge, making it a popular tourist attraction.

The ferry service from Penang Island to Butterworth operates 24 hours a day, with a crossing time of approximately 15 minutes. Passengers are charged a per-person fare, while vehicles are charged a flat rate of 8 ringgit for cars, 12 ringgit for vans, and 25 ringgit for buses. The return trip is free. The ferry departs from the jetty on Jalan Jetty in Penang and arrives at Butterworth.

This is not my first trip to Penang Island. I first visited this island over 40 years ago. As a child, after graduating from a boarding school in Phatthalung Province, my parents sent me to study and improve my language skills here. Penang Island is conveniently located near Hat Yai, only a few hours away by train.

Therefore, most parents in the southern region tend to send their children to study here. This is because studying in Penang not only offers affordable tuition fees but also provides an opportunity to learn both English and Chinese languages. This is due to the fact that over 60% of Penang's population is Chinese.

This journey was like a journey back in time, filling in the gaps of my long-forgotten memories. Despite the passage of time, Penang has not changed as much as I expected, especially in Georgetown. The Penang government has preserved the old buildings, making it a cultural city, while modern development has shifted to the other side of the island facing the Indian Ocean.

The old roads we used to wander along on our free evenings after school remain unchanged, narrow and small, with no expansion. However, in stark contrast, numerous new shopping malls and tourist attractions have sprung up in areas that were previously empty and overgrown. Despite these additions, the sense of warmth and familiarity I have for Penang Island remains unaltered.

Upon our arrival, we headed straight to the northeastern shore of the peninsula's tip in Penang. This location marks the spot where Francis Light first set foot on Penang Island and established a coastal fort known as Fort Cornwallis. Today, a small seawall has been constructed in front of the fort, creating a recreational area for Penangites to enjoy the scenic coastal views during the evenings. Notably, the Penang World Music Festival is held on the expansive field adjacent to the fort.

Standing tall at 60 feet behind the adjacent Fort Cornwallis on Jalan Jetty, the magnificent Clock Tower was erected in 1897 by Cheah Chen Eok, a prominent Penang tycoon, as a tribute to Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. This iconic landmark has since become an indispensable tourist destination, attracting visitors from all corners of the globe.

Thank you - Tourism Malaysia.

- Nok Air

• Infinity Plus Trading Co., Ltd.

- FOTOPRO THAILAND provides photography equipment support.

• BMC TRAVEL Kuala Lumpur