Land of the Earth, Home of Khmer Civilization: Angkor Wat - Angkor Thom

The land of ancient Khmer civilization . . . N K R W A T - N K R T H M . . .

Travel

For Thai citizens who wish to travel to Cambodia via the Aranyaprathet border crossing in Sa Kaeo Province, there are two options: by van or public bus, or by private car.

Aranyaprathet - Siem Reap: You can take a bus or hire a taxi for 1200 baht per car.

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat: A Monument to Vishnu's Glory

Angkor Wat, a magnificent temple complex located in Siem Reap, Cambodia, stands as a testament to the unwavering faith of King Suryavarman II in Vishnu (Vaishnavite sect). Widely regarded as the pinnacle of Khmer architecture, Angkor Wat is renowned for its intricate carvings and masterful design. The central temple, perched atop a towering platform, is encircled by three galleries, with the main entrance facing west.

Bangkok

The last capital of the ancient Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom was founded by King Jayavarman VII around the end of the 12th century. Located north of Angkor Wat, the city's center is the Bayon temple, which features over 200 massive four-faced towers. Additionally, there are bas-reliefs depicting scenes of daily life, wars with Champa, and the behavior of Hindu deities.

01

Aranyaprathet - Siem Reap

The rental car we chose for our journey from the Thai border to Siem Reap in Cambodia was a 5-seater sedan. The road was a two-lane asphalt highway, and the scenery on either side resembled the rural areas of our own country, with vast rice fields stretching as far as the eye could see.

The journey took approximately 3 hours, and our driver brought us to Siem Reap. Siem Reap is a relatively small city, with most buildings being newly constructed hotels. Tuk-tuks will be our primary mode of transportation throughout our stay in Siem Reap. With only half a day remaining in the afternoon, we plan to watch the sunset at Tonle Sap Lake.

02

Tonle Sap, the Floating City of Siem Reap

Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, is located about 10 kilometers from Siem Reap. After a short ride on a tuk-tuk from the city, the road turns onto a small red dirt path, winding its way along canals and villages that line the route. Soon, we reach the boat launch, where we board a vessel to explore the life of the Cambodian people who live on Tonle Sap Lake.

After a short boat ride, the sight of houses, temples, and schools built on stilts above the water gradually became clearer. This was an unusual sight for someone accustomed to living on solid ground. As the boat approached the village, the density of houses increased. The wooden houses with zinc roofs were separated by a central waterway used for boat traffic.

Passing through the village, our boatman slowed down and steered towards a floating building. Here, several small rowing boats awaited tourists, offering tours of the natural surroundings. This area featured a large thicket of trees rising above the water, and there were also restrooms, food, and drinks available for visitors.

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As the sun began its descent, casting long shadows across the water, the intensity of its rays softened. Our boat, gliding gently along the river, carried us away from the village. Numerous other vessels, their prows pointed in the same direction, joined us on our journey. Our destination: a breathtaking sunset cruise on the vast expanse of Southeast Asia's largest lake.

As the sun dipped below the horizon at 6:00 PM, casting a rosy glow across the sky, the vast expanse of water shimmered with golden-pink hues. The silence was broken only by the gentle lapping of waves against the hull of our boat. As the engine fell silent, we all sat back and soaked in the tranquil atmosphere. The cans of beer we had brought along from the rest stop added to the relaxed ambiance.

As the clock struck 6:45 PM, the surroundings began to fade into a blurry silhouette. The roar of the motorboat echoed once more as it embarked on its return journey to the village. The cool breeze that caressed my face as we sailed back to shore, coupled with the deepening darkness, created a tranquil moment that washed away the weariness of the day's travels. Tonle Sap Lake may appear as an ordinary place, devoid of the grandeur of Angkor Wat. However, for a salaryman like myself, who yearns for an escape from the concrete jungle, such a simple setting brings immense joy.

03

Pub Street

Siem Reap at night is more vibrant than during the day. Tourists return from the outskirts, some dining, others taking a ride to see the city. Notably, on Pub Street, one of the main entertainment streets in downtown Siem Reap, the entire street is lined with restaurants that double as pubs, packed on both sides. This street has earned its nickname, Pub Street.

Besides the pubs located in large and small shophouses, this street also features a series of small "wave pubs" converted from motorcycles, parked in a long row. Each motorcycle or stall plays different genres of music, including modern and old international music, or even Latin American music. The highlight of these wave pubs is the incredibly affordable cocktails served to tourists, and if you hit it off with the bartender, you might even get an extra drink on the house. This is a must-visit spot for anyone who enjoys socializing.

04

Angkor Wat

As dawn approached, a steady stream of tourists began to gather at Angkor Wat, eager to witness the first rays of sunlight illuminate the magnificent temple complex. Disembarking from our tuk-tuk, we stood poised to encounter the grandeur of Angkor Wat. The surrounding atmosphere remained shrouded in a soft twilight, as the sun had yet to crest the horizon. Despite the early hour, the crowds thronging Angkor Wat were substantial. As we ventured forward, a vast pool of water stretched before us, prompting awe at the sheer scale of human ingenuity. The question lingered: how many laborers were required to construct such a monumental work?

After crossing the bridge, we arrived at the outer gopura. Walking through, we were met with the imposing sight of Angkor Wat, its grandeur shrouded in darkness. We stood in awe for a moment before continuing on to the spot where we would witness the first light of day. A group of excited tourists had already gathered by the pond to the left of the temple.

As the sun rises at 6:00 AM, the sky is painted with hues of pink, casting a soft glow on the majestic silhouette of Angkor Wat. The five towering spires of the temple complex are clearly visible against the dark backdrop, their reflections shimmering on the still water below. This breathtaking scene is a testament to the harmonious blend of nature's artistry and human devotion, a feat accomplished through the tireless efforts of countless individuals.

Angkor Wat, the most enigmatic temple in Angkor Thom, is a complex of temples, mortuaries, and observatories, and is the largest religious structure in the world. What are the mysteries of this temple? Firstly, the temple faces west, while most Khmer temples face east, as the west is believed to be the direction of death. This is the only building in Angkor Thom that does so. In addition, the bas-reliefs, which stretch for over 2 km around the temple's galleries, are arranged in a counter-clockwise order, starting from the northwest gallery. Angkor Wat is both a religious site and a royal mausoleum. The westward orientation of the temple may be a tribute to Vishnu, the guardian deity of King Suryavarman II, a deity associated with the west. Angkor Wat is the only temple in Angkor Thom dedicated to Vishnu (Vaishnavite sect).

Angkor Wat reflects various concepts of iconography, such as replicating the Hindu cosmological system on Earth. The central tower represents Mount Meru, the center of the universe and the abode of Vishnu.

The presence of Vishnu sculptures throughout the temple complex reflects the concept of "pratimavidya," where sculptures transform religious structures into celestial realms according to religious beliefs. These sculptures, particularly the depiction of the "Churning of the Ocean of Milk," which symbolizes Vishnu's creation of the world, highlight the significance of Vishnu in the temple's iconography. The churning process resulted in the emergence of various divine objects from the cosmic ocean.

05

Apsara of the City of Angels

Apsaras: Celestial Dancers of the Hindu Pantheon

The term "Apsara" originates from the Sanskrit word "Ap," meaning "water." This etymology reflects the Apsaras' mythical origin, emerging from the churning of the cosmic ocean during the Samudra Manthana, as described in the Vishnu Purana. This epic event, involving both gods and demons, aimed to obtain the Amrita, the elixir of immortality. The churning yielded numerous wonders, including the celestial nymphs known as Apsaras. These captivating beings ascended to the heavens, becoming renowned for their beauty and enchanting dance performances, bringing joy and entertainment to the divine realm.

The bas-reliefs of Apsaras in various postures are found throughout the gopuras and galleries surrounding the temple, from the outer gallery to the central sanctuary. These Apsaras exhibit diverse attire and hairstyles, leading some to claim that each Apsara at Angkor Wat is unique. The attire of the Apsaras at Angkor Wat represents an evolution influenced by various factors, ultimately becoming a defining characteristic of Angkor Wat art. The draped garments of the Apsaras in the bas-reliefs are beautifully folded and adorned with small floral or checkered patterns, a unique feature not seen in freestanding sculptures until the Bayon period. The artists' skill in seamlessly blending various motifs creates the impression that each Apsara wears a distinct garment.

06

Banteay Srei Temple

At 11:00 a.m., after thoroughly exploring Angkor Wat, we embarked on a journey outside the city to Banteay Srei, approximately 30 kilometers away. The scorching midday heat hit our faces as we rode out of town. The narrow, winding road snaked through numerous small villages. Rice paddies and palm forests alternated along the way. After more than an hour, we arrived at our destination.

The tuk-tuk dropped us off at the side of the road outside the entrance to Banteay Srei temple, which meant we had to walk another 200 meters. A small souvenir market was set up in front of the temple entrance, but none of us were interested in buying souvenirs. The first thing we wanted was a cold soda or a bottle of water to quench our thirst in the midday heat. We then continued walking along the dirt road for a while before we could see the temple itself.

The Banteay Srei temple is the only ancient Khmer temple that was completed upon its construction, unlike other temples that underwent multiple phases of construction. Its most striking feature is the intricate bas-relief carvings adorning the entire structure, crafted from pink sandstone with such exquisite detail and finesse that they appear freshly carved. Due to the scorching heat and the relatively small size of the temple, our visit was brief.

07

Ta Prohm Temple

After visiting Banteay Srei Temple, our next destination was Ta Prohm Temple. This temple is in a state of significant disrepair, but its most striking feature is the way it has been abandoned in the middle of the forest. Trees have grown over the temple, and over time they have spread to cover the entire structure. This creates a unique and somewhat eerie beauty.

Ta Prohm Temple: A Monument to Ancestors and Maternal Devotion

Ta Prohm, meaning "ancestor of Brahma," was constructed by King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century as a dedication to his mother. The temple adheres to the principles of Mahayana Buddhism.

07

Bayon Temple

The journey from Ta Prohm to Bayon Temple was relatively short. Unlike other temples, Bayon lacked its own walls, instead relying on the city walls of Angkor Thom for protection. The temple is characterized by its central tower adorned with over two hundred massive faces, as well as intricate carvings depicting scenes from daily life, the war with Champa, and the activities of Hindu deities.

08

Siem Reap - Aranyaprathet

We rented a car as usual from Siem Reap to Aranyaprathet border and traveled from the border back home by public van. Since this time we had limited time to visit the religious sites, we are determined that if we have the chance, we will definitely come back here again.

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